Took me 6 years, but I finally got one |
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BradR
Member Joined: 05 June 2017 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Bruce, I've noted that, but I haven't figured out WHY they lowered the transmission. I'm wondering if I took a grinder to the body if I could open it up a bit more so that high could engage easier. I know that's doing more of Bubba's work, but it's already a non-stock tub, might as well bubba it up. Next time Andrew is over I'm going to see if he can give it a look over. He's smarter than me, and he owes me one.
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Rick G
Member Joined: 17 May 2015 Location: Amarillo, TX Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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Howdy Brad and welcome to the madness. 'Bout time you got your own Willys! Actually....the difference in the magnets that you described IS significant. Both in terms of contact area AND volume. I'm no magnet expert but in terms of size comparison, the 25mm magnet is SUBSTANTIALLY larger than the 10mm magnet. It isn't a simple diameter x height calculation and comparison. Here are the numbers for a single magnet of stated size: Metal contact area for 10mm magnet is 78.5 mm^2 Metal contact area for 25mm magnet is 490.9 mm^2 This is a difference of 625% Volume of 10mm x 4mm magnet is 314 mm^3 Volume of 25mm x 3mm magnet is 1,473 mm^3 Volumetric difference is 469% I'm not sure as to which metric (contact area or volume) is more important in magnet sizing, but I suspect that contact surface area plays a significant role in determining magnet strength. Either way, the 25mm magnet is a much stronger magnet, all other things being equal. There are different types of magnets as well (e.g. rare earth magnets), of which, one will probably be a better choice for your application. See you in the Fall! Rick |
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BradR
Member Joined: 05 June 2017 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Oh my gosh Rick you are right! I didn't do any of my math correct at all on that one. I was thinking in 2 dimensions plus I didn't even calculate the area of a circle correctly. Wow, I'm actually a bit embarrassed. Also you are right about different materials in magnets having different strength. I found some 31mm Radius x 2mm magnets that have a 12 pound pull rating, which should be enough for my project! I'm finding out tomorrow if I get to go to FCT, it would be great to see you as well!
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m38mike
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2007 Location: Colorado High Country Status: Offline Points: 3794 |
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Congratulations on being accepted for FCT this year, but you're going to have to work for it - Radio Guy!
Yup, Brad and I had a sidebar conversation about jobs at FCT and he proposed having someone besides me taking care of radio work. With the heavy emphasis I put on having good radio communications, this was taking a fair chunk of my time. So I created a new job - Radio Guy - and Brad's going to fill it for me this year. He'll take care of programming radios, maintain my bank of loaner radios, and take over the resetting channels task every morning while I do the morning briefing. Brad's going to be a busy guy at FCT, taking care of he "new" Jeep and taking care of all the radio issues that come up.
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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BradR
Member Joined: 05 June 2017 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Took a short vacation with the wife before the school year starts and we get busy again. I tried to not think about work which was easy, and tried to not think about the jeep, which was much more difficult. It was good to get away, and I feel much better about the progress I’ve made so far. But first, a couple of non jeep build announcements:
I am going to Fall Colors Tour this year! As Mike posted, I’m going to be the official radio guy this year. I had to get my programming cable out for the Baofeng and install the Chirp software, the last time I programmed my radio was in 2020. I have some ideas for the radios at FCT this year. First I’d like to set down and write out a guide for the Baofeng UV-5R for use at FCT, and second, I’d like to hold a beginners radio class at the beginning of the week so everyone knows how to use the radio. Right now, both are just ideas, and I need more time to commit to each. And for my second announcement, my parents have decided to go to FCT this year! Arick has finally convinced my parents to come see what all the fuss is about. I’m pretty excited that my first year with a Jeep will be my parents first year to ride along at FCT. Andrew got to work right away on the ignition switch. He wired a connector to it, which is perfect, because this one is getting worn out and it’s only a matter of time before I’ll be replacing it. Had to drill the hole out a bit, but was able to install the original style light switch, and let me just say... This plunger switch is so much more satisfying to use than a simple on/off switch. I'm so excited about how much better this Jeep looks than it did. It's interesting how much small changes like this make to the overall feel of the Jeep. We had a quick discussion, and decided to do 2 fuse panels. One is connected to the battery and will power lights and the horn. The second is connected to the ignition switch by a relay and only powered on when the key is on. This one powers the heater fan motor, electric fuel pump, and electric wipers. Everything has a dedicated ground, is wired with marine grade heat shrink, and wrapped with loom tape to prevent rubbing the insulation off and shorting out. So far it looks fantastic. I also started working on another design. Something to hold my radio in the Jeep. Non-permanent was the name of the game for this one. I decided to use the roll cage for this one and designed something that would use zip ties. I’m also using a small piece of rubber I need to cut down once I get a good feeling for exactly where I want it mounted. I bought PETG fillament for this, and did my first print with it. It printed well, but stuck to the print bed, I’m going to need to find a better solution for too much bed adhesion before I print something as large as the cup holder. ScoutPilot got back with me. The Carburetor is finished, and should be on it's way home soon. Here is a video of it running, so I have no excuses for a smooth running Jeep! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyiVAwVdKGo
Edited by BradR - 02 Aug. 2022 at 3:14am |
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BradR
Member Joined: 05 June 2017 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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All the discouragement is gone, Seeing the indicator lights powered on today was super exciting. I’m pretty sure I let out a high pitched whew whoo! When Andrew flipped the switch. But I’m getting way ahead of the day, so starting out…
I was able to print the new cup holder, and a few things stood out. Paul thinks I can get by with 1mm or even less material between the bottom and the magents. I’m going to try .8 or 1mm next. The magnets stick good enough for road driving, but off road is probably not good enough. Once Andrew got here he made quick work of the remaining connectors to the fuse panels. All that was left was the turn signals… Dun dun duhnnnnnn. I decided I wanted all connections to be in the engine bay and not under the dash, so we added a new hole to the firewall and lengthened all 7 wires. We then proceeded to argue about all 7 connections. I’ll have you know that the blue wire connects to ground. Paul wanted to connect it to the flasher relay, but he was wrong. Paul was wrong and I was right. Once connected we had to test the front signal lights with a voltage meter because the #57 yellow LED lights had not yet arrived. I’m hunched down thinking “I can’t believe we can’t test this for real yet”, and the package showed up. But then a new issue. Intermittent connection. After some investigation Andrew discovered the bulb connection was just a bit to short. (I know, I know, I wish I could tell you that either I or Paul did SOMETHING to troubleshoot an issue correctly, but alas, I cannot… That Andrew fellow is just to smart). I thought I was going to need new bulbs, but Andrew just added a bit of solder to them. The wiring job is complete. All that’s left is wrapping everything together. I *might add a 12v cigarette plug for phone charging. There is a 1” hole under my gauges that need something to go there. I need to make that decision and then wrap the rest of the wiring. Next up, we removed the shift lever cover and marked out where we needed to cut out the body so that the high transfer case lever would engage easier. I went to go get hearing protection and by the time I was back Andrew already had it cut out. I’m pretty sure Bruce wanted me to fix this the right way by lifting the transmission up, but I don’t have time for that “doing things right” mentality. I need to get to FCT! Eventually I am going to have to take the time to figure out what is going on. I looked at where the overdrive would go, and there just isn’t room. If I’m going to put an overdrive in, it’s going to be a major undertaking. But back to the present, now there plenty of room for the lever and I don’t think I’m going to have issues engaging high range anymore. Before Andrew left I had him check the rear differential. I was planning on changing the fluid, but I wanted his eyes on it. He gave it the thumbs up and said the wear was even. I put some RTV on it, and will fill it back up tomorrow. To Do: Fill Rear Diff fluid Drain and fill front diff fluid Figure out how to pack bearings Pack Bearings Figure out how to grease the knuckles Grease the knuckles Install new spark plugs Install carburetor when it gets here change oil and filter If I have time change the transmission fluid… Where do I get GL1 fluid from? Drive it everwhere |
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m38mike
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2007 Location: Colorado High Country Status: Offline Points: 3794 |
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GL1 or GL4 are good in your transmission. They both lubricate the brass gears without damaging them. GL5 can damage the brass in your transmission. Not recommended. Any auto parts store can get it for you if they don't have some on hand.
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11173 |
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Napa caries or can order GL1 and GL4 gear oil
GL1: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NHF65201?impressionRank=1 Our local Napa has this on the shelf but it is geared more to farmers. Seems like the city Napa stores have to order it usually. GL4 synthetic: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SL_SL24239?impressionRank=1 There seems to be a shortage of the Sta-Lube. The stores around me have it on back order from the factory. I think Rock Auto still has some. Edited by jpet - 08 Aug. 2022 at 6:42am |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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BradR
Member Joined: 05 June 2017 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Thanks for the recommendations. Looks like my Napa has both options in stock. Now I have to make a decision!
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BradR
Member Joined: 05 June 2017 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Well, this is going to be a big one. I’ve worked weekday evenings and all weekends to get caught up. The TLDR: The good news is I’m running! The bad news is, I still have problems.
Went to a friends shop who has a welder. I’ve never learned how to MIG weld, so I setup the TIG welder and welded the heat riser shaft to the damper pretty easily. Afterwards I helped him troubleshoot some wiring and install a new vacuum sensor on his project car. I noticed he has some small overflow tanks and thought they might make a really good candidate for a CJ2A. They are about the size of a 1 liter coke bottle. They come in multiple colors so black would probably fit in pretty well for a modification. I’m leaving this hear to remind me as well. I might try to put one in next year. https://www.mishimoto.com/aluminum-coolant-reservoir-tank.html First up, I drained both the front and rear differentials, and then reinstalled the front caps. According to Andrew the gears have even wear marks, and they look good. So far no leaks. I designed a mount for the flasher relay in onshape, and quickly discovered I measured it wrong. Well, like the old saying, measure once, print twice. Second one turned out REALLY well though. There are holes for the screws, and a place for a zip tie to secure the relay. I’m really happy with the outcome. If you get the CEC Industries EF33RL Electronic Flasher, then I have a mount you can print. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5456393 I installed the gaskets and loosely connected the intake and exhaust manifolds. I followed the Team G503 youtube video instructions for this part. I found that a ratchet with a short extension, swivel head, and then short socket works best for these hard to reach bolts. Once they were secure, I went back and tightened the intake and exhaust manifold connection bolts. Whew, that is some dirty oil… I need to replace it. So, I drilled a new hole in the firewall for the oil gauge line, and installed the oil gauge. WAIT a second. What is this, I think I see a complete dash… Wow, this thing looks good with all the gauges in the right spot. When it looks this good, you know you are on the right track So, with the oil pressure gauge connected, I gave it another crank or two and it fired right up! First impressions… Oh wow, she’s so much quieter than before. This is nice. I let it run for a while. Temperature didn’t go above 190, well that’s promising. I shut it off and let it cool a little, then changed the oil. Whew that was some dirty oil. I pumped out the extra oil in the oil filter housing and cleaned it out. I even poured extra oil and let it drain through to help clean it out a bit. This dirty stuff has me worried. I should have done this the first day I had it. I’ll have to change it again before leaving for FCT. I’d tell you what oil I put in, but I don’t want this thread to turn into a political battleground that ends in tears and bloodshed. Or I could piss everyone off and tell you I used Full Synthetic 0w16 house brand. :) Over the weekend I drove it as much as possible. The lights, signals, starter, and everything electrical works great… oh wait.. the battery died again. After crying myself to sleep, I woke up the next day and got to troubleshooting. I think the alternator is slipping on the belt. The belt is long, and I have the alternator pushed out almost as far as it will go. I think getting a different belt could help. Also that crooked alternator mount is not helping anything. I tightened everything up and now SOMETIMES I get 14 volts while driving and other times I get 12. I’m not sure what is happening here, but I think the belt needs to be tighter. I might be asking my buddy if he wants to re-weld this alternator mount soon. I’m also having issues idling. Thumpy is holding up to his namesake. I’ve been fiddling with the idle screw, air/fuel ratio, timing, and RPM. After hours of research, youtube videos, forum posts, testing, experimenting, cussing, crying, and praying I’m 100% confident that I have no idea what I’m doing. First of all I bought this multi-meter from amazon: https://a.co/d/6sU6gUg And I just don’t trust that it’s giving me an accurate RPM reading. If I get the RPM’s down to 700, the engine does not run well. It shakes the chassis and barely keeps running. It feels like 500 RPM, and I want to trust my gut feeling over an unproven tool, but I have no way to verify. At 1000 RPM it’s running much smoother. The vacuum gauge is giving me a weird flutter and I can’t get a good reading to set my timing. For now I just have the timing set by ear. It was all the way advanced, so I loosened the bolt and moved it to the left a bit. It runs much better now, but without a better reading I can’t see what my actual vacuum is. I’m using the same multimeter to read dwell, and I’m getting a reading of 40. I’ve adjusted my points, but I can’t get anything better than 40. Does this mean I need new points? Again, I don’t trust I’m getting an accurate reading with this unproven tool. I need to talk to Arick and see about visiting Bob. He helped us rebuild Paul’s transmission, and I’m thinking he probably has better tools and the experience to diagnose what it going on with Thumpy. Video of vacuum gauge flutter: For some good news. I’ve been driving it everywhere and my overheating issue is 100% gone. I’ve also got WAY more power and able to make it up hills in second gear that I was struggling to overcome in 1st. I’ve only see it go over 190 after turning off the engine and letting it sit. The overflowing issue I was having is gone as well. That 160 degree thermostat with a hole drilled in it is working. Well, also removing the huge winch that was blocking half the radiator is probably helping as well. Also having the proper carb can’t hurt. I’m really encouraged despite the idling issue, and it’s so much fun to drive. Can you recycle the old oil filter cans? Also the new one is shorter than the old one? I have no reference point to judge which is correct. Edited by BradR - 15 Aug. 2022 at 11:58pm |
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BradR
Member Joined: 05 June 2017 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Oh wow, in my search I found this video that shows a see through carb, and it's fantastic. I have a much better understanding of how a carb works now. |
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ricco
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 09 Apr. 2007 Location: Olathe, Kansas Status: Offline Points: 1412 |
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Fun to see the progress Brad! It will all pay off.... in about a month! Got some cooler weather moving in, maybe we can have a meet up!
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She can dance a cajun rhythm....jump like a Willy's in four wheel drive...("Sugar Magnolia")
'48 CJ2A #204845 "Lumpy" |
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BradR
Member Joined: 05 June 2017 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Well, I took it to a friends house and we tested compression on each cylinder.
Cylinder Pressure test: 1- 120psi 2- 10psi Add a small amount of oil to cylinder 2 - 30psi 3- 110psi 4- 60psi Add a small amount of oil to cylinder 4 - 60psi Tighten head gasket bolts to 62lbs 1- 130psi 2- 26psi 3 - 125psi 4 - 65psi The good news is I know why I don’t have any power. The bad news is, there are only a few weeks left until FCT and I need major work done to the motor. |
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BradR
Member Joined: 05 June 2017 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Ok, so I talked to Jpet today, and he said we needed to pour the oil in a straw to make sure it makes it to the cylinder. Which makes since. We just poured oil straight into the spark plug holes. So tomorrow, we will test again.
We also tested when the engine was hot, and tomorrow I want to test with a cold engine. It seems like I have more power when the engine is cold. That would explain why I thought I had so much power right after the new carb was installed, but keep having random power issues. The longer I drive, the less power I seem to have. Testing tomorrow on a cold engine would confirm my suspicions. I have 4 weeks (3 weekends) to diagnose, order parts, and install everything. The stress is real.
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Michaeltru
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Oct. 2012 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 987 |
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Valve tappet clearance?
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Mike in AZ
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wish i knew more
Member Joined: 26 Oct. 2017 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Could be as it warms up the valves are maybe not quite sealing/seating causing a loss of power.
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My name is Cameron Koehn.
1946 CJ2A, Frame: -----, Body: 17909. Engine: Flathead V8(proposed), Originally Harvest Tan I think. |
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BradR
Member Joined: 05 June 2017 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Just a quick update, no photos. I'm exhausted. I've had a sick kid all week and I had some back pain on Tuesday that kept me from working on the Jeep. We poured oil down a straw into cylinders 2 and 4, and there was no change in the pressure test. Huge shout out to Jeff and Rick for helping me out so much with this. I asked a ton of questions and they both helped out tremendously. I pulled the valve cover off and sent a photo to Rick who pointed out that the exhaust valves on Cylinder 2 and 4 are both bent on not lining up with the tappets under them. Jeff told me to put some compressed air down the spark plug holes to see where the leak was going and it blew out the exhaust ports. Two different ways to troubleshoot, both saying the same thing. It took me FOREVER to get the head off. I had to remove the threaded bolts, I was afraid I was going to break something if I pulled any harder. Now that it's off I can visually see that valve 2 and 4 are not seating correctly. I'll work on photos tomorrow so everyone can see what I'm talking about. At this point I'm debating on if I should replace all the valves, valve guides springs, and retention spring, OR just the 2 that are not holding pressure. I don't have time to find a machine shop that can cut in new valve seats, so the question is "Is it better to have a new valve on an old valve seat, or better to leave the valve that is working fine?" I had 120+psi on cylinders 1 and 3. I'd hate to mess that up. Pictures tomorrow, sleep tonight.
Edited by BradR - 26 Aug. 2022 at 12:33am |
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m38mike
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2007 Location: Colorado High Country Status: Offline Points: 3794 |
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Brad, it sounds like a full valve job is in order for your engine. But not right now unless you can get it in and out in a day or two. My thought here is you've got a short deadline to meet. So fix what's broken, leave what's working alone for the short term. Check the valves and seats to see if there are deposits or something that's keeping the valves from moving straight up and down. Pull the problem valves and check to see that they are straight and square. Are the springs in good shape with good tension? Clean the valves and seats. Replace any part that's questionable. If all the parts look good, reassemble them, adjust them, and turn the engine to see if they are working correctly. Once they're working right, check the adjustment on 1 and 3 to see if they need to be tweaked. While you've got the block open see if your oil galleries are open. If 2 and 4 are not getting oil that may be the reason they're not running true. Those are my thoughts.
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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