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G503 Fuel Sump

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    Posted: 01 May 2014 at 5:05pm
Hi All,
I'm trying to make some drawings for the MB/GPW fuel tank sump:





I pulled my geometry from two tubs that I have but what is left of the sumps is practically unusable for collecting data.  The best I can tell from the remnants I have is that the sump is equally deep at about 5-1/6" from bottom of floor to bottom of the sump in 3 corners, but the outward front corner is about 4-5/16" tall:





.... can someone with a good sump confirm this for me please?  I just need a measurement from underneath the tub as shown in my drawings.  Thanks!

Edited by jpet - 20 Dec. 2019 at 2:59pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2014 at 1:38am
Jeff, did you get my measurements? I think the ones you have are close, but it seems they planned on the water draining to the rear sump cap where the fuel tank drain plug is.  John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2014 at 3:49am
Got your measurements John.  Thanks!



I wouldn't say these dimensions are "dead nuts" but they are pretty close and the work out geometrically with the tank and the floor boards.





If anyone with an original sump in good condition wants to debate a dimension, I'll make the corrections.

Edited by jpet - 20 Dec. 2019 at 3:05pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2014 at 4:12am




Edited by jpet - 20 Dec. 2019 at 3:06pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2014 at 3:12am


Normally I would make some hammer formes for these end panels but since I don't have absolute confirmation that my dimensions are correct, and since I'm making this sump for my modified project, and since these edges are not going to be seen anyway, I decided to cut these slots and bend the edges over one at a time.





Hammered the radius edge around some aluminum round stock:



On the first end panel, I bent the straight edges first and then hammered the radius edges. For the second panel, I decided to do the radii first so it would be easier to put in a press break:





After all the flanges were bent up, I welded up and ground the slits. Not perfect work but good enough for an area that will not be seen. Both panels took 2 hours to make. With any luck, I'll be able to do the floor tomorrow.




Edited by jpet - 20 Dec. 2019 at 3:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CHARLIE JEEP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2014 at 8:47pm
Genius !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ClapClapClapClapClapClap 

An example for everybody !!Thanks for show us how to work !

Cheers,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2014 at 3:29am
Floor:



This is a piece 19" x about 27" long. I went extra long to give me some room for miscalculation.



.... now if I were making more than one and if I were not so impatient, i'd make some proper fixtures and use tooling more suitable to this purpose but I'm trying to get this done before and after work and in lunch hour so to make the radii in the floor I used a 3" OD pipe and squeezed it with clamps into a piece if angle iron.

Having it to do over again, I would have used a slightly smaller diameter, over bent it and then stretched it back out to the correct radius



..... nonetheless, you don't have to be too worried if it's not too tight, ....



.... because afterwards I drilled 3/16" holes about 2 inches apart and bolted the pieces together.



That caused the metal to pull up together nicely.



When I'm finished shaping all the metal, I will remove the bolts one at a time and make faux spot welds in the holes. To make the radius in the top back lip, I used a 2" pipe.

Next, I unbolt the assembly and bend the outside lip,



I couldn't make the second bend all the way in the press brake ....



...... so I bent it as far as I could and hammered it the rest if the way around a piece of bar stock



.... I left the edge a little long. I'll trim it to length when I'm finished

...... more to come ......



Edited by jpet - 20 Dec. 2019 at 3:38pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2014 at 3:38am
The inner edge is a bit more irritating





Because the sump has such a complex shape, it doesn't always fit in the brake so I bend it as far as I can and hammer form it square.







.... well I'm out of time hopefully I can finish this up tomorrow.

I suppose I'll have to guess at the dimensions for the guard under the rear drain as mine is long gone.

Edited by jpet - 20 Dec. 2019 at 3:47pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2014 at 1:15pm
... starting to shape up:


Edited by jpet - 20 Dec. 2019 at 3:52pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2014 at 2:45pm
Nice work, Jeff.. Is that a press brake or a standard manually operated box and pan leaf style brake?
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2014 at 2:51pm
Originally posted by F Bill F Bill wrote:

.... Is that a press brake or a standard manually operated box and pan leaf style brake?
..... IDK  its a bending .. thingy .. where you put metal in it, clamp it down and pull the lever until the metal is bent to the desired angle .... Geek
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dennisanvil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2014 at 1:44am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

Originally posted by F Bill F Bill wrote:

.... Is that a press brake or a standard manually operated box and pan leaf style brake?
..... IDK  its a bending .. thingy .. where you put metal in it, clamp it down and pull the lever until the metal is bent to the desired angle .... Geek
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2014 at 2:18am
Attached some original drain cap flanges.



All that is left to make is the guard for the rear drain. The only information I have is this old flange remnant:



.... so the only accurate data I have is that the back end of the guard was 2-1/2" from the edge of the sump. Not much to go on. I'll have to reconstruct on from pictures off the internet.

Edited by jpet - 20 Dec. 2019 at 4:14pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2014 at 2:18pm
Drain guard:



This is a down and dirty setup.  Like I said before,  This sump is going on a non critical jeep.  If I were picky, I'd take the time to make proper fixtures.

First, I made a couple of dies.  With a lack of information, I guessed the radius of the guard to be 1-3/4" so I took a piece of 3-1/2" OD pipe and cut it in a wedge like so.  It would have been better if the pipe had 1/2" wall but this was all we had on the shelf.  I also took a piece of round stock and turned it down to 3.4" diameter to allow for the thickness of the metal.

I just started working the shape in:



...... I cut this inner wedge thinking it would give me the clearance I need to hammer the flanges but then realized it works better with a piece of round stock:



..... It would work better yet if I had sawed the inner round stock in half so you can get your hammer in to flatten the edges.  I just kept moving the stock back out of the way as I formed the flange.



outer flange:



after the guard is finished, you will have to reform the flange a little to follow the contour of the sump floor.  I just put it in a vice and gave it a tweak here and there:



.... then, spot weld it on:



for these spot welds I did the normal way where you drill a hole in just one piece of metal and the weld it from the hole side.  If you remember, I drilled through both pieces when I welded the sides to the floor so that I could bolt it together.  Next time I will likely just drill out a couple here and there to hold it together and get the proper clamps so that I can reach in and weld it using the "one hole" method.  Anywho ..... all done:



.... not perfect but better than what I started with wouldn't you say?



Next time, I will do a few things differently but now I know what I'm doing.  Thanks for reading.



Edited by jpet - 20 Dec. 2019 at 4:12pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dennisanvil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2014 at 2:32pm
jeff
that is great work. i have learn a thing or two about forming metal. Thumbs UpThumbs Up 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2014 at 5:54pm
Amazing. All that and you can sing too!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2014 at 7:43pm
Jeff, your sump looks every bit as good as MD Juans! Do not say it's down and dirty. Remember-----OD paint makes all of us experts since you can't see much in the paint. I always said I restored mine back to perfect concours condition. That's with standard GI runs and dents!LOL John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2014 at 9:19pm
Actually, the MD Juan sump for $90 is a pretty good deal. My time is worth a lot more than that but then if you don't make it yourself you don't learn nuthin.
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