Frankie - 1947 CJ2A |
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Lated
Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2018 Location: Somewheresville Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Posted: 18 Nov. 2018 at 2:17am |
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---------- To-do ---------- Priority Fixes - Functional brakes... - Emergency brake - Find electrical gremlins (lights, horn, wipers) - Modify driver's seat frame Eventually - Hook up speedometer - New brake shoes/drums - Dual reservoir master cylinder - Emergency brake (upgraded to Priority after complete brake failure! ) - Repatch holes in tub - Rework rear fender/seat clearance - Windshield glass - Figure out why the PO installed an electric fuel pump - Tail lights that I'm not embarrassed by... - Tailgate - Tires - Hood/windshield bumpers Wish List - Full cage - Disc brakes - Front and Rear selectable lockers (rear is already locked, possibly welded) - Separate line brakes for each rear - On board air (York) - Front and rear winches - Overdrive - Rear full floater conversion w/ selectable hubs Completed - Remove nasty carpet and plywood floors (Jan 19) - Windshield latches (Mar 19) - Battery hold-down (Mar 19) - Replace/rebuild wheel cylinders (Jul 19) - Check master cylinder (Jul 19) - Bleed brakes (Aug 19) ---------- ---------- I've wanted a flat fender for as long as I can remember and was finally able to convince the wife to let me bring one home. I bought a '47 2A about a month ago, and have had it sitting in the garage ever since. I promised my wife that I would drive it as is for a year before I started changing thins around, but so far I haven't been able to drive it at all other than up the driveway into the garage because it has almost zero brakes. My kids decided to name her "Frankie" because of the mishmash of parts (short for Frankenstein). Engine is a 283 from a '58 Impala or Bel Air, front seats and tail lights are early Mustang, and the steering column is out of a late '60s Oldsmobile of some variety. Sally was thrown around because of the Mustang parts but Frankie is what stuck. I don't like the lights so they'll get changed to something soon. The steering wheel is pretty nice, it is tilt and telescoping. I've found a few other things that will need to be addressed sooner or later. The front floor boards look solid from underneath, but when I pulled up the carpet I found plywood. The tailgate was welded up at some point. There is no emergency brake, and it still has the original single reservoir master cylinder.
Edited by Lated - 21 Aug. 2020 at 10:22pm |
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1947 CJ2A
1970 C-10 1985 FJ60 |
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Lated
Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2018 Location: Somewheresville Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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The brakes are job number one so that I can actually go for a
drive. The biggest issue I've found so far, is that the front wheel
cylinders are completely frozen. They're easy enough to pull off and
replace, but I haven't figured out where they came from yet. Both the
front and rear brakes have been upgraded to 11" drums at some point. I'm
pretty sure that at least the rear are off of a '76 to '78 CJ7 since
that's what's conveniently painted on the drums. I'm not sure about the
front though, and the cylinder bores are different sizes front to back.
I'm going to try to pull them off and soak them in ATF to see if they
can be honed and salvaged, but may end up having to replace them. This is the driver's side front. A little seepage around the piston, and all gunked up.
I'm leaning toward the Tracker disc swap sometime in the future, but time and money don't allow right now, and I'm not convinced that a 2500lb vehicle needs discs anyway. I want to see how the 11" drums do once they're actually functional and go from there. The backing plates for the rear drums have the hole for running an e-brake cable to them so I may try to see if I can rig something up. Even if I stick with the drums front and back, I'd like to switch to a dual reservoir master for peace of mind. I tried to see if the rear drums fit on the front and noticed another issue with the front. Someone replaced wheel studs, probably when the brakes were upgraded, and used studs with too long of a knurl since they weren't pressing a drum onto the hub. Now the front drums are warped around the stud holes since they forced them together, and some of them aren't even seated all the way. |
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1947 CJ2A
1970 C-10 1985 FJ60 |
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Lated
Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2018 Location: Somewheresville Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Any info on these hubs? I've never heard of Selectro, but I like the way the entire hub rotates to engage/disengage. |
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1947 CJ2A
1970 C-10 1985 FJ60 |
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Welcome to the the forum. I’m new to this myself so can’t be of much help. If you can find an old gray haired parts guy I’d take the wheel cylinders to the counter and see if they can Match them up. I don’t know but I can’t imagine there is that many variations. I have stock 9 in brakes on a stock Cj. They are adequate just barely. Good luck PS. I think maybe our wives are related.
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rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Online Points: 13611 |
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Frankie meet 'Frankie'.......same reason.
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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47 deuce alpha
Member Joined: 07 Aug. 2017 Location: Midland Texas Status: Offline Points: 656 |
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Welcome to the forum, looks like you're off to a good start. I have the same hubs on my 47 2A, except they are called Dualmatics. I think they are exactly the same, Sears also sold the same hub with their name on them. I haven't had any trouble with mine so far.
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1947 CJ2A 90419
1947 CJ2A 127735 1949 Ford 8N 1955 Kaiser Willys Pickup Half the distance takes you twice as long. |
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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11" brakes in good condition will give you plenty of braking power. Last February I was researching 11" brakes. To help consolidate the info and knowledge, I started this thread. I think you'll find it helpful.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Online Points: 4785 |
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Congrats on the acquisition (lol, those tail lights!)
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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Welcome! I like that it has Willys on the passenger side of the dash. Do you have a better photo of the front brakes? Perhaps someone will recognize them, unless you're going to discs and don't want to put any money into the drum setup. I have 11 inch brakes from a late 40's early 50's Ford F1. Found this out after I bought them
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rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Online Points: 13611 |
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For some reason I'm kinda digging the Oldsmobile steering wheel.
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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Greaser007
Member Joined: 16 Jan. 2018 Location: Anderson, Calif Status: Offline Points: 850 |
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Nice find !
I too like the tilt / telescopic steering column. When I built-up a '46 back in 1984, I installed a '76 Corvette column with t & t, shortened it for correct length and retained the key-in-column (same as the tilt in the '77 renegade which uses GM column - if you need parts ). Loved it with the power steering that I installed. On that little willys, I went through the complete brake system and for some reason, it seems I used slightly larger diameter Wheel Cylinders for more push on the shoes. The only problem I have seen with drum brakes, is after a wet creek crossing, do not try to climb the impossibly steep hill, because you may wind up going backwards into the creek. I saw that happen to a guy in a Land-Cruiser, and it was very frightening to see him rush backwards into an Oak Tree in the blink of an eye. It happened very quickly and scared us all. When dry the drums work fine. I saw one guy do a slow backwards roll-over in his CJ-5 attempting a short steep climb and didn't have enough momentum to get the rear over the top, and when he rolled backwards and hit the brakes, the jeep slowly tipped over backwards. He was on a slight off-camber which didn't help. That could have been you or me. I like those old chevy small blocks with the road-draft tube. I know that the 265 chevy had the road-draft tube, very simple, and good torque. And if you have the Rochester 2-jet, that is a great carb. Today, I finally got my '46 to run at idle ! Yeay. I am going to do a quick write-up on it this evening. It has the L134 with a Solex-clone carb which I am not sold on yet. Enjoy, and start saving up for the 'goodies' hahaha And get your Christmas list submitted early ! Len |
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Lated
Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2018 Location: Somewheresville Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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I added my current to-do list to my first post. Hopefully it will help motivate me to keep making progress.
I did some more googling and it sounds like these hubs were made by a company in Longmont, CO that is now part of Mile Marker. They're still available. These things gotta go! I shudder every time I see them, and they don't even sit flush to the tub. (Sorry, I haven't figure out how rotate images after they're uploaded) The steering wheel definitely makes it easier to climb in. The fabricobble job on the other end of it leaves a little to be desired though. I want to add a support to the shaft along the frame, and something stronger than a worm clamp holding the steering column in would be nice. I haven't gotten to the brakes yet. I pulled up the carpet under the pedals to check out the master cylinder and found that I had literal floor boards and got a little distracted. Both floor boards were covered by a 5/8" sheet of plywood that was screwed to the floor and had the gaps sealed with bondo. Since I'd already started pulling carpet out, I figured I might as well go ahead and finish the job. I pulled the seats and found that the entire bottom of the tub and fender wells was boxed in. Fun. I got it all yanked out last night. There weren't as many problems as I was afraid of, and it honestly looks like most of the current rust is because of the wood/carpet combo. With the exception of the welds around the top of the seat/fender clearancing on the passenger side, all the rust is just surface damage. Looks like someone was embarrassed by their welding skills and tried to hide it and the fact that this thing obviously saw some hard work at some point in its life. I'm not sure at this point if I'll end up repatching the areas in the tub or leave them as is. I think they add a little character and fit the name well. I may just fix the few holes I found and address the surface rust and leave the rest alone for now. Still don't like that there isn't a tailgate though. |
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1947 CJ2A
1970 C-10 1985 FJ60 |
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Lated
Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2018 Location: Somewheresville Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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I was able to pull the fuel tank out today and tackle the remaining carpet and plywood. I didn't realize there was a drain in the tank until I'd already pulled it out, but the Super Siphon I ordered came in yesterday and worked great. Driver's floorboard is definitely the worst but still tolerable for the time being. Only real issue I ran up against today is needing to further modify my already modified seat frame since the holes don't line up now that there is 3/4" less carpet/wood in the way. Hopefully I'll be able to get at the brakes tomorrow. |
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1947 CJ2A
1970 C-10 1985 FJ60 |
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TateC
Member Joined: 23 Feb. 2018 Location: SLC, Utah Status: Offline Points: 510 |
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I had a mess of a time removing carpet in my MB so I feel your pain, looks like you are making good progress.
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Tate Christensen
1941 Ford GP #9687 1943 Willys MB #263100 1944 Ford GPW #234613 1945 Willys CJ2A #10226 |
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Lated
Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2018 Location: Somewheresville Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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It's been a looooong time since I posted here--life happened. I finally got Frankie out of the garage in September of 2019. I replaced all four wheel cylinders, rebuilt the master cylinder, and bent up all new brake lines. The brakes "worked" for a few drives around the neighborhood, and I entered Frankie in a local car show. It was an extremely small show, and every vehicle ended up with a trophy. I won "Most Likely to Rust" and the guy with the MUTT parked next to me won "Most Likely to Break Down" trophy (technically I won it, but they didn't want to give me two) which he was not thrilled about at all. I drove the jeep to work a couple times after that and since Frankie was ostensibly working, I parked my FJ60 in the garage, and promptly tore it apart to fix some issues that had been put on hold for far too long. Literally the next week, the brakes started dragging and the brake lights were permanently on. I adjusted the brake push rod once someone on one of the FB groups told me it was probably too long and not letting the cylinder release pressure. Yep--brakes worked again for another trip to work. Then the next weekend I backed out of the driveway to discover I had zero brakes...at all. So it sat in the driveway since the garage was already occupied. The jheap has sat in the same spot until a couple weeks ago when I finished with |
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1947 CJ2A
1970 C-10 1985 FJ60 |
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jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
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I bought Brenan's disc brake set up, tracker up front and Fusion in the rear. Going with a dual M/C as well. Should be a great safe set up. are you still using the Mustang tail lights? I like them. They were very popular way back. I had them and also used Corvair tail lights. Rig looks good!!!
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Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
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Oldpappy
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4921 |
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I would be interested in the 11" backing plates if you want to sell them.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Lated
Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2018 Location: Somewheresville Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Thanks! I do still have the Mustang lights for now. I'm not really a fan of them, but they're currently functional and not super high on the priority list to change right now. I'll probably go with some of the flush mount trailer lights when the time comes to swap them out. Do you know what master you're going to use with the discs?
I'm hanging on to them for now for another back burner project. That reminds me, I forgot to mention in my last post that I rescued a 54 3B from a scrap yard in Delaware early last year. It was missing the engine and all the sheet metal except for the tub. Someone had cut the tub in half in at the "door" openings before I got to it, but the floor was already completely rotted out. Here it is as I brought it home. The Dana 44 that was under the parts jeep was swapped into Козел last year because the pinion in the 41 was shot. I'm also in the process of collecting parts to rebuild the Dana 25 out of the 3B. The 25 will be getting a NOS Dana 27 Powr-Lok that I picked up off ebay once I order the adapter from Herm. The discs will go on it as part of the rebuild, and then the whole thing will get swapped over as a complete unit. The little driving I got to do before the brakes gave out on my 2A was all 2-wheel drive because I gutted the front axle because the pinion was shot on it too, and the carrier bearings were toast. I suspect that the bearings were worn out at least in part due to the bearing caps having been installed on the wrong sides and upside down. Whatever it was that caused it, there was far too much shinny stuff in the gear oil. The axle shafts were also mismatched (can't remember what exactly they were now) and one of them had the wrong spindle bushings to go along with it so I pulled them out. The T90 and D18 out of the parts jeep were completely frozen up. Neither one would shift or rotate at all--probably from sitting in the rain for years. The transmission had been drained at some point, but never refilled (the drain plug is missing) so it was full of dirt and surface rust. I disassembled it last week and found out it was the front bearing that was locked up. Once it was out of the way things started moving a little bit. I have a feeling that not much in it is salvageable, but it was an interesting tear down anyway because I've never opened up a transmission before. The t-case seems to be in better condition. It was pretty dry inside, but there was a little fluid still in the case. It won't spin either, but I haven't torn it apart yet to figure out why. There was a PTO on it, that is also a little rusted up. Hopefully, a little more 50/50 Acetone/ATF will free it up. The rear PTO box was rusted up pretty bad too, but I hope new bearings will bring it back to life. The pile of rust in the picture came out of the back half of the PTO case. While I'm on the topic of drive train parts, I also picked up a couple granny-geared four speeds a couple days ago in PA. I now have a new to me T18 and an NP435--both Fords--a complete D18 (small hole) with parking brake, a complete D20, and an empty D20 case. The T18 will eventually end up in Козел along with a re-geared D20 stuffed with 18 guts and possibly the parking brake. I was on the lookout for an SM420 or 465, but I picked up all this stuff for about half the cost of what I could find a 465 for within reasonable driving distance. According to Novak's site, the Ford trans should bolt up to my Cheby engine with just a little modification. I wasn't prepared for how much larger the T18 would be than the T90. I knew they were a little bigger from looking at dimensions on the interwebs, and an extra gear obviously takes up a little more real estate; but I had no idea they would be this much bigger. This is a spare T18 cluster gear that came with my parts haul, and the cluster out of the T90 I tore apart last week. Huge difference. I also picked up a Kaiser Supersonic
engine (originally out of a Henry J if I'm not mistaken) last year that
will likely end up in the 3B frame once I decide for sure what I want to do with it. It does have a couple small cracks in the block between the water jacket and one of the head bolt holes, but it shouldn't be too terrible to fix once I have time to even consider doing so. |
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1947 CJ2A
1970 C-10 1985 FJ60 |
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