Brake light switch |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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Posted: 26 Jan. 2022 at 11:04pm |
I was checking my brake lights tonight and discovered I have none. I'm guessing that the switch has gone bad, again. This will be the third one. I cannot recall where I got the last one and what the part number is. I do know that it was a non-original with male terminals. I would like to just do a swap while I'm under there. Would anyone happen to have a good part number for a replacement?
Thanks, Micah Edit: Looks like I may have answered my own question, some digging came up with ECHSL134 or SLS27T. Anyone able to confirm?
Edited by Steelyard Blues - 26 Jan. 2022 at 11:26pm |
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3043 |
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Micah, Three bad switches? I would look for an intermittent short in the wiring. Possibly a crack in the insulation on a wire that contacts the frame when you hit a bump. Unless you are buying China crap, I suspect that there is a reason that this switch is failing. It is usually caused by pulling too many amps through the switch. The high amperage is almost always caused by a short to ground. Look the wiring over closely, also look at the socket assembly for the brake lights(s). If the puck at the bottom of a socket breaks up due to age or abuse, it can short out there, so remove the bulb(s) & look at that. The turn signal switch, if you have one, usually has the brake light circuit flow through it, so it needs a look see. Let us know what you find please. TIA, Cpt Logger.
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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This is why I changed over to a mechanical brake light switch. Problem solved.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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TMRoper
Member Joined: 23 Aug. 2016 Location: Oklahoma Status: Offline Points: 192 |
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I also used the mechanical switch and haven't looked back, on three jeeps ,always works!
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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There are several previous threads about the mechanical switch conversion. Not only is it more reliable, but it is easy to do and requires no change in the wiring. When I did mine, I just pulled the wires off the old switch and moved them over to the new mechanical switch. Easy Peasy.
Here is one of several threads about it: |
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4186 |
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Several years back I also incurred several bad brake lights switches.
I had just wired the Jeep myself and believed it must be a quality control issue. So I bought up s bunch of NOS brake light switches (Delco Remy and Borg Warner) with zero problems since then. I do have a good used switch in the for sale column but it may not have the posts that you want ???
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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Wow, lots of input on this one.
I may have my switch count off. Upon rethinking it, I believe what is in there now is a replacement of what came with the Jeep when I got her. I don't know where I got the replacement. So, quality is unknown. I made a full harness from scratch with all soldered connections and shrink tube. The wires to the taillights are in the original style asphalt conduit. The running lights work at the lamps and trailer socket. I don't think this is a wiring issue but will check to make sure a wire did not come off the switch. When they failed last time, the switch solved it. I'm assuming it is the same issue. I will just get the Napa replacement before I crawl under. If the switch is not it, I will have a replacement on the shelf. Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1700 |
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I might have to look into a mechanical switch, but I'll try switching the one I currently have and hope for the best, if it fails me Ill transition
Edited by General Eisenhower - 27 Jan. 2022 at 12:09pm |
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4186 |
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Go to eBay and search NOS S193 or S193 switch.
Also Delco Remy 4765. Edited by oldtime - 27 Jan. 2022 at 12:26pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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The only thing with a mechanical switch I have found is that you need to make sure your pedal sealing setup does not prevent the pedal arm from coming full up. As this can leave the brake lights on or delay their activation when the brakes are applied. A good strong pedal return spring is a way to prevent this. Other then that I really like my Mechanical Switch.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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So, I checked the connections, nothing. Jumped the switch, lights. Verdict: Dead switch.
As for power draw, all my bulbs are LED. So, they use almost nothing. I think the switch was just junk. I forgot how much of a treat these are to replace. First you get to fight the heat shield. Then the fun part is getting the switch out. What genius made the switch so that you can get a 1" wrench on it but not a 1" socket? I had to jam some paper in the socket to get it to work. Otherwise, almost impossible to get the wrench in there. I used the Napa ECHSL134. $13 Says it is made in Mexico. Micah
Edited by Steelyard Blues - 27 Jan. 2022 at 7:00pm |
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9652 |
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Hecho en Mejico. That’s the good stuff, these days.
BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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