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Head gasket replacement
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Evansjl View Drop Down
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Joined: 18 Aug. 2020
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Points: 31 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Evansjl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2023 at 11:03am
Ok let me try to answer as much as I can remember. 

I put a new temperature gauge on and it never moved.  I had taken the thermostat out of the circuit to test in the house bud hadn’t put back in yet.   So I wonder how hot the fluid got.  I would guess 120 or less.  I was shooting ir temp on the block and it was 140-190 if I remember right.  

I did use the correct pattern for putting in the nuts. I put them on hand tight first and then torqued it to 65ftlbs.  I didn’t step the torque though like you asked.  

I flushed the just radiator with a garden hose for about an hour before initial start up.  I did flush radiator thru engine for 15-20 minutes with it draining out the port and temperature sensor hole. I had flushed the engine and radiator several times as I was troubleshooting before tearing into the engine.  It is a possibility there is still oil in different channels.  I cleaned the head in a parts washer and also rinsed it with water and let it dry several days before putting on.   

The victor gasket is fiber only and has a little metal around cylinder bore edges.  It looked like there might have been a crease in it but I thought it would seal up when torqued.  See photo.  

Studs were installed with sealant but I did use a wrench to tighten them up. Probably a mistake.  I did clean up and excess sealant after installation. 

I didn’t have the head or block magnafluxed but I did inspect head really well and actually swapped out with another one that I had because the one I had on it originally looked like it had been dropped and a crack was forming.  I didn’t pull the oil pan or pistons to check for cracks but I did check from top side of block and top side of cylinders and didn’t see anything to concern me.  This is an engine I bought used because the original engine had a spot I didn’t like (crack potentially) so I found this one before I dealt with that one.  

I have a Cooper gasket I got from rfjp but didn’t use it as I was told by coworkers that copper gaskets are hard to get to seal up. I haven’t done a compression test since repair.   

Please forgive my ignorance but what site does Dan Sharon operate? 
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Jeff J View Drop Down
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Points: 355 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2023 at 11:22am
I don’t think torquing the studs is a bad thing as long as the proper torque was used (assuming there is a called out torque for them). It would not be 65 ft pounds. Driving torque on studs is much less than the torque for the nuts put on them. 

Edited by Jeff J - 08 Feb. 2023 at 11:23am
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cpt logger View Drop Down
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One question, you do have a service manual don't you?
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Evansjl View Drop Down
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Points: 31 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Evansjl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2023 at 11:56am
Yes I have a service manual 
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Oldpappy View Drop Down
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Points: 3735 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2023 at 12:09pm
Jeff is incorrect with his assumption about the torque value being less than 65 lbs. They should be torqued to between 65 and 70 lbs, as "called" for in the FSM. 

Edited by Oldpappy - 08 Feb. 2023 at 12:13pm
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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  I dont think it will hurt to snug the studs in the block, but there’s certainly no need or even a reason to put any real torque on them. I find that the studs may “tip” a tiny bit when the end of the threads contact the block, making it difficult to slide the head down over them. I finger-tighten them and then back them out just a tiny bit, 1/8 of a turn or less so they can wiggle in the threads a bit. The head slides on easier. Then I snug them up again with pliers. 
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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Points: 931 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2023 at 12:12pm
Jeff was talking about stud torque into the block.   
Alan Johnson
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Points: 3735 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2023 at 12:15pm
Head studs don't get "torqued". 
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there
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tamnalan View Drop Down
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Points: 931 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2023 at 12:17pm
I agree
Alan Johnson
1943 MB - "Lt Bob"
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teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740
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Jeff J View Drop Down
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Points: 355 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2023 at 12:55pm
I work on a lot of things that call for torquing the studs. One example in particular would be installing the studs into a block at 25 foot pounds and while the nuts threaded on to them get 40.8 foot pounds. I did include a disclaimer of sorts about using the specified torque. 

Edited by Jeff J - 08 Feb. 2023 at 12:56pm
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Lee MN View Drop Down
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Points: 4527 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2023 at 1:32pm
Originally posted by Jeff J Jeff J wrote:

I work on a lot of things that call for torquing the studs. One example in particular would be installing the studs into a block at 25 foot pounds and while the nuts threaded on to them get 40.8 foot pounds. I did include a disclaimer of sorts about using the specified torque. 


There are two types of studs, typically a torqued stud has a slight taper at the ends of the threads, this prevents the stud from tipping as it reaches the end of the leading thread (Bruce mentioned this in the above post, I believe they are called a “Taper Lock”, common on older caterpillar equipment. Go Devil studs are not this type, and there is no need to torque them as Bruce mentioned. If you torque all the studs they tend to tip off in different directions and make gasket and head installation a big issue, that’s why the manual calls for Non-Hardening permeated, this allows the stud to turn upon torquing the nuts and still keep a seal on the threads.

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Ron D View Drop Down
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I'm wondering if he's using the correct head gasket.
Willys issued Service Bulletin #784 on August 13, 1946 about it.
FelPro has 2 different head gaskets for the L134 --- 7267B and 7285B.
I believe the copper Best Gasket 555C is the same as the FelPro 7285B.

I agree that head studs should be installed with sealant into the block and only finger tight.
No sealant on the nuts (no washers either).
Studs should be long enough where 2-3 threads show after the nut is installed.

Torque them in the proper sequence to about 35 ft-lbs and go around again to 70 ft-lbs.
Then after the first start and warm-up torque them again (one at a time) in the proper sequence.

Good luck!


Edited by Ron D - 08 Feb. 2023 at 1:54pm
1951 M38
1951 M100
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Evansjl View Drop Down
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Points: 31 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Evansjl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar. 2023 at 8:12pm
I finally got around to pulling the head today.  I had oil on top of all pistons.  All of my pistons have an “h” stamped in them.  It look like I had oil getting past the gasket between 2 and 1. If I have oil on the pistons does this mean it is time for new pistons/rings? 

On the Best copper gasket do the letters go up it down I.e. in contact with the head or the block.  
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