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mario View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14 Aug. 2018 at 3:02am
hello to all; I think I am getting evaporation of my fuel within the foil covered tube going from my fuel pump to my carb. Just a guess. Weather has been equatorial hot these days and after say 10 minutes of driving, jeep begins to sputter with increasing frequency, then ultimately stop.   Let it cool down and starts up again. Old time mechanic prescribed 4 or 5 wooden close pins attached to the line as a heat dissipater. I'm thinking of an in line electric fuel pump. Both motor and carb have been rebuilt. and jeep has a brand new fuel pump. Maybe old carter carb is just too old;(70 years), or maybe electric fuel pump will solve the problem. Any thoughts ?

Mario
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug. 2018 at 3:10am
Condenser! Or perhaps the coil. The next time this happens check to be sure that you are getting spark. Also check that the coil is not excessively hot. Use the back of your hand & slowly bring your hand close to the coil. If it is scalding hot, that is your problem. You can check the condenser the same way.

It has been said that 90% of fuel problems are electrical. That saying has a lot of merit.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.
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mario View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mario Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug. 2018 at 12:31pm
why would my coil be hot?
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mario View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mario Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug. 2018 at 12:51pm
In addition' i failed to mention that I replaced the stock points and coil with the pointless electronic system and the new coil that came with it. As you know, the coil is mounted under the dash board which would not be great for heat dissipation if that is the problem
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug. 2018 at 1:22pm
Originally posted by mario mario wrote:

why would my coil be hot?


It would be hot because it has an internal short. It can be bad right out of the box. Just because it is new does not mean it is a good part.

IME, Electronic ignition usually either works, or fails completely. It almost never has an intermittent problem.

One thing to check on the fuel system is the gas cap. Try this, remove the gas cap & drive the Jeep. If the problem is solved, your gas cap is not venting.

Again, IHTH, Cpt Logger.

PS, Have you checked for spark after it dies yet?
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mario View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mario Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug. 2018 at 2:31pm
Thank you; I will try both spark testing as well as gas cap. Is it possible that the foil covered gas line from the fuel pump to carb is not doing its job? The symptom of slowly progressive chugging as if it was gas starving , until final stop seems to my minds eye as possible. After fighting with that hidden coil while upside down on my back makes that cause desirable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 1:44am
If the gas cap is not venting, the fuel pump will pull gas out of the tank until the vacuum in the tank is enough that it can no longer pull fuel out & then the engine will act like it is running out of gas. That is because it is! This usually happens after 5-10 minutes of run time depending on a lot of things.

Not the least of these, is how much fuel is in the tank. The fuller the tank the quicker it happens. A newer, stronger fuel pump can pull more of a vacuum, thus going for a longer time before the engine starves for fuel.

Letting the rig sit for awhile lets the vacuum escape from the tank & you can drive again, for a little bit. Then the process starts all over again.

Heck, check the spark at the distributor, or at a spark plug, do not work too hard.

I suppose that that line could be the issue, but I doubt it. IME, That usually takes at least 30 minutes. At least for me, it does.

Do these easy tests & get back to us. We can guess all week long without these tests.

let us know what you find. Thanks, Cpt Logger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doodledad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 2:17am
food for thought. If you have the stock heat flap and  mechanism in your manifold make sure it’s not staying open causing excessive heat to boil the fuel in carb, I have seen this happen. All the suggestions prior are good advise, good luck. 
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 2:46am
  The clothespin trick is an old wive's tale. Wood is a non-conductor of heat, and if it did conduct heat, it would conduct from the hot place (air from the radiator, surrounding the engine) to the cool place (fuel inside the line). The only thing they might do, is insulate that little bit of line covered by them from that hot air.
  The tin-foil is not much better. It might help some, but is a Band-Aid used to try to fix a problem somewhere else. You might as well line your hat with it.  BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff_Davis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 2:24pm
IMO the electric fuel pump is overkill in most situations.  Focus on the other things mentioned above.  A properly working original AC pump delivers plenty of fuel, at the correct low pressure, to your little 134 cu inch engine.  

The Foil on the fuel line is a bit of a red herring, too.  I've seen all kind of weird plumbing jobs between the pump and the carb.  Check the routing of the line against some photos of original engines in the Manual - is it too close to the exhaust manifold?

You mention that your coil is still under the panel.  Prior to the Pertronix coil and electronic "points" conversion,  were you using the original "key-coil" unit??  If so, that was a 6V coil.  Your system has been converted to 12v, right?   While the new Pertronix coil could be moved into the engine compartment, the ambient temp under the panel is probably lower than in the engine compartment (and looks "more original").
Jeff
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