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Fuel line installation

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Dutch 1960 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 Feb. 2019 at 9:08pm
I am a long-time lurker and have gotten lots of help by reading threads.  I have not found anything on how to install the hard fuel line from the tank to the engine room.  I think I know the answer here, but I figure there might be some common knowledge or a trick to it that I do not know about.

I have a 2A VEC tub on a 3A/3B frame; the Jeep is complete, but I have had it in storage for about 20 years, and it had obviously been tucked away for a long time before that.  So there is a lot of small stuff to do on this one.

I popped for a nice set of 2A fuel lines, as I had Bubba'd a line for it 20 years ago, out of a length of brake line.  Back when, I gave the tube a bit of an arc, and basically headed from rear to front, steering the end of the line up and to the left, until the front end of it showed up to the left of the steering box, then added a couple of slight bends here and there, then angled up the front end of it towards the fuel pump, and a 90 degree bend to the tank in the back.  Easy-Peasy, 20 minutes or so.  Did a couple of Jeeps that way back when, never any issues.

This new line, it looked great in the bag, all the bends, big and little, everything done.  But after an hour of fighting the battle, and inadvertently adding more ugly bends and twists to the thing, I think I am giving up.

I have come to the conclusion that these pre-made lines are great if you are willing to rip out all the pedal assembly and exhaust system, and maybe the driveline, but if you want to do this with everything on the Jeep basically in place, you are out of luck.  The sharply bent tube ends mean that you can't really just run the line along the path that it goes, instead there is a lot of hooking and fitting that require a bunch of the Jeep to not be in the way of it.

Is there a trick to it, or is going back to a straight brake line tube the better option for me?  I have the brake line sitting right here, ready to go.  This Jeep is to be a driver, not a show Jeep.  I am interested in making it tidy and functional, not exact and original in all the small things.  Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance.
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64CJ5 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64CJ5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb. 2019 at 9:31pm
I needed a new fuel line on my M38 conversion.  I measured and used black flexible gas line hose.  It was easy to snake in to where it needed to go.  I used zip ties to hold it in place.    
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Ol' Unreliable View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb. 2019 at 10:05pm
Welcome to the page, Dutch 1960! 

Last time I messed with fuel line, I changed mine to 5/16" all the way.  I had to run the line from the drain sump instead of the original location, but I wanted the larger diameter line, so that's what's there now.  I just bought about a 6' length of tubing from my FLAPS and bent it to fit.  Cut off the flare on the end near the fuel pump and run it into rubber hose for a flex section.  I did clamp it down where it appeared to vibrate too much when I tapped it. 

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bobevans View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb. 2019 at 11:03pm
There's a pretty good picture on the 3A page of an existing fuel line that shows where to snake it through and where to tie it down. http://www.cj3a.info/tech/line.html

'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb. 2019 at 11:22pm
While lying under the Willys, I've found that if I feed it through the tub support gusset first, and somewhat aggressively twisting the line, it will eventually find its way into position. Even this will require quite a bit of flexing the line while it's being fed in.  Some rebending will likely be needed.Wink
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
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Dutch 1960 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dutch 1960 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb. 2019 at 11:43pm
all good info.  Athawk11, do you feed the line back-to-front or front-to-back?  I have been trying back-to-front and I am totally stymied.  Maybe if I pull the LF fender and attack it from the front and outside through the toe brace hole?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb. 2019 at 12:16am
I feed them from back to front.  I was up and down a few times while feeding the line. Tugging from up top.  Back down to twist...and so on.  Removing the driver fender might help reduce paint damage and having to reshape the line as much.

Good luck. 
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2019 at 5:09am
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IronAge52 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2019 at 2:17am
Hi,
I see you are in San Diego, so am I
I have a original CJ2A AND m38  you should come over and check it out in person.
PM ms for address.
Tim Hunt is also here in town and has a very original CJ2a Tim is also long term member of the 2a page.
Jerry
gearwrencher
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Dutch 1960 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dutch 1960 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2019 at 11:34am
Thanks, all, and PM sent, Jerry.  I am motivated to tackle the fuel line thing again this weekend.. I’ll get it done one way or the other, and report back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dutch 1960 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2019 at 7:48pm
Got the fuel line installed. Pulling the LF fender helped a lot. I was still tempted to go with the NAPA brake line, but I found the aluminum line easier to bend and flex slightly, without tools, and I already had it.  Rear-to-front was the way I went with it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2019 at 10:03pm
Great! Thanks for letting us know how it turned out.

'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2019 at 11:19pm
Aluminum line?! Shocked  BW
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb. 2019 at 12:24am
I went with the Omix. Pre-bent. Included insulators, flexible section, clips and the line from the carb to the pump. Slid right in place with minimal tweaking.
One of the few parts they sell that worked OK.
 http://www.omix-ada.com/catalogsearch/result/?chassis=122&q=fuel+line
Micah

Edited by Steelyard Blues - 18 Feb. 2019 at 12:26am
1947 CJ2A, Body & Frame: 106327, Engine: J109205, Tub and Tailgate: 97077. Originally Luzon Red

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb. 2019 at 2:36pm
I bought a Rigid double flair tool and a nice bender. It makes fuel and brake lines cheap and easy. You can then just add a fitting where it's convenient. 
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