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Front Spring Replacement

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jpet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2018 at 7:50pm
These are the best pics I could find:





Those were taken Nov 2011. I don't know if he still gets them from the same guy or not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Runs with Beer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2018 at 11:56pm
I just got my crown rear springs and they have a sticker on them saying made India.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan. 2018 at 2:10am
Well, last night I placed my order. I decided to give the Omix ones a shot. $73 each with free shipping from Summit. They also have a 5% rebate. It was hard to beat. I hope the quality is good. I will keep the original set in case they are not. Then I will look into getting them re-arched.
 
I hope to get them on soon after receiving them. I will update once they are on and when I get a few miles on them.
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2018 at 2:49am

Yesterday, I installed the springs. It was more of a task than I thought it would be. I would say it was a solid six hours to get it done. Plus, I whacked the hell out of my hand with a hammer.

It came apart relatively easy. The first one took a bit longer while I figured things out. I presoaked the nuts and bolts for several days before disassembly. Thankfully, nothing stripped or broke.

On the left spring was a wedge shaped ¼” spacer. The center stud appeared a little taller to accommodate it. I could not have gotten it on the new spring and have it seat correctly in the saddle. I’m not sure what is the function of this wedge.

I went with the Omix parts. There were some issues with them.

The springs looked ok. I really cannot make much of appraisal of them until I get some miles on them. While I did not measure, they appeared to be a bit wider than stock. I had to spread apart the rear mount to get the spring in there.

The front shackles appeared as good as original. Nothing much to say about them.

The rear pivot bolt is not designed correctly. It is too long and they drilled the cotter pin hole in the wrong position. Also, their castle nut is not as tall as the original. Initially, I stacked three 1/16 washers to get the hole to align with the nut. I went back and dropped down to one washer and the original nut. I probably should have just kept the original bolt in there. I didn’t see any wear but I would have hated to have one break while on the road. You never know with 70-year-old parts.

One thing for all the Omix parts which was crap were the Zerk fittings. I have no idea what wrench size they are. I tried metric and standard. Maybe they are Whitworth? One of them pulled out when I tried to remove the grease gun.

I completely forgot to measure the fender height before and after. I replaced the springs because my new shocks were 1 ½ to 2” from bottoming out at rest. After taking her out for a pounding in the hills to get the springs to settle, I think I have added 2 ½ to 3” of travel to the shocks.

I put a few street miles on her also. I took her up to 50 MPH and they did not induce any wobble into the steering. She did appear to be more stable in the corners and the ride was better.

After my ride in the hills, I think I may do the rear springs also.

 

 

Micah

 

Always up side down. I will never get them to work

1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2018 at 3:43am
You wonder why Crown can't get their India spring vendor to meet the Willys spring-eye spec? This isn't difficult for the guys forming the spring leaves in the metal shop. Just ensure that every spring eye fits the inner dimension of the rear spring mounts. Check it to fit inside an original mount before the spring pack is assembled. Easy.
And the castle nuts--they oughta be identical to the originals. Too many vintage jeep parts vendors accept "kinda fits" and "it's mostly good enough," leaving the rework to us, their customers.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb. 2018 at 5:34am
Just reading through the service manual (O13). I think the wedge shaped shim is actually for the adjustment of the Axel Caster. (see photo above)
 
I have some slop in the steering. Once I deal with that, I will take her in for an alignment. I wonder if the spring replacement negated the need for the shim.
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bufordjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb. 2018 at 11:32am
Thought I had a caster angle problem with a '75 CJ5 (erratic steering - turned out to be frozen ball joints).  Everything I'd read on using shims said to shim both leaf springs.  Find it odd that only one has a wedge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb. 2018 at 3:40pm
Nothing in the manual about having to do both sides. The measurements are wheel specific. So, the correction would just be for that wheels just as a passenger car.
 
It does state to use the shim if the problem is not resolved with new parts. I hope that new springs, bushings and shackles will have corrected this and the shim is no longer necessary.
 
It appeared to be just fine in the few miles I have driven it. I have steering wheel slop which I plan to work on next.
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb. 2018 at 4:13pm
You say the shim was on the passenger side?

One approach to reduce/eliminate the “Jeep Lean” is to add a shim to bring the axle closer to the body on the “high” side.  Is there a shim on the rear passenger side too?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb. 2018 at 4:33pm
Nope, driver. I have not noticed any lean. No shims anywhere else. I believe it was there just for castor adjustment.
Wouldn't a shim (lifting block) on the high side just make it higher? I would think a shim (lifting block) on the low side would be more appropriate, but it would throw the alignment off.
 
Micah
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https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb. 2018 at 5:29pm
I haven't had to shim to eliminate a lean, but my understanding is the shim would go between the spring pack and the axle...bringing the axle closer to the body...effectively dropping the body in relation to the axle.

Not sure why someone would need to adjust the castor on the CJ2A axle.  The axle was engineered with a built-in 1.5° positive castor.  Are the tires/wheels larger than stock?  If so, maybe the shim on the other side slipped out?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb. 2018 at 7:04pm
The front axle housing is a solid piece - if it's not broken. It is not possible to adjust caster on one side only. Using a shim on one side only would introduce twisting forces into the housing and the springs, which could lead to a broken housing or other problems. As for why there was only one, who knows what Bubba is up to? Could be, the missing shim broke and slipped out, and when Bubba noticed the u-bolts were loose, tightened them up, not knowing there had been shims installed.  
  When everything, springs, shackles, eye bushings, king-pin bearings, etc. are in good shape, the caster and camber will be correct, unless the housing, knuckle, or spindle is bent or broken. Wedge shims are the only way to adjust caster, and there is no way to adjust camber. When you get your steering tightened up, drive it. If it does not wander or pull, there's no need to pay for an alinement. I am an old alinement man and I'd love for you to bring it to my shop and pay me to aline it, but there's probably no need. You'd pay for an alinement (1 hour's labor) and get a toe-in adjustment (1/2 hour).  BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2018 at 1:42am
Bruce,
I keep forgetting there is a big stick connecting the two tires.
 
I just took her for a spin to get a burger. All is well without the shim. I have no idea why there was just one.
 
It does have bigger tires. I do plan to go back to stock.
 
So, we will see how things are when I rebuild the rest of the suspension.
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb. 2018 at 3:26am
I replaced all 4 springs with the Crown product... I ad to, since I was 'undoing' a spring over axle job done by the PO. I have no reason (yet) to complain. The Jeep is level.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doodledad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb. 2018 at 1:49pm
Glad to hear she feels good. Never in my 20 years of owning an off-road shop have I seen 1 differential shim placed for any reason. One on each side for caster or driveline angle purposes, yes but never just one. I imagine one fell out many moons ago. It’s just before 9 AM and now I want a burger. Man I love a good burger! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jijk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 4:09pm
I have these springs on my jeep and there is almost no movement.  I'll admit I don't know much about springs/spring rates etc.  What does removing the short spring offer?  

Thanks,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BGarth13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 5:20pm
Did you torque them loaded or unloaded.  I’ve always heard to install springs loose, and torque them with the weight of the Jeep on them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vidaliaman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep. 2018 at 8:32pm
Just bought my fronts and rears from 4wd.com, they sell crown, i installed my front crowns 2 days ago and very happy with them, i had an installation question, called 4wd and they gave me crown's number, their tech department was more than happy to answer my question, what great people

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