Hammer forms

1. I don't want the dies to last for "several" panels.  I want them to last forever.  One could argue that "if you are going to go through so much trouble", you might as well make something that lasts "forever"  Not just a long time .... which wood forms lasting a long time is debatable.  Ask Phil.

2. Cost is not an option because the money will be recouped.

3. These forms will be cut out on a CNC mill.  The program for the mill will be done using CAD/CAM i.e. programming is relatively easy, and while the mill cuts the forms, to "perfect finish", I will probably be kicking back and chatting with youns' on the forum so in actuality it would probably be less work but certainly not a lot of trouble.  It will be fun and I'm sure that the forum members would agree.

FWIW, I have been advised by Brain Hainer among others, not to use wood.  It was Brian's suggestion to add the tub radius forms to the end of the fixture.  I trust him.

...... so 

1. If any of youns' don't like tool making and find it to be too much trouble, I would advise against this.

2. If economics is an issue for you and you don't plan to make enough panels to recoup the cost, I would not do this.

Lucky for everyone that someone (not me) will be making panels with these fixtures so you won't have to worry about it.  Not sure when I will get to this though. 

 

From my measurements the only form that would be different enough that Jeff's design couldn't do it would be the M 38 right side tool indents. That would require a second operation to a preformed panel with a smaller set of hammerforms made with the correct profile for the M 38, which I would think is a mirror image to the 2a/MB indent. Also, with the form built as Jeff proposes, you can make a partial panel, like the rear coner piece almost every old jeep needs.

 

Carl, those bodies built by coachbuilders to fit a buck, or built over a wooden framework were usually made from softer aluminum. The process of building to fit a buck involves shaping the panel with varied tools and then fitting it to the buck. Very little hammering over the wood is actually done.The buck is simply a pattern the metal is checked with.   Lots of beating on the sheet metal does occur, sometimes with power hammers, pullmaxes, or just a blocking hammer over a simple hollowed out stump or sandbag. Modern bodybuilders today are still learning how the old masters did it, as a lot of that knowledge was not passed on over the years except to a priveleged few. Today, sites like Metalmeet and All Metalshaping have folks who are carrying on the traditional craft in an amazing renaisannce (sp) of the craft. Check them out, there are some incredible projects out there going on. Us jeepers are mere beginners when it comes to true metalshaping.....The aircraft guys and the hot rod crowd have been turning out some incredible stuff and now with the net we get to see these projects while they are being built...Nothing like an all steel 32 Ford bult from scratch.

 

I believe when Willys made these panels, they originally were stamped out with large presses. I would guess they were done in multiple strikes, with different dies each time.  A steel hammerform is the closest one can get to that process without investing in a huge press and $$ tooling. Compromises have to be made but as Brian has proved, a panel much closer to the original than the MD Juan ones can be made from simple flat sheet steel. The jeep tub is almost all simple curves and bends except for the cowl panel, and as I mentioned somewhere before, the floor around the transmission. Luckily for us the complex grille usually doesn't rust, and the cowls are saveable too on most tubs. That leaves 80 percent of the bodywork that can be remade with simple techiniques.  (Can't make those ribs in the rear floor very easily either, but Monte at Classic has taken care of that for us. )

 

The suggestion to make a wooden form with steel edges is a good one for the home builder. Eventually the steel will loosen from the wood form but they should hold up better than a straight MDF or Oak form would. If your own jeep has a good upper channel, making the panel without it simplifies things incredibly, then it can be spliced into the tub. A wooden form and apice of pipe for the rear radius should suffice in that case.  What nobody has mentioned yet is the internal doubler piece that is spot welded inside the upper channel to strengthen it. That will require a similar, but thinner form.

 

I am a bodyman but this hammerform technique is new ground for me as well.  I am in the process of making a hammerform from scrap steel to make the rear panel for the DJ jeeps, and hopefully I will be able to produce duplicable  and accurate results and learn some things along the way. The same basic panel should fit the MB/GPW too.   Then it will be off to the drawing board to make the rear valance panel for the 2A, 3A , and 3B. I realize they both could almost all be made with my shear and brake but that curved notch for the pintle hitch makes it a little more complex.

 

Dang, I need to write a book. Sorry about the length , guys!

Just browsing tonight, and saw that one.. I love that post..Well Said

This is the best line ever. I am thinking about using it on my better half when she gets upset with me for spending so much money.. I will (with luck) report back as to how that conversation goes..