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sean View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 June 2008 at 6:01pm
Art:
Quote I too have wondered which is correct, tube or rod.

  • 663196 - TUBE, spacer, front top center bow (up to s/n 220627)
  • 671102 - BAR, spacer, front top center bow (after s/n 220627)

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 June 2008 at 6:17pm
Originally posted by sean sean wrote:

Art:
Quote I too have wondered which is correct, tube or rod.

  • 663196 - TUBE, spacer, front top center bow (up to s/n 220627)
  • 671102 - BAR, spacer, front top center bow (after s/n 220627)
 
Looks like I need the tube to be more correct for my 48  CJ2A #206759
 
Anyone who need the rod type, lets work a trade...
Art C USAF (Retired)

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 1:35am

Loogadal dem bows!  Das alada bows!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 1:37am
Ooooohhhh! I think I see mine!!!! And they look beautiful!!!!!


Seeya!

<Jack>

'48 CJ2A 197207 "Junebug"

'48 CJ2A 191237 "Turquoise"
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 2:24am

WOW those look great! I got goosebumps

 
Bob
46 CJ2A #48777
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51 M38 Body
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 2:41am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

When I checked my sockets, I measured their angle to the top of the tub.  not the earth.  Paul (hillbilly12) just told me that his '46 has 3 degree angles and his '47 is perpendicular.  Hmmmm.
 
I PM'd Art but have not heard back yet.
 

I just came in from checking the bow slope theory with my original half cab bows, and as the Famous Ed McMann always said...You Sir...are correct!

As you can see in the photo the front bows do indeed slope back slightly with reference to the level that is sitting flat on it's edge on top of the body.
 
The next thing I should state is that the slope in not in the bow itself but rather in the bow mount welded to the tub at a slight angle.
 
Art C USAF (Retired)

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 2:58am
Art,
 
Do your bows have a 3/8 rod that runs between them from rear assembly to front assembly?
 
If so can you measure the hole location where it is drilled into the side bow?
 
Thanks
jpet
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 3:35pm
I think I'm going to need more information on the tube spacer hole.  According to the link that Sam & Sean pointed me out to earlier.  The tube space hole is 3/16 dia & 1/8" centered from the end.  That would leave 1/32 inch wall from edge of tab to edge of hole.  They must mean that there is 1/8" of wall between quadrant of hole & end of tab.  This is what it appears to be by visual.   When I measure Rogers tube spacer in CAD, a few pages back, his tab is 1/2" long.  If I put a 3/16" hole, with the edge of hole 1/8" away from the end, that leaves me 3/16" from top edge of hole to the tube.  That does not look like the pictures and you would think that you should have at least 1/4" between the hole and the tube because the footman loop is 1/4" thick.  It occurs to me that the example in the link has a longer bent tab area than Rogers. 
 
Roger,  Some time (when you can), please tell me the hole location that you have.
If anyone has a tube spacer like the one in the link could you check this for me please?
 
Another Note:
I found out last night , while I was swagging the center bow ends, that the reason some of you guys are getting .096 readings on the wall thickness of your center bow is because of the swag.  When the end is swagged, the metal grows on the end.
 
One more question:
How tight are the center bow & side bow sockets when they are assembled?  Whe the center bow seats to the rivet, is it still loose?  Mine slide in pretty snug (but not too snug). It occured to me that about 1/2" of paint will get scratched off in this area.
 
jpet
(Sorry, no time to spell check) 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 3:37pm
jpet,
 
Mine is an original half cab so I do not have the rear bows, but my fronts do have the holes. I'll get you a measurement and edit this post with it.
Art C USAF (Retired)

47 CJ2A #134955 Project
48 CJ2A #206759
62 L6226 Station Wagon #58167 10900
45 T3-C #191 Project
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 4:11pm
Jeff:
Quote ... That does not look like the pictures and you would think that you should have at least 1/4" between the hole and the tube because the footman loop is 1/4" thick.
That kinda begs the question, which I've often wondered about:
What is the purpose of the hole?
I can't imagine what you'd put there that would serve any useful function.  And there's no mention of any kind of pin, clip, clamp, etc., in any of the parts lists.

Quote One more question:
How tight are the center bow & side bow sockets when they are assembled
The center bow is snug at least.  On one side of mine, it's very tight.  I have to twist back and forth a few times to get it to seat on the rivet.  And the paint is definitely worn off in that area.

Sean


Edited by sean - 22 June 2008 at 4:17pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 5:45pm
Originally posted by 48cj2a 48cj2a wrote:

jpet,
Mine is an original half cab so I do not have the rear bows, but my fronts do have the holes. I'll get you a measurement and edit this post with it.
 
I put a framing square against the bow and see 5 7/16" from the inside edge of the square.
 
 
 
Art C USAF (Retired)

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48 CJ2A #206759
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 6:57pm
Thanks Art,
 
I put that picture in CAD and it looks like the hole is 1-1/4" from the beginning of the bend.  Does anyone know which generation this started 2 or 3?  I'll add the hole to the drawing and a notation about the generation when I get confirmation of which gen had these holes.  The bows I make will not have these holes.  I also see that the degree angle of your bow is 83 deg.  Another inconsistency.  We have 83, 84, & 85.  It's easy to tweak your bow if you want to change the angle.
 
Tube spacer:
I don't think that hole serves a purpose either except for a place to hang it in the paint booth.  I guess I'll put it in 7/32 on center from the edge of the tab.  That will leave 1/8 of meat between the hole and the edge of the part.
 
This is how to make the bend in the end of the tube spacer:
 
Now when it's finished it dimples the metal like this:
 
 
I didn't see that dimple in Roger's  but his pictures didn't show that angle.  His are 14ga (or thicker).  Maybe that material won't do that.  This is 3/4"dia 16ga material.  when I get the 5/8" material in I will have to make a new jig anyway I'll work on this dimple when I do that.  I tried to get 5/8" dia material for these first orders, but the mill had already started on my order so I could not get it in.  I have to order the steel in bulk or it costs too much so when I order material for "B" list, I'll get some extra 5/8" dia tube.  So the first sets will have 3/4" dia tube.  If anyone from the "A" lists want's the 5/8 tube spacer,  I'll sell you one at cost.  The 3/4" tube spacer will fit in you storage bracket on the windshield.  In the mean time, I hate to use the "M" word but you could do an MDJaun and put some bondo in this spot to make it look full.  I don't think that this particular area will come in contact with anything.  I will experiment but I may not be able to control this.  The metal goes where it wants to.
 
jpet


Edited by jpet - 22 June 2008 at 9:09pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 7:12pm
  I think they look great  !!!!!!!   Wish I had the talent and time..
1946 CJ2a POW-MIA
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 7:50pm
Art C.

I have a set of bows that have the same punch to mimic the rivet. I was worried that I didn't have a normal set....

Even though I have a nearly complete set; missing the spacer and one crosstube
I would like to be put on the list for a complete set for ser.#187593 vintage.
I also need a spacer tube and one other crosstube.


I am a bit ahead of most with my partial set, so being down the list is certainly OK.

I just want jpet to know I am in the queue !

My compliments on your attention to detail, quality and resolve to finally fabricate this most elusive of accessories!  And  also to the many folks too many to list who have also helped out !


James Berry

'48 2A ser.187593 "Jeep Jeep"

It's a "Lefty"....
Moved north from California-
Now waving the Canadian flag -
A Canuck back home in Edmonton
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 7:51pm
the Jig's  that you are  building for these are the nicest I could ever imagine. Like REALLY NICE WORK!  WOW
Bob
46 CJ2A #48777
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 8:04pm
I have to second that......I'd like to see the rest of it but that's probably not a good idea here giving away trade secrets......MD Juan could be watching. Wink
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 8:15pm

If more people know how to do it, more people will do it and do it right.  The more people do it, the more available the correct version are.  Competition is up hence, demand goes down. What is the end result?

1.  Readily availabe bows at a cheap price.
2.  Jeff get's out of the shop and gets to drive his jeep on Saturday
 
Isn't that what we want? 
 
Believe me, MDJuan won't want to go through this much trouble and if they do They will have competition.
 
Everyone wants to protect it, but nobody wants to take it over.  I can't even GIVE this away.  I'm not sure I understand.  Probably a discussion for the "SOMEONE" thread that I would like to see start up.
 
By the way,  If anyone wants to come see this, come to Ramsey, IL for a day.  If you help me make them for a day, I'll give you a free set!  Yesterday it took me 12 hours to make 3 sets.  I hope that improves with time. 
 
 


Edited by jpet - 22 June 2008 at 8:22pm
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2008 at 8:37pm
I would take it in a heartbeat,  If and when I have the extra time.  I have too many projects on the go as it is.  Mostly get Jeep finished by summer, hopefully middle or end of summer now, hehe. 
Bob
46 CJ2A #48777
42 MB Slat Grill 119898 Frame
51 M38 Body
42 MB #155950
Spen Trailer

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