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jgodfrey View Drop Down
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Points: 663 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jgodfrey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Frame Paint
    Posted: 04 Jan. 2022 at 6:50pm
I know this is a matter of opinion, but I would like to get some thoughts on paint.  Specifically, frame paint.  My frame has been media blasted, painted, then almost totally redone because of shoddy workmanship.  If you know, you know...

Anyway, once that was all rectified, I had an epoxy primer base and a black semi-gloss enamel.  But throughout my restoration "things" happen that require touch-ups.  I have tried Rustolium but wow, the drying times are crazy.  And to be honest it is not durable at all.  I have tried it by the quart and by the rattle can with the same result.

It takes several days to cure, and even then, it doesn't seem to have the durability I need on the frame.  Granted these are small touch-up areas that got slightly scuffed during assembly, but it also doesn't match the same sheen as the professional spray.  I cannot ask the painter what he used because I don't know who it was.  Long story...

So, what are the favorites for durable frame paint?  I need a quart and spray option if possible.

Thanks
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oldtime View Drop Down
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Points: 4184 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2022 at 7:04pm
Quality paint like southern polyurethane would likely never need any sort of  touch up.
Done right you can’t knock it off with a hammer.
I have over-coated and repaired lesser quality frames using Eastwood semi gloss “chassis paint” in aerosol spray cans.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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I did mine with Eastwood too. That was 20 years ago. Has held up well. 

Bill
Holy Toledo! Jeep Calendars and the Dispatcher Jeep magazine

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Points: 31 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reconnoiter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2022 at 9:55am
First post here...have been a lurker here for some time. Figured it was about time I paid back a bit with some help after all the (unbeknownst) help I have received on this forum during the restoration of my '48.  So...

As to frame paint, I had the frame blasted and then applied epoxy primer followed by Master Coat AG111 Superior Top Coat....it is an anti graffiti paint and used on train chassis so I figured it must be good....and it was.  Very tough, and better than any POR product imo.
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Points: 13584 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2022 at 10:17am
That looks like good stuff....can you give us cost and where you get it?
   (I wonder how it keeps graffiti artists off it) Embarrassed
'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"
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Points: 4151 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2022 at 10:19am
X2 on the MasterCoat AG111.  It's nearly bulletproof. Thumbs Up
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
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MasterSeries Coatings (masterseriesct.com)  ..  Not cheap at around $50 a quart.  I like the Satin version of the product.
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
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Points: 31 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Reconnoiter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2022 at 10:33am
Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

That looks like good stuff....can you give us cost and where you get it?
   (I wonder how it keeps graffiti artists off it) Embarrassed



Sure…looks like Amazon still has it.  The one quart set was enough for me to do the complete frame…..$63.95 with free shipping.  Here’s the link…
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jgodfrey View Drop Down
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Points: 663 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jgodfrey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2022 at 11:09am
This says 2-part.  Do you know if it available in a single-stage?
Thanks
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Points: 31 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reconnoiter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2022 at 11:37am
Originally posted by jgodfrey jgodfrey wrote:

This says 2-part.  Do you know if it available in a single-stage?
Thanks

They do offer a one part product, however it looks like it is only available in high gloss.  
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Scratch View Drop Down
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Points: 1454 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Scratch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2022 at 12:12pm
I like Eastwood epoxy primer and their Chassis Satin black for frames and drive train.  Here's the 46 frame I'm currently working on.



Edited by Scratch - 05 Jan. 2022 at 12:16pm
43 GPW 93487 Blk
44 GPW 230283 OD
46 CJ2A 50100 Tan
46 CJ2A 77632 Wht
47 CJ2A 141681 Grn
48 CJ2A 156240 Red/Yel
48 CJ2A "Lefty" 181341 Red
61 CJ5 123120 Tan
03 TJ Inca Gld
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jgodfrey View Drop Down
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Points: 663 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jgodfrey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2022 at 12:54pm
That is satin?  Here is mine.  I was trying to match the sheen and was told it was semi-gloss.  Based on these two frame examples, it looks like mine is satin as well.  These are glossier than I expected.





Edited by jgodfrey - 05 Jan. 2022 at 1:03pm
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rocnroll View Drop Down
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Points: 13584 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2022 at 1:10pm
In Rustoleum cans....Semi-Gloss is shiny-er than Satin.
 
So, Gloss...Semi-Gloss... Satin....Flat. They also have one for the Designer DIY crowd they are calling Canyon Black (looks a lot like Semi-G to me or may be a more budget paint|
 
 
'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"
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Scratch View Drop Down
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Points: 1454 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scratch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2022 at 1:14pm
Yes, mine is satin. I didn't want a glossy finish. I was considering semi gloss, but thought it was a little too much gloss for me. 
43 GPW 93487 Blk
44 GPW 230283 OD
46 CJ2A 50100 Tan
46 CJ2A 77632 Wht
47 CJ2A 141681 Grn
48 CJ2A 156240 Red/Yel
48 CJ2A "Lefty" 181341 Red
61 CJ5 123120 Tan
03 TJ Inca Gld
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jgodfrey View Drop Down
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Points: 663 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jgodfrey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2022 at 1:59pm
Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

In Rustoleum cans....Semi-Gloss is shiny-er than Satin.
 
So, Gloss...Semi-Gloss... Satin....Flat. They also have one for the Designer DIY crowd they are calling Canyon Black (looks a lot like Semi-G to me or may be a more budget paint|
 
 

The frame is epoxy primer and semi-gloss enamel.  I don't know what brand, as I severed ties after what they did had to be redone.  I was using Rustolium with a sponge brush here and there as I nicked it installing the engine, tub, fenders, etc.  To I would need to get a can of something that I can apply ad-hoc as needed that wouldn't stand out like a sore thumb.  Right now, the Rustolium semi-gloss looks flat compared to what was sprayed on.

Thanks
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rocnroll View Drop Down
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Points: 13584 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2022 at 3:08pm
Don't know what to tell you on that....SemiGloss shouldn't look flat.

That said, semi Gloss is too glossy for my taste on a frame....I always use Satin. I like it because after awhile when a touch up is needed, it can be sprayed in such a way as to 'freshen up existing Satin and look new-ish again.

That's personal preference on my part and you and others should use what they like.
'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"
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Points: 917 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan. 2022 at 8:35pm
As an alternative perspective to the perfection I am seeing displayed in the photos, along with the very real toxicity of 2-part coatings (calm down, I use them too, sometimes), I go the other way. 

I prep the metal best as I can and to whatever level I beforehand deem acceptable for the job. Then apply an adhesion coat of Penetrol followed by your basic enamel.
The Penetrol is very good for an adhesion coat- it will capillary into any and all minute voids, is not sensitive to many typical contaminates within reason in the dirt/dust/old oils category if you missed a spot, and is easy to work with and repair.
Enamel adheres very well to it. But the top coat is enamel, so whatever limitations enamel has is what you are left with. You do not need to strip a previous application, even years later, to re-finish. Just apply another adhesion coat and top coat. (Prep to your standard)
Of course I am not interested in a restoration you can eat off of or that can withstand the final apocalypse. Just a sensible level of service and visual appeal.
I paint my work trailers this way and get about 6 years in full weather and Colorado sun 24/7/365. The only reason I re-paint is paint fade, not failure. For a softer, less chip susceptible top coat add Penetrol to the top coat.


Edited by jhg - 09 Jan. 2022 at 8:38pm
1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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