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Fuel Tank - Refurbish or Replace?

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jgodfrey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jgodfrey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fuel Tank - Refurbish or Replace?
    Posted: 14 June 2021 at 4:19pm
When I pulled my tank it appeared to be in good condition.  I then had it media blasted and he felt it was in good shape as well.

However, all of the fuel and dried and left me with a brown powder on the inside.  As far as I know it never leaked in all the years we've had it.

My gut tells me to clean it out and put it back in.  But I called a shop that specializes in tank renewal and they want $250 to clean and seal the tank.  I am sure they do good work, as they come highly recommended, but wow I can buy a good replacement tank from Walck's for $183.

Since this has been media blasted, which only cost me about $20, I need to get some primer on it ASAP.  So I am curious what thoughts are on using an original tank vs one of the replacements.

Do I clean it out and see if it leaks - and if it doesn't, skip the sealing process?  I am not sure how these were built and if they need to be sealed, etc.

Thanks
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Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2021 at 11:37pm
My original tank was very rusty inside. I flushed it out as best as I could using ZEP purple degreaser. I decided to give it a shot. Initially, my glass bowl fuel pump screen used to get a 1/4" of rust chunks in it. I installed a filter after it and one filter was in the carb inlet. I had to repeatedly clean the filters for the first year. Never got to the point that it plugged anything up. Almost four years now, I only get a little bit of fine particles in the fuel filter after two or three tanks. 

After flushing out, I would consider sloshing around some phosphoric acid and rinsing a final time. 

Try it, you have nothing to lose.

Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michaeltru Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2021 at 1:45am
There are a number of kits available from POR, Eastwood, Bill Hirsch for cleaning out the tank, etching and sealing it.  Have no experience with any of them, but have read good reviews
Mike in AZ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2021 at 11:09am
The tank from my 47 was pretty cruddy inside with a heavy coating of flakey rusty dried fuel. It had sat for 10 years with the old fuel turning to varnish.

It didn't leak, so I decided to try cleaning it out. I saw on a couple of forums for old cars that people claimed good results using "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner for this. So, that is what I tried. Found a two bottle pack at Lowes for about $4.

I pug plugs in both fittings, poured in both bottles of the cleaner, filled the tank the rest of the way with water and let it sit outside in the sun for four hours going out and sloshing it around a number of times.

When I dumped the mixture and rinsed the tank thoroughly I was surprised to see bright shiny metal on the inside. I rinsed it until no debris came out, then filled the tank again with baking soda and water to kill the acid. I let that sit an hour rinsed it again, and blew compressed air in it and let it sit in the sun until it was dry inside. 

I was pleased with how well it cleaned up, but then found an area where the rust was all that kept it from leaking. With the rust removed I had a few tiny pin holes on the bottom. I could have patched these, but decided to just buy a replacement tank. A friend of mine did take the old tank, patched it, and has been running his Jeep with it for about a year with no problem.

So, it can be cleaned up without spending a fortune on product. 

The replacement tanks are a good value, but sometimes do need a little tweaking to fit right. I installed one on the 47 and had to adjust the filler neck just a little to get it to center in the hole on the body so I could install the rubber grommet. I did this by inserting a piece of 2" water pipe as a lever and bend the neck until it was centered. It wasn't difficult.

The replacement tank I just put into my 67 CJ5 fits perfectly, no adjustments needed. 
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldmansimek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2021 at 1:24pm
Gas Tank Sealer - Gas Tank Liner - Diesel Tank Sealer - Fiberglass Tank Sealer (kbs-coatings.com)

This is the best one I have used, you do need to follow the instructions exactly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Norris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2021 at 8:53pm
My original tank was just like that. Took it to the local radiator shop to have it cleaned and sealed. That was 21 years ago and no issues. 

Bill
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote windyhill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 June 2021 at 12:50pm

Load it with small rocks and some thinner and shake the hell out of it.  Rinse and repeat. It should clean up nicely.  Paint the outside and use it.   



Edited by windyhill - 16 June 2021 at 12:52pm
'48 CJ2A
'53 CJ3B
'59 CJ6
'65 CJ5
'67 CJ5
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Bitz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bitz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 June 2021 at 11:38am
I have pulled mine and am having a local place near Twin Cities rework it. Around $175 but they actually cut it in half clean it up and reseal the inside and repaint the outside. I have also talked to my local rad shop he told me never ever use the home remedies or kits that boil it out.  Says they can’t reseal it properly and the kits “can” cause lots of issues down the road. 

Just my thoughts 

Bitz
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 June 2021 at 12:23pm
On a tractor forum I used to frequent someone had recommended jacking up the rear wheel, and attaching the tank to the wheel with a section of chain inside and then let the wheel tumble the chain inside. I didn't want to attempt that with my tank.

Someone else greatly misunderstood his directions and attached the chain to a lug nut with the tank on the floor and the rest of the chain inside. 

Of course this was a disaster, you don't want to be anywhere near a tractor flinging a gas tank around until the chain comes out and flails everything within reach.
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred46 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2021 at 11:08am
I recently bought a ‘61 Willys Pickup and removed the tank to clean/seal just because. It had about a gallon of old fuel/varnish in the tank. Dumped the rusty red stuff, let air dry and debris from the last 50 years was sliding around inside. Removed all plugs/fittings/sender took to local radiator shop. He flushed, cleaned out, sealed.  All for $60. When done and testing he found the pick up pipe badly rusted through and the in tank factory ‘thimble’ filter clogged.  So he replaced that then sealed again. Around here we use a local product..... 
That is very user friendly. I’ve used before myself on CJ and tractor tanks.  
Then I bring home and brush 2 coats of PUR-15 on the exterior.  
Installing today. 

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