Propeller Shaft position |
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2023 at 9:38pm |
I am replacing the rear axles in my jeep. The new axle is slightly longer (front to back) than the old so now my rear drive shaft is too long to reattach. The top of the drive shaft has a slip joint with about 1 1/2" of travel. When the jeep is sitting in its wheels what is the normal position of the slip joint? I'm thinking mid-position makes sense but I'm not sure.
I'm thinking I need to have my driveshaft cut down a wee bit. Thoughts?
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15 Field RCA
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3190 |
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Mid position would be ideal but if it would not be possible with a maximum weight load on the jeep for the slip yoke to bottom out on the spline then no harm would be done. If the slip yoke does bottom out, the damage would be to knock the end plug out of the slip yoke. When installing the shaft for the first time purge as much grease as you can out the relief hole in the yoke by compressing the slip yoke down on the spline then install the shaft in the jeep. re-grease the yoke to fill the slip yoke cavity again. Hopefully this would work for you if the differences in your axle nose lengths are minor.
Cutting a shaft down is a process that should be done at a machine shop. Don't just cut out a section of the tubing in the center of the shaft and re-weld the tubing. The correct procedure would be to part the weld on a lathe at the spline stub and cut the desired amount off the tubing then re-weld the tubing to the spline stub on centers. After welding the shaft needs checked for run out on the neck of the spline. A correct run out done with a dial indicator would be less than .003" Just curious. How much is the difference in housing length for the axles? Edited by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A - 04 Feb. 2023 at 10:18am |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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I've posted a few places and that the best answer I've seem by far. So thank you for that sincerely.
At some point my jeep started out as a GPW. Over the years it has had more CJ parts added than GPW so that's probably the issue. I'm removing a Dana 25 rear axle and replacing it with a Dana 44. The 44 has a thicker tube and a longer snout (?) if that makes sense. But a measured a few times and I figure centre of the axle tube to front of the pinion yolk is close to 7/8" longer than the Dana 25. (21 mm actually). I'll take your advice and have the shaft shortened properly. I'm hoping it's a closer fit when I swap out the front Dana 23-2 for a Dana 25.
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15 Field RCA
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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This is how it sits presently with the new axle installed and shaft fully compressed. |
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15 Field RCA
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4183 |
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I have this cj propeller shaft available for $20 if your interested.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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duffer
Member Joined: 02 Feb. 2012 Location: Bozeman, MT Status: Offline Points: 1086 |
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That will obviously not work. In addition to potential driveshaft damage, you can also break the transfercase rear bearing retainer. As posted, ideally you want the splines centered at normal ride height. Absolutely check any new driveshaft by jacking the suspension up against the bump stops to make sure those splines do not bottom out at full compression. And then do the reverse suspending the rear axle with tires to make sure there is still some margin left before you pull the splines apart.
Another factor that can come into play here is whether you have the transfercase e brake companion flange or the non e brake rear bearing retainer yoke. The latter is about 5/8" shorter giving you a slightly longer driveshaft. Sometimes you can also move the axle back and forth on the spring perches. I always drill my perches with 3 holes so I can move the axle 3/4" in either direction. That can help a bunch when it comes to wheel well clearance. Last, Tom Woods makes some really great long spline driveshafts. Somewhat expensive but worth every cent if you have something other than a 134 under the hood and most especially so if you have a case of short driveshaft syndrome----
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1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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It's just an L134 under the lid. Not going for high performance, just need a shaft to fit properly.
The new Dana 44 is longer front to back than the Dana 25 I took out. Now my drive shaft is too long. My jeep is a mix of GPW (military) and CJ (civilian). I know they have different drive shafts because the GPW has a smaller transmission and the axle is a bit smaller front to back. The jeep had a T84 and now has a T90. So once the Dana 44 is it's basically going to be all CJ on a GPW frame. So I would think I have a longer GPW drive shaft in there. Maybe a shorter CJ shaft would fit. Otherwise I'll need to cut this one down.
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15 Field RCA
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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Old time... Maybe. Could you measure it centre eye to centre eye when fully compressed?
Edited by 92889 - 04 Feb. 2023 at 12:37pm |
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15 Field RCA
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4183 |
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I think this one shown above is off a v-6 cj5 so it may not be right either ????
Regardless it measures 18-5/8” when fully compressed.
Edited by oldtime - 04 Feb. 2023 at 12:46pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
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I'll get to mine Monday.
I'll keep that in mind. Thanks
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15 Field RCA
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