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Front axle shaft endplay?

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smfulle View Drop Down
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    Posted: 08 May 2012 at 9:10pm
I am somewhat cofused about what I need to do to control the endplay on the outboard half of my front axleshafts.
The short shaft (passenger side) is a bendix style with no threaded end. According to Dr. Vern at Vernco.com:
 
 "Later style Bendix Joints, without the threaded ends, use a flanged bushing in the spindle to control endplay. With either style, the inboard half is restrained by a thrust washer in the end of the axle tube."
 
Yet on the Walcks site under the listing for the bushing it says; "Spindle Bushing that fits all models with the Rzeppa or Spicer front axle shafts. This bushing is bronze and goes in the spindle. These bushings are required if the Bendix style axle shafts are replaced with Spicer axles."
 
So does my Bendix axle need a flanged bushing or not?  I suspect it does require it because of the tendency for the Bendix axle to lengthen and shorten.
 
Next, on the long axle (driver's side), I have a Rzeppa style axle with the threads on the end. There was no nut on the threads when I disassembled the thing. Does that matter? Should I have the flanged bushing on the spindle for this axle?
 
What I found on disassembly on both sides are bushings in the spindles that do not have flanges. This doesn't really help me because I don't know what was orignal to this jeep and I know that my uncles did many, many Bubba style field repairs to keep the thing moving.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2012 at 9:13pm
I'm wanting to work on this today. Any danger of putting flanged bushings in a spindle that doesn't really need it? I just received two flanged bushing in a parts order yesterday and I want to get on with this.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2012 at 12:33am
I remember that axle end play has been discussed before, but I don't know the answer to your questions. Try a search of the forums.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2012 at 4:09pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

...The short shaft (passenger side) is a bendix style with no threaded end...So does my Bendix axle need a flanged bushing or not?...
Yes, it needs the flanged bushing.

Quote ... on the long axle (driver's side), I have a Rzeppa style axle with the threads on the end. There was no nut on the threads when I disassembled the thing. Does that matter?...
Yes, it needs the nut.

[quote]... Should I have the flanged bushing on the spindle for this axle? ...[quote]
Either one.  You still need the shims & nut.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2012 at 5:15pm

Thanks Sean, I didn't find that thread in my searches.

The one question remaining is, this jeep has locking hubs so there is no drive flange to be bolted down with the nut on the end of the axle. I can't really figure how the nut would control any endplay with a hub because I think it would just be holding the star gear from the hub to the axle; which can still float around inside the hub. Continuing on that theme, (and I'm probably overthinking this) it seems like adding shims under the hub would just increase the amount of endplay and make for a looser fitting axle.  Is the answer still the same with locking hubs? Nut and shims required for the threaded Rzeppa axle?

Again, thanks for all your excellent work and advice, and for your patience with those of us that are new to working on these old relics.

Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2012 at 5:32pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

... it seems like adding shims under the hub would just increase the amount of endplay and make for a looser fitting axle.  Is the answer still the same with locking hubs? Nut and shims required for the threaded Rzeppa axle?
Yes. A locking hub is just a replacement for the drive flange, but adjustment procedures remain the same: you still need "float control".

A bendix axle has inner & outer thrust faces, so float is limited by the inner thrust washer & outer flanged bushing.

An rzeppa does not have an inner thrust face, so inward float is controlled only by either a nut on the threaded type, or snap ring on the later type.

Shims are still needed on threaded axles to allow clearance for the axle bump stops.  ie, without shims, the bump stops may hit first, preventing it from floating outward far enough to auto-center.

Make sense?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2012 at 5:49pm
Yes, the fog is starting to clear! Lamp
Nut on axle end required to limit float towards center.
Shims required to ensure enough endplay (float) to allow axle to auto-center in turns.
 
Thanks!!  Guess I better find some shims and a nut.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2012 at 4:02pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

... Shims required to ensure enough endplay (float) to allow axle to auto-center in turns.
 
Thanks!!  Guess I better find some shims and a nut...
The issue is, to use that threaded rzeppa, you have to tighten the nut, so it's effectively no longer "free floating":  regardless of locking hub or drive flange, use 1 x .060" shim per factory spec.

While a flanged busing can be used, it does nothing in this case, so the stock non-flanged bushing is just as good.

Sean
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