Freeze Plugs and the Gunk |
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scurvdogg
Member Joined: 23 Aug. 2010 Location: Monterey, CA Status: Offline Points: 121 |
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Posted: 12 Oct. 2013 at 6:57pm |
Freeze plug started leaking behind the oil filler tube.
drilled a hole in it and popped it out. It had rusted through on the bottom of the freeze plug. When I took the plug out there was a bunch of thick nasty junk. And here is the other freeze plug just above the starter, it is leaking as well. Questions: 1. Should there even be gunk in the water jacket? Should it be that much? I stuck my finger in it and there is a lot more. Is there a way to clean it out? 2. Is the freeze plug above the starter part of the water jacket? The reason I ask is that it seems to have an oily substance leaking from it. Whats weird is that I had the engine rebuilt and supposedly all cleaned up. It was done in 2003 and I just finally got it all put together and running, but after about 6 runs or so it started leaking. So I guess the dude never switched out the freeze plugs or cleaned out the water jacket?? thanks in advance!
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Adrian
Member Joined: 01 Oct. 2011 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 1517 |
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The gunk, rust scale etc is quite normal for and old engine. I would guess they were not removed during your rebuild.
I replaced all of mine with brass ones, they still do the same job but don't rust out. With as many plugs removed as you can get to you should be able to flush quite a bit of rubbish out, a high pressure water hose should get a lot out, the ultimate is a water blaster but I am nit sure what access you have if the engine is still in place. Adrian NZ
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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96 |
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Mike S
Member Joined: 20 May 2006 Location: West Coast Status: Offline Points: 2318 |
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Looks like the "rebuild" didn't include boiling the block and cleaning everything up. If you paid for a complete re-build, this should have been done as a first step after disassemby.
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'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear Lock-Right locker 11" drum brakes Dual master cylinder T90C Transmission 16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels Cooper STT Pro tires |
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scurvdogg
Member Joined: 23 Aug. 2010 Location: Monterey, CA Status: Offline Points: 121 |
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Adrian, Are you talking about just putting a hose into one of the holes and let it flush out the other holes? Do I need to worry about protecting the starter or anything like that from the water or is it okay to just let it get wet? thanks! |
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scurvdogg
Member Joined: 23 Aug. 2010 Location: Monterey, CA Status: Offline Points: 121 |
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yah I was not happy with the guy who did it. He kept trying to get money from me...even up until the point I picked it up, saying he forgot to charge me something. I have had a few problems since then such as leakage from the studs, these freeze plugs and the water jacket not being cleaned. Unfortunately I had it done in 2003 and didn't start working on the jeep until 2010 so by the time I found more problems I couldn't talk to him about it. He is also no longer there. |
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Adrian
Member Joined: 01 Oct. 2011 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 1517 |
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Scurvdog
I would pop out all the accessible frost plugs and try and flush the rubbish out, you won't get all of it this way but probably enough to prevent an overheating problem later. Cover the electrics up and I'd change the oil after you are done just in case water gets into the lube side of things. Adrian
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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96 |
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Oilleaker1
Member Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4412 |
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Been right where you are. The best way to clean it is to remove the waterpump off the front of the block and then hose/pressurewash in from the front with all the plugs out. That includes the block drain. I'd remove the starter and plug the hole into the bellhousing with a plastic bag. You'll get 99 % of the crap out with several flushings. Gaskets and soft plugs are cheap. The radiator may need some flushing out also. Might as well put in a new thermostat while you got it down. My '48 2A had green blobs of antifreeze in the oil. I was sick thinking the block was cracked until I noticed the soft plug above the oil fill was leaking down right into the engine like yours is. Scotchbrite the holes clean and permatex #2 the plugs as you put them in new. You'll be fine. John
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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scurvdogg
Member Joined: 23 Aug. 2010 Location: Monterey, CA Status: Offline Points: 121 |
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Good info guys! I am okay on the thermostat, I already bought a new one for it. As for the radiator I had it rebuilt, so I am good on that end as well. All I see leaking right now are the two plugs mentioned. Should I go ahead a replace all of them regardless if they need it or not? I have heard there is one that faces the firewall, don't know how I would get to that one without the tub off.
BTW, how many are there total? Thanks, Justin
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Oilleaker1
Member Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4412 |
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Justin, if they all have the same stampings, then they probably were put in at the same time. The upper ones may not have had crap sitting against them and are just fine. As to how many, some had two on the side and some had 4. Yours obviously had 4. Not sure on the rear of the block. That's one of those " I don't want to look" things. A mirror will answer your question. You'd obviously have to pull the engine or body to get at it if it has one in the rear. If you pull one of the uppers, I'd think it's condition would answer your question. When you install them clean with #2 permatex, you punch them just enough in the middle to set them. Don't beat them too far or they will get loose and fall out. With the water pump off, you can wash around behind the cylinders on the drivers side too. Pressure washers work great. You can blow it out with air also. Sounds like the rest is good to go. John
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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scurvdogg
Member Joined: 23 Aug. 2010 Location: Monterey, CA Status: Offline Points: 121 |
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Thanks John! Ill give it a go
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