Harvard Red '46 CJ2A #59359 all in the family |
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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Started on the body this week and got the body pieces all cut up. I will be working at H. W. Welch in Mountville, PA. Henry is an expert on everything old jeeps. He will be teaching me and telling me what to do, Talk about learning on the job! I have limited fabrication experience to say the least.
This was just about the only thing that wasn't in really bad shape. Oddly enough, the Jeep has never sat outside a night in its life!
Cut out all of the spot welds and got the firewall separated, saved the bracing for the new floor panels. I could only save part of the hump in the center, it was in pretty bad shape as well. That is going to be tough to make! Edited by McG - 02 Apr. 2017 at 12:56pm |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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When we got to the point where you are, with Tiny's jeep, we decided to go with a complete one-piece replacement floor. A pretty substantial investment and a project to install, but well worth it. It saved us a lot of fabricating and patching. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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Where did you get the complete floor? Just curious. I already had the MD Juan floor here but am doing a couple of things to make it a little more correct.
I removed the channels and am going to replace with correct size, remove the rear in order to lengthen the bed about 1/4 inch, going to take some 1/2"square stock and square the ribbing (these are rounded), and drill the drain holes in the rear seat indent and center of the front 3, then put a correct back and front end on. Also the 2 outside rear seat indents are a little shallow on the floor, so we are going to try and make them a little deeper and remove the 3 welded on nuts for the rear indents and put the right ones on. Other than that, these panels are perfect. :) Edited by McG - 03 Dec. 2016 at 12:02pm |
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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The depth of the floor seat indents are too shallow. Going to end up making something to press them a little deeper and flatten the ribs next to it. Frustrating to have to do all of this work to a new panel just to make it right. This was used for the ribbing around the floor indents for the footman loops, on the other side it should be flat.
Edited by McG - 16 Feb. 2018 at 10:53am |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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We replaced both the front floor and the rear floor. I think they both came from Walck's. I don't remember finding so many things incorrect, but then, Tiny is not as "anal" (his word) as I am about those things. I think his came out really nice. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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here we are squaring the ribs on the rear fenders and extending them to match the originals. The outside rib should go all of the way to the bend and the inside one goes to 3 inches from the bend. One of the strange things that is so screwy about the MD JUAN replacement panels. On the left the length of the ribbing is different than on the right. How does that happen?
And here straightening out the panels to get the bends in the right place, nice to have an original to take measurements off of. (one thing I noticed after going back over this post the lower outside tab should be bent toward the ground instead of up) Edited by McG - 16 Feb. 2018 at 10:54am |
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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I'll tell you what. The more stuff I see that is wrong with the MD Juan stuff, the madder I get. Frustrating that there isn't anyone that makes correct replacement panels. Maybe something needs to be done about that! 2 shipments ago were complete junk the last ones were a little better, but it seems they didn't drive the punches into the panels hard enough because the rear seat indents are definitely not as deep as previous floor panels. I mean really, how hard is it? I pay $400 for a panel I have to put days of work in to to make anywhere near correct. Add it all up, and what am I paying for? What a rip off! Sorry, Rant over.
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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In my limited experience Classic Enterprises does quite a bit better with their replacement panels. They don't have everything, but what they do have is usually pretty good, and USA made.
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Qcanuck
Member Joined: 04 Sep. 2013 Location: Ottawa, ON Status: Offline Points: 421 |
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Sorry to come across as snoopy, but I'd like to know more about that buzz saw that can be seen in the back ground of some of the photos. Does that connect to a three point hitch set up? if so, I'll trade you for mine, which is a stand alone and in great shape!
Q |
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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If you are talking about the one that is in the background of one of the first few pictures. That saw is mounted on the front of the tractor and is lowered to the ground when in use. I guess it could be converted to use on a 3 pt. It was run off of the side pulley on our farmall H or M. Both tractors have pulleys similar to what was available on the cj2a. My grandfather used it to saw many a log, now it sits in the back of the shop till my father figures what he wants to do with it. You're not being snoopy. If its in the picture its fair game as far as I'm concerned! :)
Edited by McG - 04 Dec. 2016 at 9:44am |
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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In reply to the classic enterprises panels. They are better than the Phillipine parts but still not completely correct, so I figure, if I gonna do it, I am gonna try to do it right. It is nice because there is an all original mid '46 that Henry is putting together in another part of the shop which we can pull measurements off of.
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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a picture of the tools We made to make the seat indents a little deeper. A close look at the difference between the support channel I took off and the one I am putting back on. Wrong is 1.5 ". and correct is 1" Here spot welding the floor supports on, starting in the middle, because the floor bowed a little bit from flattening out the top of the ribs. first was 14" second was 27 1/4".
Edited by McG - 06 Dec. 2016 at 11:07am |
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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Next is putting the front panel from Walcks.
Then a new correct rear panel. Both not MD Juan, Walck's correct panels.
Edited by McG - 06 Dec. 2016 at 11:08am |
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birddog7
Member Joined: 04 July 2011 Location: Lynn Center, IL Status: Offline Points: 533 |
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Thanks for sharing your build. Nice job. How did you put the stripe on your wheels?
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Birddog
1945 CJ2A 1956 CJ3B 1946 CJ2A 1948 CJ2A 1948 CJ3A 1946 Bantam Trailer |
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4145 |
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Because you've already modified them, this is probably not helpful.
Your wheel well tops... 2A tops and 3A tops are different. The front bends are different, and the rib lengths are different. MD Juan finally put forth a decent effort to make the different versions. You might have received a mixture of new and old...or packaging that was miss-marked. This happened to a friend at the 3A Page. Nice work on the adjustments! Hawk |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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Kinda hard to explain, Henry has an axle end you just put in a vice and set the rim on it. Then there is a piece he made that mounts in the center of the axle and will roll pinstriping tape as it goes around. I then took 1/8 inch tape and put it down around the outside and inside of the 1/4 inch tape ( I have seen original wheels with 3/16" stripe as well). Then pull up the 1/4 inch tape and use a pinstriping brush to paint the lines on and finally pull up the outside tapes. I'll try and get a picture of the contraption.
Here is an easier way to do it. Also depends on color of stripe of course because not all colors are available in that type of pen although they do sell very nice refillable paint pens that are over $100. Edit: Here is a picture of the contraption Edited by McG - 06 Dec. 2016 at 10:58am |
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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The bends were close, maybe 1/16 -1/8" off. They seem to fit the other Juan stuff, which is also off. As far as the ribs, you are right they are closer, but they still don't go far enough to match originals. ughhh, so easy for them to do it right in the first place! Thanks for the suggestions. This is a real learning experience!
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McG
Member Joined: 07 Jan. 2013 Location: White Hall, MD Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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finisher R and L fenders today. Had to trim the Juan tops to fit the sides on the "triangle" part of the fender. The unpainted pieces are exact replicas of original panels, so we used that first and "fixed" the primered pieces to fit starting at the triangle and moving outward. Wish I would have noticed the tab on the juan fenders fold up , but originals fold down on the outside of the lower angled bend.
Edited by McG - 04 June 2017 at 11:22am |
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