Go-Devil Oil Filter Canister Plumbed Backwards |
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Seakaye12
Member Joined: 21 May 2019 Location: SoCal Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Posted: 24 May 2019 at 5:52am |
Hello All; my first post on this wonderful forum! Thanks to you all for sharing your knowledge! I have been looking over a friends CJ-2A. I noticed that the oil filter canister has been moved from the stock position adjacent to the oil filler tube on the passenger side of the block to the drivers side fender. I suspect this was done back when the generator was scrapped and replaced with an alternator. In looking over the inlet and outlet hoses....I see that they are installed in reverse to what they should be! The inlet hose from the oil galley is connected to the BOTTOM connector of the canister.....and the return hose going to the timing chain cover area is connected to the TOP of the canister. My question to you all is: What effect has this been having on oil flow, filtration, and oil pressure? Is it a serious concern that should be immediately addressed or is it no big deal? It appears that it has been this way for many many years; probably decades. I have a couple of pictures attached. Thanks in advance for reading this! Chuck |
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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OK, I'll have a crack.
The correct connection will result in dirty oil entering the canister, being filtered through the element, then clean oil passing through the tiny hole in the central column, and being returned to the timing cover port. If it's connected in reverse, that would mean that dirty oil is entering the canister from the bottom, and the same dirty oil is having to pass through the tiny hole in the central column before it is filtered through the element and on to the outside of the canister. I don't know the size of that tiny hole in the central column, but it is small, and I bet that it would block pretty quickly if it is exposed to unfiltered oil. End result - blockage very early after a service and ineffective to zero filtration thereafter until it is properly cleaned out and serviced again. That being said these are bypass filters, and I believe they only filter around 10% of the oil at a time, so filtering 0% rather than 10% is not a show stopper. Some people run them with no filters on at all. Not my recommendation, but it can be done.
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Well dirty oil under almost no pressure has no problem fitting through gaps of maybe a thousands of an inch to a couple thousands between real seals and any gasket on an engine. So the hole which is at least 60 thousands in the filter would not even slow down dirty oil at 20 psi. IMHO
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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Have you seen the mesh size in the pickup screen? Anything smaller than that mesh opening will go through into the pressurised oil system. And I'm pretty sure that those particles would clog that hole in the oil canister centre stem if coming from the inside out.
Just because some oil can (and will) leak past a seal doesn't mean that there is no particle in the oil that is larger than the seal clearance.
Edited by JeepSaffer - 24 May 2019 at 8:08pm |
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3192 |
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If it were me, I would take down the setup you have now and flush out the canister and oil lines and plumb it correctly. The hardware to put it to an OEM configuration is readily available through various suppliers. (Walcks, Kaiser-Willys, etc.) Changing the oil and filter goes without saying...
If you were really wanting to do the job up right, in my opinion, you would pull the pan and flush the oil input screen. If you went that far, you should also make sure the intake assembly where it bolts to the block has not sagged. If it has then it needs to be straightened up with a file (flush after filing) and sealed to the block with a gasket and #2 Permatex. BTW, nice looking cat... Edited by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A - 24 May 2019 at 9:10pm |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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67charger
Member Joined: 27 Sep. 2011 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 1272 |
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I agree with the above post. There is a reason willys plumbed it the way they did from the factory. Also i took my pan off and filed just a little bit on my pickup flange which had a slight warp and the oil pressure is noticeably better from 30 psi to 45 at hot idle 180 temp. Also, it only takes you 20 minutes to pull the pan.
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cjbilly
Member Joined: 06 July 2014 Location: East Central IN Status: Offline Points: 312 |
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Probably a day late and dollar short on responding. Forgot I saved this diagram in my Willys folder.
Edited by cjbilly - 14 July 2021 at 9:51am |
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1984 CJ7
1946 CJ2A- Supersonic motor 1948 CJ2A- Ramsey DP-1 shifter,PTO,front Ramsey MX200-R winch, Newgren lift 1955 Sears Trailer 1955 CJ5- PTO/belt drive,farm weight 1954 CJ3B- trencher,front blade |
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