Does a 46 VEC need rear axle puller |
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cpt logger
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3022 |
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Ah, Phoenix is a tad far to drive it out to you, & shipping 2 ways would be too much $$ I would guess. Bummer.
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SeeJayTwo
Member Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Desert Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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The puller shown is genius!!!! I can make that, piece of pipe, capped, right? Can I get ths dimension from plate bottom to cap bottom?....and ID of pipe?
Edited by SeeJayTwo - 27 Jan. 2023 at 5:46pm |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Online Points: 4139 |
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Yes Andy that’s it.
The pipe used was 2” ID. The pipe cap sets at 1” depth. Double check exact depth when you weld that on. Exact depth may be influenced by lug hole chamfering. As you can see my soft end cap is gouged from use. The cap ideally should be hardened about 5/16” thick. The main plate should be 5/16”. Mine was 1/4” and started to bend. Mild steel is fine here and the lug pattern should be precise with somewhat chamfered holes to accept the lug nuts.
Edited by oldtime - 27 Jan. 2023 at 6:29pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4812 |
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I am carrying some junk front hubs down to my metal working buddy to have him make some fake hubs that will mount on the rear axle of my "MB Clone" project so it will look more like a WW2 Jeep with floating axle.
I think I will also take a junk rear hub he can experiment with on his lathe. I think he can cut the inside down flat and hog out the taper. Could then just cap it to create a similar puller. If that works it might be a low cost way to make a puller, and find a use for the pile of split hubs some of us have laying around.
Edited by Oldpappy - 27 Jan. 2023 at 7:17pm |
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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SeeJayTwo
Member Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Desert Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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That could work depending on thickness of center and if it is cast metal. Cast will snap and hard to weld the pipe to. Cap can be a loose piece with a flange....or bolted on.
Are you talking putting the drum on backwards?
Edited by SeeJayTwo - 27 Jan. 2023 at 7:14pm |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4812 |
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Don't know what you mean about putting the drum on backwards, so no I wasn't talking about that.
The hubs are not cast iron, as I have seen them with bent flanges from people using the wrong pullers to remove them. Cast iron would break. Edited by Oldpappy - 27 Jan. 2023 at 7:18pm |
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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SeeJayTwo
Member Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Desert Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Blast out/cut out the wheel studs and place it on backwards. (no machining). Sort of has a built in "pipe" inside. Put the nut back on tight and crank on the lug nuts
Also the drum has a good looking thick round backer plate on the outside with holes already in it. Wonder if that can be cut off the cast drum and used? Don't crucify me while I'm brainstorming. Brainstorming is a legitimate method. In an engineering meeting it is encouraged. It will trigger other's ideas and pieces of all the ideas will come together as a solution or new product. it works. The problem is many people don't want to say something stupid in front of others. But the time it takes 12 people to individually think and think of a solution takes way too long. So some of this will be crazy because in my case I don't know 2J's very well yet. So I am blaststorming
Edited by SeeJayTwo - 27 Jan. 2023 at 7:53pm |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Online Points: 4139 |
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Sure I expect an “old hub” could be converted to work.
Face the outside of an “old hub” to be flat. Knock out the studs. Drill and countersink the 5 holes on the inside of “old hub” to accept lug nuts. Bore the center to fit over the taper shaft and cap the end to correct distance of about 1” The flat portion with 5 hole pattern cannot be too thick or else one cannot get the lug nuts started and have enough lug length to work with. Got that ? The 5 lugs are just long enough if the plate is not too thick. That’s why I say 5/16 thick plate and chamfer the holes. Do not chamfer too deep or the lug nuts will set too deep, going through the plate. Chamfer the lug holes so that the lug nut taper ends are almost flush with the plate. Edited by oldtime - 27 Jan. 2023 at 8:33pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1403 |
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Or --- buy the vintage hub puller........ It works. Just brainstorming. Edited by Ron D - 27 Jan. 2023 at 8:23pm |
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1951 M38
1951 M100 |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Online Points: 4139 |
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“Cheap” is sometimes the mother of invention,
Myself I can’t see spending money on something I use maybe six times. Most of my Jeeps now have flanged axle shafts.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4812 |
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Good one Ron.
Actually, that is what I did, I bought a vintage hub puller, very much like the one in the picture I posted, at a "garage sale" for $20, but you don't often find deals like that. I like the creativity involved in fabricating something useful out of something with no use such as a split hub. |
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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SeeJayTwo
Member Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Desert Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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A kind member near me has reached out with a loaner puller. Awesome.
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4812 |
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That is the beauty of this Jeep community.
Was thinking about what you said about putting the drum on backwards and tightening the lug nuts. All that would do is put the drum on the hub backwards, the lug nuts would just be tightening against the hub flange and doing nothing to pull the hub from the axle. You will see what I mean when you use the borrowed puller.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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SeeJayTwo
Member Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Desert Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Ron D is correct. Now that I can borrow a puller, the DIY ideas are moot.....but..........
Oldtime was the inspiration for me and you wanting to use old drum/hubs. So after removing the hub from the drum as seen in metalshaper's video, you have the beginnings of an oldtime puller. . I was trying to have an idea that suits the average guy like me with no lathe and no mill. Just normal shop tools. Angle grinder, drill press and maybe a welder. May not succeed on that. You can modify the removed hub to use backwards or forwards depending on what is the best approach. You slice off the hub protrusion on one side. Slip it on and see where you are at. Probably won't go on far enough to get lug nuts on. As has been said, Cbore to proper diameter and depth. You can add 3/8 to the depth so as to put a 3/8 thk spacer/plug in instead of welding on a cap. Another choice after Cbore is to use a thick spacer and large nut in the cbore. Weld a washer on both ends of hub hole to align a bolt to be used as a normal puller. As if oldtime were to drill and thread his pipe cap. This may be what you already had in mind. So not trying to be a "photo bomber". Maybe after cbore the whole thing falls apart For DIY'ers not wanting to use old hubs, making the oldtime is the way to go. I am very appreciative of being able to borrow.
Edited by SeeJayTwo - 29 Jan. 2023 at 1:08pm |
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