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Greaser007's '46 CJ2A - "Gemma" project

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2019 at 6:58pm
Thanks Lhead !

   I am about 7-hours north of Turlock, and today, jan 12, i just read your thread, and the CL listing is gone.

   I have been quietly waiting for a good used tank to show up locally, but so far, no such luck.

   Now, knowing i must at some point disassemble my T-90 trans, i watched my first Rick Stiver's video this morning.



Rick is using a sealed bearing on the input shaft. I am actually happy to see that he uses the sealed bearing.
The manual 5-speed transmission in my son's 1994 Suzuki Sidekick utilizes sealed bearings from the factory. When i ordered a new input shaft and bearing for the first rebuild, the trans shop handed me a non-sealed bearing for the input. I mentioned that the original was sealed and he says not to worry.
Well, 2-years later, the trans is making noise and then the clutch quits.   We pull transmission, and open it up (split lengthwise down the middle like a VW bug but horiz rather than a vertical split. The non-sealed bearing had gone bad and the vibration caused the center of the clutch disk to fracture and come apart in several pieces, and that was when the clutch quit.
    The second rebuild, maybe 6-years back i installed a sealed bearing, and have not had any issues since.
    Therefore, when i rebuild my T-90, i will be using a sealed bearing.

    No work so far this year 2019 on my '46 because i have been diverting funds to a 1995 Honda Passport refurb. The '95 Passport would be "tight" with a Dana 44 solid front axle conversion with long-arm 4-link sourced from a cheap '90's vintage Jeep Cherokee that has the Rubicon-Express kit.
    During the '90's on the Rubicon Trail, some of the most graceful rigs were the '90's Cherokee's with the Tera-Low gearset and Long-arm 4-links and having the hissing of front and rear ARB air-lockers. very Interesting.
    Rubicon history of my travels there:
    The wife and i, 3-kids, the Airdale and the Shnauzer would be stuffed into the jeep and we Were loaded to the guills for our 4-day-stay either at Spyder Lake or Buck-Island Resivoir. We would go in 1-day ahead of the Jeepers Jamboree, so we could watch them all go-by and visit with the people.
    Very good memories of back-country family camping.
    My first year through the Rubicon was summer of 1983 in my '77 CJ-7 with 304 V-8 and 3-spd transmission. What-a-Chore !! and with 4:10 gears too.
    You guessed it ! that winter i phoned Novak and had them send me a T-18 adapter for the Ford, because the 304 bellhousing is compatible with the Ford bolt layout and input retainer diameter. The only one-thing which must be adressed is the Pilot bearing, which Novak supplies the necessary bushing to make this work. So, 1984 with T-18 transmission with the 6:1 Grannie gear made the trail a pleasure to crawl comfortably along. We still ride the brakes in the tough places just as you would with an automatic, so no difference other than juice-vs-mechanical trans.
    Our Last Year to run the Rubicon was summer of 2001. that's been awhile.
    
    i am still dreaming of making forward progress on my '46 Willys as it sits idly under a canopy. But, i do get to enjoy admiring it each day as i walk past it to my home shop. (a converted barn, which i had a cement floor poured in).
    That is it for my Ramblings of my thoughts and my Willys, Gemma the jeep.
    Jan 12, 2019

    Len

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2019 at 7:24pm
   I had another brain surge:

   I thought i would share a photo of the T-90 transmission, with T-18 T-case, and the Warn Overdrive unit.




   This was a shaky purchase because as i mentioned in an earlier thread, the seller told me it was sold, but i gave him my phone number in-case the sale went sour. Sure enough, in 2-weeks he called and said i could have it.
   The input is currently set-up with the long shaft and came with the V-6 adapter too. I doubt i will be using the V-6 stuff, so at some point it will get sold-off, but not yet ready to part-company with the stuff. I have not yet unpacked it but have removed the shift-tower to count the input teeth (18).
The inside of the tranny looks remarkable, and am very pleased.

   I sure hope to divert some Attention to my Gemma-the-jeep soon. (April).
Yes, i will be waiting until April to purchase my new gas tank.

   I am open to suggestions for a good tank to purchase !

   One Concern of the Walch's tank !
   There is a notice that the tank is not INTENDED for use with ethanol fuels.

    Hmm, so do i just go ahead and run-it. Or, with the ethanol, am i going to have to spend $50 for some tank sealer ?

    Len
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2019 at 5:21pm
Finally, I have done something on my Gemma-the-Jeep project !    Yeay _ _ _

I was invited to take two GPW engine block, crank, camshsaft packages up to Camp Plymouth at the Amador County fairgrounds last Friday by Doug O'Neil from the "g503" and "oldwillys" forums. While up there, I purchased a fuel tank for my '46 cj2a.   Oh, and I picked up a T-90 front bearing retainer for my T-18 to L134 conversion project, which is moving slowly.
   Also, too, I picked up a nice set of 4-connecting rods for L134.

Below, is a link to a thread I wrote-up today explaining and showing the fuel tank repair to re-solder the fuel bung fitting, and the bracket that secures the tank to the floor of the willys at the rear of the tank. No Explosions !

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/topic44648_post448220.html#448220

I purchased the T-90 front bearing retainer to use for measuring and mock-up of a modified retainer requiring the T-18 front retainer to be turned down to accept the "snout" of the T-90.   And what my idea here is, is to have a machine shop turn me a T-90 sized snout and slide it into the re-machined Ford T-18 front retainer, and then "sweating" the new snout into the re-machined Ford front retainer.   Sounds easy right !   _ _ _ we'll see later-on.

Below is shown my re-soldered fuel outlet bung and rear hold-down bracket:


Yours truly :)   _ _ _ the happy welder. (don't worry, be Happy)


Ok, so after several hours and lots of meticulous cleaning, it's Done.


Finally got that rear hold-down bracket cleaned and re-soldered !
Very interesting being my first-time to use a torch on a Fuel Tank. whew.
Now, at least I know I won't kill myself if wishing to repair a fuel tank.
   Attempt these repairs with Caution and Good-Faith.   :)

   I guess now, I must order up some strips to set the tank on and proper hold-down straps and brackets to secure the tank. Then after that is to figure out what I am going to do for fuel line routing and will probably use brake lines to custom-bend from tank to fuel-pump !   _ _ _ the next Challenge.

   Len
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WKWillys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2019 at 2:02am
HHi Len. Glad to hear you're rounding up the parts you need. The brake lines I bought from Advanced Auto  worked great as fuel line; copper nickel and bent really easily and nicely. Put some new 5/16 rubber fuel hose over it to protect where it passed through the tub to protect it from chafing, used a 5/8 rubber grommetted clamp to attach to fender, and then a 8" rubber line to fuel pump. Turned out great. My remanufactured F134 and record radiator are in, starts and runs great, and Saturday I'm set for PA inspection. Was a good winter project and I'm driving again after 4 months of turning wrenches, sanding, painting, chasing busted bolts, and all that fun stuff. You know the drill!
Cheers
John

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'50 M38 "Thunder from Heaven"
'52 M38a1 "Patina"
'47 T3c
'48 T3c
'52 M100
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2019 at 3:14pm
John,
   Good to hear you are running !   what a treat.

I have not ordered the strips to lay the fuel tank on in the body, so I have not yet installed anything. And, I think I am missing the tank hold-down bracket that attaches inside the body just ahead of the fuel tank inlet. So it looks like I need to put together a parts list for pieces to order for the install.

   Woodcutting season has begun, and I have found a source for 6-chords of Pine, and it takes about 9-trips with my trailer to drag home that much wood. If I were cutting dead-and-down pine I can haul more if dried, but I am cutting green wet Pine, and try not to overload the tires.

   I have been busy restoring my 1957 Lincoln SA-200 pipeline welder. That has resulted in many hours of scraping decades of crud off from underneath the unit and the trailer. After 28-years of ownership I decided to clean-up the welder and give it a Dupont over-haul. I actually painted it 20-some years ago, but never scraped clean the underside.

So, for this update, May 5, 2019, other than the fuel tank repair, I have not worked on my '46 Willys. My next step is to order the parts I need to mount the new (used) fuel tank and attach fuel lines.
   After that I have 2-options:    1) refurb brakes, or 2) refurb steering box.

   Len

   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WKWillys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2019 at 10:59pm
Len, Great to hear from you. 48 willys runs, needs some attention to timing and carb adjustments, change tranny diff and t-case fluids, wire harness, and then drive my a$$ off! Runs pretty good though, and I'm bringing it home from camp for summer commutes and fun runs. Cool project, but as you know, never finished!
Bought an M38 and Bantam yesterday, frame up restores in the plans. This is a DISEASE!
John
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'50 M38 "Thunder from Heaven"
'52 M38a1 "Patina"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 July 2019 at 8:04pm
Project Update !

   Here is a link to my latest Endeavor: The T-18 trans conversion.

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/t98-t18-trans-to-l134-bellhousing_topic44407.html

   What I have been doing lately is I finally ordered a new sealed bearing for my T-90 input shaft (driven-gear in techie-talk) from Novak. I will never wear out this bearing in my lifetime. And maybe never use it either, but it will get sent in to Moser Engineering with the T-90 input shaft and the pre-79 T-18 input shaft to get turned down and re-splined to the T-90 Spec.   yep.

   What I have been doing in the meantime is practicing up on welding Cast-Iron. Truthfully speaking - this is a First-Time for this young chap to attempt to weld cast iron. Also, too, I did make another First-Attempt at Brazing too.
   Both techniques have produced amazingly good results. I had a guy grind open and weld a cracked aluminum wheel one time 30-years ago and he said "there really is no Rocket-Science" to this stuff, just common Sense.
   I was born Cents-less, and still don't have much Cents or Sense. hahaha

   So, moving forward with this month's dissertation, I decided to make an actual Cast Iron REpair.   Yep.
   I have a F-head exhaust manifold with a missing "ear" and thought I may be able to just Stack-up-Weld-bead to make the "ear."   It didn't work to my liking, so I decided to take that trusty new Diamond Wheel I bought for my 4-1/2=inch angle griner, and cut an existing "ear" off of the Ford Truck bell housing that was the donor for my T-18 conversion project, linked above.


   this photo shows the F-head exh manifold with missing ear, and my cardboard template for making a new ear.    


   this photo shows possible piece of bell housing to make an ear.
But, the material was too thin. I decided to consider cutting an ear off of the Ford truck donor bell housing for the exhaust manifold repair.


    my cardboard template layed onto the Ford donor bell housing.


     presto !   _ _ _ I have a donor-ear to weld to the exh manifold.


    I think this 'donor' ear will work just fine.


    Done Deal !!

    Ok, I was afraid to try to "finish-weld" the slight imperfections in my welding the 'donor' ear to the exhaust manifold using 309L electrode, so I fired-up my Oxy-Acet torch and grabbed some brazing rod.   I did this because the welding rod that I used to join the two pieces was too hard to file.
   Believe me, at age 67, this was a First-Time to attempt Brazing. Wow, I kind of like the brazing, and very similar to torch welding. Yep, and the brazing filed very easily.   
    An interesting thought here:   it took a hammer and punch to knock the little slag balls off of the cast iron. It was then that I determined it would take more than a good-blow with big-hammer to knock the new 'ear' off.

    That is it for now on my Willy's Gemma-project.   :)

     Len

Edited by Greaser007 - 03 July 2019 at 8:29pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 July 2019 at 8:22pm




   Some of the assortment of electrodes to use for welding the Cast Iron transmission ears on my T-18 conversion.


   my first piece to make a repair: in this photo I have taken a broken cast iron nut with handle missing and welded a section of high strength steel chain link to the cast piece.   70 volts on this repair using the Lincoln SA-200 DC welder. This was using the Harris Ni-99 rod.
Truthfully, for never having joined two dissimilar metals before, I impressed.


    this shows the cleaned T-98 Ford transmission case with the donor Ford bell housing ears bolted to the trans-case.


    this shot shows my L134 bell housing set down over the front bearing "coffee-cup-adapter" that bolts to the front of the T-98 ford trans case.

   Ulitmately, when I get practiced-up on my Cast Iron welding skills, I will weld the Ford 'ears' to the Willys L134 bell housing.

    My latest project update.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Aug. 2019 at 8:08am
Greaser007 here:

   Ok, folks, it is already August 9th, what happened to early 2019 ?

   I was just pm'ing Markw and was telling him now that I am retired, my 5-day mid-week shoots by as fast as a working-stiff's 2-day weekend !   right !

   Anyway, good heavens, I have finally, I mean FINALLY sent out my t-18 input shaft to Moser Engineering for my L134 to T-18 transmission conversion, which I have a build-thread on that.   I was telling Mark, I am really very nervous because I am stepping into this not being an Expert, and do still have some blurred thoughts of uncertaintly rattling around in my brain.
   Now, I don't know if I am the only one, but I spend hours working on this stuff in my Brain, and not with my hands, just trying to sort it all out.

   Ok, aside from all seriousness here, my wife Terri and I just spent 7-days at Lake Almanor in northern-most California in the Sierra-Nevada mnt range.
We have enjoyed the same motorhome now for 26-years. It is a 1971 Winnebago Chiefton in the 24-foot length. It is powered by a Hobart welder engine. Just teasing.   hahahha   No, it is powered by a Chrysler 413 Industrial engine.
This year, it came due for a (forced-brake-job).   The reason for the "force" is because I could hardly back it out of the Carport. Something was binding and releasing with a big BANG !   Geesh, very disturbing in the least. So I tied into the brakes to have a looksie.   I hate disassembling 1-ton brakes, and these are so old they are drums front and rear. I started with the front brakes and serviced them. Get this, after 26-years, I've never worn out those front shoes.   But I have the rears. yep, many years of descending the mountain summits with 22-foot boat with no trailer brakes.   no problems.
I went through the rear brakes, wheel cylinders yes, but shoes were like new.
I had replaced them back in 2002 prior to making a visit to Yosemite and Mammoth Mountain and Bishop. I removed the cover off of the Dana 70 diff and the fluid looked normal and everything was clean.
    Out of curiosity, I took a pry bar to check for side play in the Carrier.
OMG, _ _ _ I have about .005" side play !   for real !   Yep, and is it running ok ?   Yep.   Now this makes me think of "TOLERANCES".
     in all my years of changing gear sets in differentials, I have never ever used a dial indicator. Why bother ?   Just because you have .004 backlash, is your pinion depth set spot-on ?   huh ?   are you sure ? It is all your best-guess. ( I am speaking of the home-mech here, and not a pro who does this every day for a living with the proper tooling ).   So, there fore, you can realistically guess the backlash once you are happy with your mesh pattern.
    I'm getting away from my "build-thread" but I am passing along information here that has worked for me for a lifetime, and have not had any differential failures even towing up the I-80 hill east of Salt Lake City.   hahaha
    Where was I, oh yeah, back to the pitch.
   Again, I had an old mechanic ( I respected them ) tell me one time that you can "feel" .004 clearance when you do it everyday for a living. So, there are just some things that I set by "feel." Simple-simon.
Think about this: would you rather have a good mesh pattern on your ring and pinion set-up and let the backlash yield a bit.
   Or
Would you rather be tickled with a perfect backlash setting with a dial indicator, but have a poor gear-tooth mesh-pattern ?   think about it.
   OR
You can take your diff assembly out of the vehicle and haul it to a shop and pay them BIG $$$$ and if the truth were to be known, they may set them up like I do, _ _ by Feel.    
    I get this same rosy feeling about Cam-break-in hype.

    Back to my Rv Binding:   This rv has an emergency brake like our Willys which is a brake drum mounted on the tailshaft of the 727 automatic transmission. That right there was the next item to be suspected ! So, I tear remove the driveline and am happy that all the u-joints were moving freely.
Next I remove the (Park Brake) drum and the inside was a mess and the linings of the shoes was worn all off-cady-wampuss, as if the backing plate had gottem bent from someone who may have dropped it onto the ground first in a previous repair. The previous owner had driven this motorhome 20-times from Los Angeles, California to Cabo San Luca in the 20-years he owned it.

    I have about 2-weeks to wait for my package to return from Moser Engineering with my T-90 input shaft (template) and the turned down T-18 input shaft. There may be a day when I can re-assemble my T-18 innards into the Ford T-98 case and have me a L134 compatible Granny-Tranny.
   I keep forgetting to order some of those fuel tank welting strips for the tank to rest on, and then I will remount my new-refurbished fuel tank and get the fuel line in operation again. That will be in October or later i'm sure.

    Ok, ugh, it got late, so I will end this but thought I would pop a photo of my wife Terri and I up at the lake during our stay.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2020 at 5:59am
Greetings Willy's Addicts !
Not much new going on with my '46 2A "yard-art" project.
I fell a big black walnut tree next to my willys, and missed the Willys by a calculated 4-feet. Red-neck-math = 4-beers. _ _ just kidding. hahaha
The wife has been cleaning up under that Messy Black Walnut for 8-years, so I fired up the chainsaw and got out my carpenter's square to dial-in the drop zone and put both forks of the tree on the Ground, and missed the Willys. Ha.
The question is: was the carpenter's square spot-on or just red-neck luck.
We do have to take a hard-swallow and Man-up on occasion. :)





I kind of spent 2019 delving into my T-18 / T-98 to L134 transmission conversion project until I got to the point of removing cluster gears from the T-98 transmission housing to then take the housing to my machinist to have him drill and tap five holes in the rear face of the case to accept the Scout T-case adapter plate.
    Next after that, I hope to install the T-18 gear-sets into the T-98 case including the Scout input shaft (driven-gear) that I had modified by Moser Engineering.   Moser sure does nice work. The shipping both ways totaled about $85.00 which was about the same cost of spline cutting. Moser charged me $100.00 to turn down the Scout shaft to the L134 spec.   Reasonable I thought.

    I currently have bunches of things going on and have spent No-Time working on the Willys until today. Below is a quick summery of the WARN 8724 Winch that I drug home for "Gemma" yesterday.
    In 1984 I purchased a fairly solid '46 Willys to refurb for running the Rubicon Trail at Lake Tahoe, California. My wife was pregnant and I basically did a frame-on rebuild of the entire jeep.   I rebuilt the engine including new valve guides. The cylinders were all good shape so I basically did a De-Glazing of the cylinder walls and plasti-gauged all mains and rod bearings and found them to be within spec's and re-assembled the rotating assembly.
I installed new valve guides and re-faced the valves.
Note: I had to lap the valve stem to guides for a nice tight fit using valve lapping compound.   Boy did that little engine run nice after the refurb.

    My wife and I ran the Rubicon into the Rubicon Springs from Wentworth springs and back out through the basin back to Loon Lake spillway two summers 1984 and 1985, and got married in South Shore Lake Tahoe on the way home summer '85. The '46 got sold to pay for my son's birthing expense, child no. 3 and final.

   The Warn 8724 electric winch, I kept when I sold the Willys, and gave it to my father to use on his IH 4x pickup around 1987.   Yes, I mounted the winch and a Warn winch bumper to the IH pickup for him. My dad drove that pickup for about 12-years and removed the winch and sold the pickup, and gave me the winch back around 2015. About mid-2016 he asked to 'borrow' it to pull some Oleander bushes, and it has been sitting out on the ground in his backyard since.
    Long story short - I drug the winch home yesterday, April 25,2020.
Today, I removed the winch from the Warn bumper, and bolted it to the Warn winch plate that was on the '46 that I had refurbed back in 1985.
    Maybe it does pay to keep stuff !!   Funny, I've used that winch more times helping other jeepers than I have using for my own "stucks."   hahahaha





    This Warn winch is the older style with the exterior braking band. To be truthful, I never used that breaking band and kept it open with a piece of wire to immobilize it. My father is currently 92 years old and cannot remember what he did with the solenoid setup or the remote control. Oh well.

    Amazing how equipment can last a lifetime if kept properly serviced.
Note: my Dad doesn't service anything unless it is Broke. Ugh.

    I am getting really itchy feet suffering through this 2020 Covid-19 shut-down of the nation.   I have been frantically working on re-building a 2007 Mega-Lite Toy Box trailer that came up for sale at an affordable price, $4k.
Yes, the trailer had 13-years of deferred maintenance. I'm not done yet, and may not even get to use it this summer if the Campgrounds are Closed by Covid.

    Len

Edited by Greaser007 - 27 Apr. 2020 at 6:48am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2020 at 5:27pm
Len,
Herm should have what you need for that old winch.
 
I'm still debating if I'm going to mount mine back on the Jeep. They are a beast.
 
Micah
 
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2021 at 7:03pm

I have resumed work on my '46 Willys project after taking a 14-month haitus:
Below is the link to my T-18 to L-134 transmission conversion puzzle.


Note:   below is a link to repurposed IH Scout T-18 transmissions and stuff:


     enjoy !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2021 at 5:36pm
   Hi ya all once again !!
     Yep, just making the "attempt" to light a fire under my Gemma project to get her moving along.

     Hahahaha,  _ _ _ i get distracted easy when i have to knuckle down on something, unless it is a party.  Yeah, well, once upon a time we could have parties and gathering for good times.  Not Now, because Covid rules our lives kinda sorta.   I hope the vaccines make everyone feel secure and safe.

     I've been tearing down a Muncie SM 465 4-speed manual light-truck transmission because i have it.

     My T-18 Borg Warner transmission project is nearing being ready for Assembly !!    Hoorayyy !!
Yes, again, i am waiting for my machinist.   He is a Jypo single proprietor business man, and therefore, when i drop something off for attention,  I take the tail end of the line-up, behind larger equipment repairs.

     Now, for Assembly of my T-18, i am rebuilding an old modified pallet rack, turned 9-foot workbench.


      My current transmission project compilation:
       In the distance is the light colored IH Scout T-18 trans case.
       In the foreground is a Muncie-GM SM 465 case & cluster on Left, and on right is Ford T-98 case (gray) and Scout T-18 cluster gear.    Is my mind on-track ?   only Every-which-way-but-Loose !!  haha

      My buddy Morris, gave me the modified pallet rack workbench which i am going to refurb and repaint and assemble for the Assembly of my T-18 transmission for a 9-foot long surface.
Below is one of the end assemblies which i did some welding on, and sanded and painted with Krylon.


     narrowed pallet rack end-frame for workbench depth of 23-inches


     painted end frame for the 9-foot long workbench to be used for transmission assembly.  yep
One more to do some clean-up welding and the 2-hours of sanding to prep for paint.   
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