Starter or solenoid not working? |
Post Reply | Page <123 |
Author | |
TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3396 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Just put a meter on the alternator output and ground. It should read 14.2 v or so if it is working/wired correctly (with engine running).
|
|
BOULDER 48 2A
|
|
ajax25
Member Joined: 28 July 2018 Location: WA Status: Offline Points: 258 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ok finally got a voltage tester. Checked the battery right after taking off the maintainer type charger, it read 13.1 from what you guys have told me that’s low. Then fired up the jeep to test the alternator output it read 12 which you also say is low. Now I’m confused/ worried they are both going bad? I’m going to do some terminal cleaning on the alternator and solenoid just to see if that helps that out a bit. Also, I watched the battery voltage go clear down to 10 while it was running. Any recommendations on a battery for these jeeps? I don’t really want to drop $200 but I do need something that will fire up in often under 32 degree weather when I’m up hunting elk in early Nov
|
|
ajax25
Member Joined: 28 July 2018 Location: WA Status: Offline Points: 258 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hmm ok now with the cables disconnected from the battery it’s reading at 12.5v but when running it dropped clear into the 10’s
|
|
Michaeltru
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Oct. 2012 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 987 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
If you’re close to an autozone or o’reillys get both battery and alternator tested. Good luck
|
|
Mike in AZ
|
|
ajax25
Member Joined: 28 July 2018 Location: WA Status: Offline Points: 258 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Isn’t that what I just did?
|
|
cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3022 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
No, you did not check the battery. Before you take the battery in
for testing make sure it is fully charged. The test for the battery
involves putting a major load on it & watching the voltage drop
after a set time the load is removed & the voltage rechecked. That
final number will tell the story. Since the battery is fairly old &
more importantly, has been subject to deep discharging, it is likely in
need of replacement. As has been said, you need to fix the charging system. Even if you buy a $400.00 battery you will still have this issue. It will fail to start the Jeep when the battery's charge is gone. If you just have to buy a new battery, buy the biggest one that will fit in the battery tray & that has terminals that will work for you. The extra capacity of the bigger battery will come in handy when you choose to install an electric winch in the future. It is also handy for radios. When you decide to replace the charging system, get the one with the highest amp rating that will fit & that you can afford. Again, it will be handy for electric accessories. Edited by cpt logger - 23 June 2022 at 1:19am |
|
ajax25
Member Joined: 28 July 2018 Location: WA Status: Offline Points: 258 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
When you say charging system what do you mean? (Sorry total newbie here trying to learn) do you mean replace the alternator?
|
|
ajax25
Member Joined: 28 July 2018 Location: WA Status: Offline Points: 258 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ok after reading up a bit and watching some you tube videos I think I grasp what your saying. It’s my understanding that the charging system is simply the alternator and the battery in this case right? The battery gives the starter what it needs to crank the engine which in turn then fires up the alternator which powers the jeep and chargers the battery while running. Did I get that right? 😬. So since my battery reads 12.5v while the engine is off, then reads at a lower voltage while running and then returns back to 12.5 once I turn the jeep off that tells me the alternator is not doing its job. I am definitely going to take it down to auto one and see if they can help me determine if my alternator is bad. I also saw on one video that it could simply be a blown fuse causing the alternator not to charge? I’m headed to bed but will have to see if it’s that simple in the morning. Thanks again for all of the help
|
|
cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3022 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The charging system consists of the alternator or generator, it's regulator, & associated wiring. The battery is not usually considered part of the charging system. You got the general idea though. The battery is usually only used for starting & nothing else. The charging system charges the battery & supplies all of the electricity to run the engine & all of the accesaries including lights & radios. However, in the rare cases where the charging system is not enough, the battery can assist the charging system for a very short time. Usually five minutes or less. Think winches.
|
|
Jeff J
Member Joined: 12 Mar. 2018 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 429 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
It’s not enough to simply put a volt meter on a battery to test it. My understanding is that there was already a volt meter in the dash and voltage was known from that. A fully charged 12 volt battery will show around 12.5 volts (ideally 12.6). What needs to be tested is capacity. How much 12 volt power it holds. The easiest way is the load tester. This puts a load on the battery to see what the voltage drops to. A good battery shouldn’t get much below 10 volts with a load on it. It’s better to use an actual tester to get a consistent draw but can be done by reading a volt meter while cranking.
There are ways to test the alternator and regulator with a volt meter but I think having the parts store test it is the way to go. About the only time I test the charging system myself is when working on aircraft and doubt my ability to walk a person through it on the internet. Any decent parts store should be able to test battery and charging system although knowledgeable employees to operate the equipment are in short supply around here. I have never been charged for having stuff tested.
Edited by Jeff J - 23 June 2022 at 9:21am |
|
ajax25
Member Joined: 28 July 2018 Location: WA Status: Offline Points: 258 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Awesome thank you guys, the battery seems to be holding at 12.5v and I actually noticed last night there is a sticker down on the side of the battery that’s says 2/19 on it so I’m guessing that’s how old it is. Since the amperage goes down when the jeep is running and not up to 14ish Everything seems to be pointing to my charging system.
|
|
Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1482 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Before you pull your alternator out, I suggest checking one thing.
As I mentioned in my previous post, it looks like you may have a GM alternator. It is hard for me to see from the picture. This alternator requires it to be excited before it will produce. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF, put your volt meter probe into the connection you repaired and see if you get voltage. If it is a GM alternator and you ARE getting voltage, check the wire connection that goes into the alternator. If you are NOT getting voltage, trace that wire back and see where it goes. It should go to a source that is on when the ignition switch is on. One thing to watch on the ignition side connection is if it is sharing a terminal with the ignition coil. If so, the Jeep will not shut off with the ignition switch and a diode will be needed in the alternator line. I learned this after I got my Jeep. I could not get the battery to charge. I got stranded twice. Alternator taken to AutoZone and tested fine. I actually wasted money replacing a good alternator. The PO did not connect the plug to anything. I finally realized what it was for. Then I found out I needed the diode. Micah
|
|
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
|
ajax25
Member Joined: 28 July 2018 Location: WA Status: Offline Points: 258 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
|
ajax25
Member Joined: 28 July 2018 Location: WA Status: Offline Points: 258 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Dude Micah! I did what you said this morning and it read 12.5v but when I pulled it out it looked like the pic above so I cleaned it out a little, started the jeep and boom voltage now goes up instead of down. This reading is with the jeep just idling. I think I will replace that connection just to make sure.
|
|
Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1482 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Glad to hear. I hope it solved the problem.
You should be able to get a replacement at any decent auto parts store. I suggest putting some dielectric grease in there to keep it from corroding. Micah
Edited by Steelyard Blues - 23 June 2022 at 3:05pm |
|
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
|
ajax25
Member Joined: 28 July 2018 Location: WA Status: Offline Points: 258 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yeah I’ll give it a test tomorrow morning on my way to some 6am basketball which is when it died on my last time and see how it does. Hopefully this time my buddy doesn’t have to give me a push so I can start it and get back home haha
|
|
Post Reply | Page <123 |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |