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Overdrive Question

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92889 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2022 at 3:11pm
Let’s not debate the GL1 and GL4 again please.

I was mistaken, I have GL1 oil in my transmission/transfer case.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2022 at 3:17pm
Back on topic.

Does anyone have a torque value to put the nut on the transmission shaft so I can put my Jeep back to non overdrive configuration.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2022 at 4:15pm
Section U55 in the service manual says "transmission main shaft nut 80-110 ftlbs"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2022 at 5:56pm
Thanks

I did not have that reference. 
Appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2022 at 11:08pm
I torque to 100 lbs and check to see if the cotter pin will line up, if not I tighten more until it will. Do not loosen it to align the cotter pin.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug. 2022 at 5:42pm
Joe,

I’m going to take your advice and assemble the overdrive without pins.

Your logic seem sound. I believe from what I have read that you have done this more than once.

Thanks for the advice.

Looking forward to enjoying my overdrive soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug. 2022 at 8:17pm
I've done it enough times that I once used toothpicks in place of the roll pins when they broke.
I pulled the overdrive 10 years later to install in a different Jeep and the toothpicks were still intact.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug. 2022 at 11:34pm
Beats trying to drill and tap holes for screws you don't need.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2022 at 12:25am
That’s cool. I got the centre section installed. Torqued, lock nut and lock spring installed. I made multiple measurements of how far the face sticks out past the machined surface I get .662” - .689”, but I have a pretty cheap calliper. Spec is .67”-.68”.



I may purchase a better calliper to see if I can get a more consistent measurement. But maybe I’m overthinking it!?!

It would not be the first time.

I did not get spacers that go under the shift cane pivot bracket above the transmission. Can anyone tell me how long the spacers are please? Maybe 1/2”. Can’t tell from the pictures or videos. 


Edited by 92889 - 19 Aug. 2022 at 12:36am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2022 at 8:23am
I think you're good for the 'stick out'.

Next step is to put the transmission in neutral, grab the overdrive by the center hub and rotate the shaft.
It should rotate easily and smoothly and the bowl gear should remain stationary and not move up and down or side to side.

When I do these, at the step you are at, I stick a camera in the center and take a picture of the lock ring so every time I ask myself if I'm sure I got the lock ring in correctly I can look at the picture.


Edited by Joe Friday - 19 Aug. 2022 at 9:03am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote muley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2022 at 11:11am
Originally posted by Joe Friday Joe Friday wrote:

I ask myself if I'm sure I got the lock ring in correctly I can look at the picture.
 
I only think about it when od engaged, 3rd gear, 50mph...Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2022 at 11:16am
I had one that Joe helped me figure out which had a tooth broken off on the bowl gear, but was in pristine shape inside.

I suspect that tooth got broken because it came loose which probably could only happen if the lock plate and snap ring were not seated. It is worth checking, and double checking, and I like the idea of a picture for self assurance later. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92889 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2022 at 12:08pm
I triple checked the lock nut and snap ring. I took photo and video. Everything spins smoothly, no weird sounds.
I think I am overthinking it. I’ll get it buttoned up today, connect the linkage, allow the seal to cure overnight and take it out tomorrow.




Edited by 92889 - 19 Aug. 2022 at 12:09pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2022 at 12:50pm
I predict success!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2022 at 12:55pm
The next confidence builder is to take a photo of the front synchro to assure it is aligned with the slot in the synchro around the shifter dogs (plates).

Don't panic if it doesn't shift smoothly or seems stiff when first installed. I've experience a short break-in period with ones rebuilt with new parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2022 at 3:25pm
Late to this party, when I had Herm "fix" my bowl gear assembly because it had a broken thrust washer in board of the planetary gears, I discovered that no one had ever cleaned the crud out of the inside of the planetary bowl gear assembly. (Including Herm) Metal and brass particles centrifugally were packed into the needle bearings and outer grooves, just waiting to ruin all the new stuff. This was a Warn style bowl gear. The "repair" was not satisfactory since the planetary gear pins were free to shift outward and rest against the drive dogs and stop the shifting into gear. I had a machinist drill and roll pin the planetary pins as original. I hope your bowl gear is cleaned up well.

A AA Saturn bowl gear has a snap ring and groove to hold the planetary gear pins from moving outward and are spot welded on the opposite end with no roll pins like Warn used.  

Also check that the trough that feeds oil to the rear bearing does not rub the bowl gear side. 

I now run magnetic drain plugs in both the transmission and transfecase. Full of oil at all times is a must. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2022 at 3:48pm
Oilly, 

The roll pins we have been discussing are not the ones that hold the 4 shafts for the planetary gears in place. Those are almost impossible to remove. EDM has been the most successful for getting them out.
If yours backed out, either the overdrive got really hot due to low lube or loose drive nut, or it had been previously rebuilt and somone enlarged the holes while drillling out the old pins.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2022 at 4:09pm
I understand the pins you are talking about. My warn bowl gear repair required the removal of the planetary gear roller pins. Herm had to shear the side 1/8 inch roll pins holding the planetary gear pins. They replaced those with new roller gear pins but no side locking 1/8 inch roll pins.  Sorry if I confused you. 
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