mini-starter |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4908 |
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Posted: 05 Nov. 2022 at 6:27pm |
Just now got around to working on an engine I acquired last Spring. Getting it ready to mount on a stand, and pulled this little bitty starter off of it.
I assume it is one of the mini Hi-torque starters I have heard of, and it looks like those I see listed as such, but there is no label on it so I am not entirely sure what it is. Trying to decide whether to use it, or an original starter, of which I have several. Anyone use something like this ? IF so, how good is it? Edited by Oldpappy - 07 Nov. 2022 at 2:24pm |
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13585 |
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I like mine.
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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dasvis
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1547 |
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+1, those are nice little starters.
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty" 1964 Thunderbird convertible ..... & one of them moves under it's own power!! |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4908 |
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Okay, you guys have talked me into trying it.
The engine was a fairly fresh rebuild, but compression is low on the number 3 cylinder. I suspect a blown head gasket is the problem. I found brass nuts were used on the head studs, and only one of them was torqued beyond 40lbs, and that one moved at 50lbs. That guy didn't build the engine, but I suspect he installed the head and oil pan too judging by the brass nuts and the great gobs of blue silicone sealant squeezed out around the pan, neither of which are signs of a real mechanic at work. I guess he ever got re-torqued the nuts or the brass nuts just couldn't hold properly. All four plugs are a nice toasty tan color, which is a good sign. I am going to give it a good going over before I decide to put it into a Jeep. Once I get it on the stand I will pull the head and pan and see what I can see.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3043 |
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Pull the oil sump as well. Check the pick-up tube screen for excess blue goo plugging it up. You do not want that.
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4908 |
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Yep Captain, that was my thought as well.
Would be pulling the pan anyway because it is a truck oil pan and I want to replace it with one with the skid plate. Whenever I see a big goopey mess of silicone I think "amateur at work". With the amount of squeezed out silicone on the outside I would be surprised if non made it into the oil sump. I plan to pull the pump for inspection as well.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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JonJ
Member Joined: 18 Apr. 2020 Location: Essex, UK Status: Offline Points: 322 |
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Just catching up on my old posts and Oldpappy’s caught my eye. My starter has blown up (badly) and I was looking at the starter in the attached picture as most repro starters seem to be poor on quality. Looks the same product. Would anyone provide a review / have experience on its performance and also fit on the flywheel. Any adjustments required etc? Not stock I know but the choice is expensive trash or very expensive original rebuilds.
Thanks in advance! Edited by JonJ - 09 Nov. 2022 at 9:32am |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4908 |
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There are a couple of responders above with good reports on them. I have yet to use the one I have, but based on the above reports I will use it on the engine it came attached to. Obviously, you have to know which flywheel you have before spending the money on one, but the one I have bolts right up without any modification or "adjustment" that I can see.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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jpoole
Member Joined: 15 Dec. 2020 Location: Chattanooga TN Status: Offline Points: 91 |
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I put this one on my M38: and it looks like it's the same unit though it may be rebranded. In my opinion and experience it's an upgrade. Better engagement, faster start, easier install, works with a lower battery, etc.
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JonJ
Member Joined: 18 Apr. 2020 Location: Essex, UK Status: Offline Points: 322 |
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That’s great, thanks. Just one more question if I may? Is the new starter installed with a foot starter? I’m not keen to change to a solenoid.
Thanks!
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Lee MN
Member Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4950 |
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I installed one of these on my 2A last year, mine came from a link on this site to EBay from a shop in Texas…. I would not go back to the OE Auto-Lite….. The starter has a solenoid on it, I still use my floor starter switch to operate the starter….
Lee😉 Here is a video of my install. [TUBE] https://youtu.be/LbHK6L0pdro[/TUBE] Edited by Lee MN - 10 Nov. 2022 at 9:38am |
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LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History |
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JonJ
Member Joined: 18 Apr. 2020 Location: Essex, UK Status: Offline Points: 322 |
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This is great, very helpful thanks! Just one more thing on the wiring set up, just so I get it right in my mind.
So you took off the manufacturer’s wiring loop from exciter to live terminal and you wired both the battery to foot starter cable and starter motor to foot starter cable on the same foot starter terminal, so the starter motor is live all the time. On the exciter you ran a smaller wire to the other terminal on the foot starter so you don’t have to blast the foot starter with amps. Great idea! Question if I may? What gauge was this wire, 12 gauge ? Thanks for your time, really appreciated Jon |
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Lee MN
Member Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4950 |
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Yes you have it, I believe I used 12 gage but 14 would be fine as well. Lee😉 |
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LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History |
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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Doesn't sound right that the starter motor is alive all the time. The input of the solenoid should be alive all the time.
Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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JonJ
Member Joined: 18 Apr. 2020 Location: Essex, UK Status: Offline Points: 322 |
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Thanks Lee
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cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3043 |
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In this setup, Both the starter's attached solenoid & the foot switch should be "alive all the time". Just like in modern cars, the positive battery terminal will go to the starter's attached solenoid & the starter will be energized by the attached solenoid. This attached solenoid will get energized by the foot switch. In modern cars the attached solenoid gets energized by the start position of the ignition switch. Since we do not have a start position on our ignition switches, we usually use either a starter button on the dash, or we use a foot switch to energize the starter solenoid. Clear as mud yet?
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JonJ
Member Joined: 18 Apr. 2020 Location: Essex, UK Status: Offline Points: 322 |
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Mini starter installed
and works great. I wired my battery cable direct to the starter and ran 12 gauge from the ignition to foot starter and on the other side, 12 gauge to exciter. Fab first time start with no heavy amps going through foot starter. Thanks for your help! Jon Edited by JonJ - 20 Nov. 2022 at 12:09pm |
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JonJ
Member Joined: 18 Apr. 2020 Location: Essex, UK Status: Offline Points: 322 |
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And the right way up thanks to 43 Flat-Fender
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