BODY BOLTS-MOUNTING |
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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Posted: 16 Sep. 2008 at 5:26pm |
If you click on them it should take you to the webshots album where they are stored and you can look at the pic full size. Note there is no mention of the shoulder bolts used on the rear , and the different washer part numbers of the same size. Can anyone tell me what the difference is in washer 5455 and 50921? |
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bkreutz
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 17 Oct. 2006 Location: Fruitland Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7037 |
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Bill,
Which parts book is that? I have a '49 and it lists flat washer 52819 for the 3/8" bolts and 53735 for the 5/16" bolts. Also it lists the 54132 BOLT, step as going in the #5 position. It also breaks down the bolt, nut, and washers individually by position 1-6. |
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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It is the 1945 book.
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sean
Moderator Group Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: North Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7388 |
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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Nice work, Sean! Can you tell me what the different flat washers are for in position 3A and 3B??
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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bkreutz
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 17 Oct. 2006 Location: Fruitland Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7037 |
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Bill,
I'm going to guess that's because of the fuel tank, 3a wouldn't have a flat washer under the head for clearance reasons, while 3b wouldn't matter since it's in the toolbox. (mind you this is just a guess) |
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sean
Moderator Group Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: North Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7388 |
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Bill, sorry, I missed your question back then!
There's a captive nut in the hat channel, this shorter (1") screw threads into the hat channel nut w/only 1 flat washer. Technically, this might be considered a "screw", not a "bolt". Sean |
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bkreutz
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 17 Oct. 2006 Location: Fruitland Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7037 |
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Well, that explains a lot, didn't know there was a captive nut there originally (that section of hat channel was missing on mine. I ended up using a carriage bolt on mine. Not going to change it now though.
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Ritt
Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Bethel CT Status: Offline Points: 1989 |
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You guys are somethin'
I'm almost at the same point. two more coats of paint on the tube and it goes on the frame.
Thanks,
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Rit
1948 2A, "RAISIN COOKIES THAT LOOK LIKE CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES ARE THE MAIN REASON I HAVE TRUST ISSUES" |
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47goDevil
Member Joined: 12 Oct. 2008 Location: HuntingtonBeach Status: Offline Points: 781 |
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Thank You Sean !
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gearhead
Member Joined: 03 Aug. 2010 Location: So. Cal Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Hi Guys. I'm new to the forum, and here's my first question.
The frame I'm using on my 2a doesn't have holes in it at station one for the through bolt. I do however have a short bracket that I think connects between the side of the frame and the vertical support attached to the firewall/kickboard of the body tub.
Were some of these jeeps made using only these brackets and no through bolts at station 1?
I'm tempted to drill the frame to use through bolts, as described in Sean's post (nice post, Sean!), but am wondering if there is a more correct way to attach the body tub on this particular frame. seems that if there aren't any holes in the frame, there's a reason for it.
If there wasn't any through bolt used at station 1 on this jeep, and only the side brackets were used, then what would hold the anti-squeak pad in place between the body and the frame?
Thanks in advance for your help!
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Hamhog
Member Joined: 05 Jan. 2008 Location: Havelock NC Status: Offline Points: 1669 |
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It's a little small but the bolt goes through the rubber placed between the frame and bracket.
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Dave
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lowenuf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 29 Aug. 2006 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 9122 |
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Sean's pic is deceiving, his #1 is actually referencing the tabs that stick down the side.....
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45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47 45 #10163 ACM #188 57 CJ5 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick |
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gearhead
Member Joined: 03 Aug. 2010 Location: So. Cal Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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You are right, Lowenuf. When I zoomed in in his picture I can see the tabs. That answers that question. Thank you! I only have on of the "tabs", and it is not attached to the body. Looks like it was spot-welded in place (there are four dimples that look like broken spot welds). So far, I haven't seen that little tab/bracket listed anywhere as an available part. Do any of you know it they are available, and from whom? Worst case, I can make a functional replacement, but won't look absolutely correct to anyone who gets down there and looks closely. Would prefer to get a correct one, if anyone knows where they can be procured. Glad I checked with you guys before drilling holes in my framefor through bolts. Thanks again for the help! gearhead
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porsskar
Member Joined: 28 Sep. 2010 Location: Finland Status: Offline Points: 1441 |
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Further to the issue bolts, screws & shims etc I have a question related to shipments from USA.
As most overseas/european CJ2a restorers are easily getting only metric screws etc in local shops what about the following?
Is there a suppliers who would sell a " total body/chassis" package of bolts, nuts etc?
I do not think anyone would mind if the package would have surplus 2-8 bolts extra so as to fit a wider range of years of production e.g. 1946-1950...this would anable all "connoseurs to have the right length of bolt" for just his/her cj2a jeep.
At leas I would like to buy a package for my 1947 cj2a if thyere would be a supplier who could supply other cj2a products in same shipment. In fact this would save a lot of time.
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Sten from Finland
1947 CJ2A serial 94118 1949 8NAN Ford tractor 1965 Mahoghany Snipe FIN 14018 |
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bkreutz
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 17 Oct. 2006 Location: Fruitland Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7037 |
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I don't know of any "bolt packages" for 2A's, I have seen them for WWII Jeeps though. This question has come up before and I don't recall any post that nailed down a supplier. The WWII sets would satisfy most of the size requirements, but the finish would be "wrong" (if that's even a concern) and the tend to be pricey because of the "correct" head markings and finishes. I guess you could go through the Parts Book and make up a list, I've often thought about that, but then contemplated the time that would be required and gave up. Of course for me, SAE bolts are only a short drive to the supply house. In the end, I don't have a good answer for you.
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Night0wl
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 29 May 2008 Location: StephensCity VA Status: Offline Points: 1645 |
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Gale,
Sean has already started the list...just look at his picture. All you need to do is add the proper lettering to each line indicating the letter head stamp for each bolt and your done! Simple!
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Night0wl
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot lose" Jim Elliot 45 CJ-2A My Project |
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Schute
Member Joined: 02 Aug. 2010 Location: Wyoming Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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I guess I am still a little confused (nothing new for me)... I understand that in Sean's picture above, station 1 is pointing to the tabs that mount the body to the side of the frame. My confusion is with the hole in the hat channel in that same area. It seems like there should be a bolt that holds the hat channel to the body but wouldn't that prevent the hat channel from sitting flat on the frame? |
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