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Stainless exhaust flange?

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    Posted: 23 Jan. 2022 at 10:23pm
I started down a path to replace the alternator on the 153 in Shiny. Of course things have snowballed from there as the POs had cobbled together a motor mount that actually passed through the fan belt and trapped the original side bracket for the alternator in place. So I made a plan to use a front mounted alternator bracket and make a new motor mount using the side boss holes on the block. Unfortunately the exhaust is in the way as for some unknown reason it travels forward from the manifold before choking down and doing a U-turn to the rear.
So, if I'm replacing the exhaust, I'd like to use 2" stainless, and I have found quite a few options for 2: stainless tubing kits on line. However I cannot find a 2" two bolt adaptor to the manifold that accepts the donut style gasket.  I can find it in mild steel, and in 2-1/2" or 3" stainless, but not in 2" stainless. The existing manifold takes an old style 2" two bolt flanged donut connection.
Any ideas?


Edited by BD1 - 23 Jan. 2022 at 10:37pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2022 at 10:40pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2022 at 10:48pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2022 at 10:51pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2022 at 10:51pm
The Chevy II manifolds generally sweep the exhaust back down behind the side bosses so your exhaust path sounds unusual. Are you trying to remedy that as part of the "snowball"? I don't know of a source for a stainless doughnut coupler, maybe a Nova, Chevy II or stovebolt specialty parts supplier might have that.

I've only seen one photo of an original Chevy II 153 engine mount and they are a mount/alternator combo bracket. My Mercruiser engine has all fabricated mounts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2022 at 10:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2022 at 9:23am
I’ll be up against these exact same issues when I get to fitting a 2” stainless exhaust system on my D-225.
I estimated that I may need to fabricate my own pipe flaring tool and make some of the flange plates from flat stock.
I did not realize these SS parts are now becoming available.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2022 at 3:05pm
I got JBA tech support on the phone today. They told me “good luck” not a popular enough size to make and keep in stock. He told me to get a competent muffler shop to make the starter pipe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2022 at 4:15pm
What exactly is it up at the manifold ?
2-1/4” ball socket flange with 2” pipe ?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2022 at 6:56pm
It is a 2" exhaust pipe section with a pretty simple flare on the end, about like the flare you'd get on a copper gas line if you only left about half as much length in the die as you need. If I think I have enough parts lined up to go forward, I'll cut it off next weekend and measure it up and take some pics.  I think the die setup to make this piece would be a 4" section of heavy wall tube steel with an ID that was close /+ to the OD of the 2" exhaust tube, and a cone turned onto a 2.5 diameter solid rod that had a 2" 1.90 straight pilot section below the cone. You would drop a 4-3/8" section of the exhaust tube into the heavy walled pipe section, center the cone on top, and press it about 3/8" to make the flare. I don't know if you've ever used a case expander die on a reloading press, but that would be it, sized up to 200 caliber.  Except that as the exhaust tubing is significantly harder than brass, you would need to support the sides of the tube while pressing on the flare to keep it from crumpling, and care would be needed to insure the part didn't get stuck in the die.
If you have a lathe and want to make such a die setup, I'd be willing to bear some of the cost, if we could share the die. If not I may talk to a local machinist who has done some pretty amazing, (although high dollar), things for me in the past.  My WAG on that would be $200 to $300.  A lot of money if the local muffler shop already owns the tooling to do this. I also have a 225 in line for a project, but at an average cost for this thing, (including the flange), of under $30 for a 2.5" one, we would need to make 20 or more of the 2" model to make fabbing up the die seem practical. I will need four of them.


Edited by BD1 - 24 Jan. 2022 at 6:57pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2022 at 8:12pm
You think these would fit ?
eBay # 153968491878

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2022 at 8:26pm
  The original GM flare was kinda like a double, or inverted, flare, but every aftermarket pipe I’ve ever seen was a single flare. There was also an inner sleeve that was slightly bigger on one end that held the “donut” centered in the flare. The single flare seems to work ok but the sleeve is needed. Unless muffler shops have gone the way of radiator shops, it shouldn’t be hard to reproduce the flare (single) and the sleeve. Cry I used to have a 2-peck basket-full of donuts, heat riser gaskets, and sleeves of all sizes. All gone now. I thought I was done with GM. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2022 at 9:05pm
You think these would fit ?
eBay # 153968491878
They are the right size for the pipe, but not close to the manifold.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2022 at 9:25pm
Here’s what I’m up against….
The manifold accepts a 2” o.d. pipe with a single flared end.
No gasket is used and I like that.
The heavy duty pipe flanges seen below clamps it all down tight.
I will reuse the flanges since they are so thick and I can’t find them in stainless.
The flange required does not appear to be a true 45* but it’s  slightly rounded at the manifolds.
I plan to use a very large hammer flare tool with a 1-7/8 shaft diameter to flare the 2” stainless tube.
The large hammer flare is intended for copper tube so I will heat the stainless tube dull red hot before I form the flared ends.



Edited by oldtime - 24 Jan. 2022 at 9:29pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2022 at 10:02pm
check this out:

I think he goes to "flat", but this could work. I'm going to try it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2022 at 10:05pm
That tool looks like just the ticket.  I think if you used a little high pressure grease you could do it cold using a press.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2022 at 10:29pm
Yeah I had also considered pressing a large hitch ball down onto the exhaust tube.
The hammer flare shown on the above pic is one I had. It measures 1-5/8” around the shank and worked perfect for my Willy 134 stainless exhaust needs.
But I just found a larger used one on eBay for less than $40 so I plan to give that a try on the 2” tube.
I think it’s the largest diameter hammer flare made with a 1-7/8” shank.
If it works out your welcome to try it. Hammer or press, either should work.


Edited by oldtime - 24 Jan. 2022 at 10:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2022 at 9:32pm
This is what my starter tube looks like currently
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