Head gasket replacement

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   I replaced my head gasket today and it is still smoking. It has been about 2 months since I took the cylinder head off before I put it all back together.  Would water sit in the system that long to cause it to smoke on firing it up today?  I drained the cooling system before taking the head off.  I wanted to ask the question before I tore into the engine again.  Thank you in advance.  

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
Evansjl Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 18 Aug. 2020 Location: Columbia, SC Status: Offline Points: 31	Post Options Post Reply Quote Evansjl Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Head gasket replacement Posted: 28 Jan. 2023 at 7:41pm
	I replaced my head gasket today and it is still smoking. It has been about 2 months since I took the cylinder head off before I put it all back together. Would water sit in the system that long to cause it to smoke on firing it up today? I drained the cooling system before taking the head off. I wanted to ask the question before I tore into the engine again. Thank you in advance.

Oldpappy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 3713	Post Options Post Reply Quote Oldpappy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan. 2023 at 7:48pm
	What color is the "smoke" ? Water makes steam which may look like white smoke, black smoke usually indicates too rich fuel mixture, while oil makes grey smoke. Did you replace the head gasket because it was blown, or did you have a reason to think that would correct smoking?
	If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there

Evansjl Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 18 Aug. 2020 Location: Columbia, SC Status: Offline Points: 31	Post Options Post Reply Quote Evansjl Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan. 2023 at 7:52pm
	It looked like it was white smoke for the most part today and I actually had water hitting my hand. I replaced the head gasket because it was blowing white smoke and I had oil in the coolant.

Mark W. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7532	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mark W. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan. 2023 at 8:40pm
	How long did you run the engine? Did it clear up? It very possible to have water sit in the muffler and exhaust for a couple months. It should clear up after say 15min.
	Chug A Lug 1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962

Evansjl Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 18 Aug. 2020 Location: Columbia, SC Status: Offline Points: 31	Post Options Post Reply Quote Evansjl Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan. 2023 at 8:54pm
	I maybe ran it for 5-10 min total. I would run it a minute or two and then turn it off. It didn’t seem to get better. But I could run it for longer and see what it does.

Ron D Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 957	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ron D Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan. 2023 at 9:06pm
	When you had the head off, did you check it and the block for flatness within tolerance? Sealed all the studs or bolts from the water jacket?
	1951 M38 1951 M100

Evansjl Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 18 Aug. 2020 Location: Columbia, SC Status: Offline Points: 31	Post Options Post Reply Quote Evansjl Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jan. 2023 at 9:09pm
	I had the head resurfaced and it was dead flat. I put all new studs in and used ptfe sealant on them before putting them in. I used aircraft sealant in the nuts.

cpt logger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 2830	Post Options Post Reply Quote cpt logger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan. 2023 at 11:38am
	First, run the engine up to operating temperature & run it continuously for at least 30 minutes after that, 45 to 60 minutes would be better. You are trying to get the exhaust hot enough to evaperate out all of the water that is in the muffler & tail pipe. The white "smoke" is actually steam. It should clear up fairly soon, 20-30 minutes or so depending on how much water is in there. Be sure to run the engine for at least 15 minutes after that happens to be sure that all of the water is gone from the exhaust system. Of course you will want to keep an eye on the temperature gauge to be sure that the engine does not overheat in case there are other issues. I personally like to drive the rig around the neighborhood while I do this. Driving it is much more fun than just watching it run. I just gotta ask, Why did you use sealant on the nuts? If the studs are sealed the nuts will not have any water near them. I am concerned that using sealant on the nuts may have affected the torque values. I hope not.

Oldpappy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 3713	Post Options Post Reply Quote Oldpappy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan. 2023 at 12:21pm
	I don't know whether sealant affected the torque values on initial tightening, but if they are re-torqued as they should be, that process will eliminate any "seal" the sealant might have provided. Another reason to question putting sealant on the nuts.
	If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there

Jeff J Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 12 Mar. 2018 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 354	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jeff J Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan. 2023 at 5:18pm
	Unless specifically called for by the manual, I would have to believe sealant or any other foreign material on any threaded fastener would be a bad thing. Especially on anything a person wants an accurate torque.

Evansjl Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 18 Aug. 2020 Location: Columbia, SC Status: Offline Points: 31	Post Options Post Reply Quote Evansjl Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Feb. 2023 at 7:20pm
	So I ran it for about 45 minutes today finally. In the end At idle it was not smoking but if I gave it any gas it blew smoke out. It definitely had oils in the radiator fluid but not as bad as before. I currently don’t have a thermostat in and the Jeep is on jack stands. Picture is showing the smoke. The oil level seemed steady but water level did drop after running for 45 minutes. So I used a victor gasket that came with the engine but maybe it was compromised? I sprayed the copper sealer on both sides. I guess the question would be if I should get a felpro gasket and try the repair again or look for a crack somewhere else. I didn’t see one on the surface of the block when I replaced the gasket. The guide I was using said to put sealant on the nuts. See step 43/44. I’m guessing it is to keep water from coming in from the outside. I torqued to about 65ft/lbs. This is my first head gasket replacement so I am learning as I go. https://www.1944mb.com/article/121/MB%20GPW%20How%20to%20Replace%20your%20Jeep%20L134%20Engine%20Cylinder%20Head%20Gasket Any advice is appreciated. Thank you for all the replies to this point.

cpt logger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 2830	Post Options Post Reply Quote cpt logger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Feb. 2023 at 3:12am
	Was the engine at operating temperature for at least 30 minutes? Did you run it at idle for most of this run? Since it was still "smoking" you did not get all of the water out. Either that, or there is still an issue with the cooling system. I suspect the first. Did you use the correct pattern to torque the nuts up or did you start at one end & work your way to the other end? Going from one end to the other can warp the head & wrinkle the gasket. . Also did you start at 65t/lbs or did you start at 20ft/lbs, then 40ft/lbs & lastly 65ft/lbs? Going straight to full torque with no step up can also warp the head. It usually warps the gasket enough that it will not seal. How well did you flush the cooling system? Is it possible that the oil in the radiator is just residual from before this repair? I hope this is the reason for the oil in the radiator. All of these questions are so we can figure out the issue(s) with this engine. They are not meant to harass you.

Oilleaker1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4348	Post Options Post Reply Quote Oilleaker1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Feb. 2023 at 7:39am
	Victor gasket all fiber or have a steel side like the felpro?. I now use the copper plied gasket made by Best Gaskets. I love them. You can feel the torque tighten down much better. I bring the engine up to operating temperature and re-torque while still there. Drive it for a day or so and go back and check a 3rd time on torques. When you pull the head again, look real close for cracks. A cylinder that is cleaner than the rest indicates water steam cleaning the carbon off. It will have a different color in the chamber. Was your head and block magnafluxed? The studs should have a sealant to the block threads with none squishing out into the gasket surface. They should be hand installed and not torqued into the block. This allows a bit of installation ease or removal ease. Dry clean threads on the nuts. Oil messes with the torque readings. When all dry and clean, spray some solvent on the surface and as it dries, look for wet lines indicating a crack. Head and block surfaces. The old gasket can also show a leak , but the fiber ones are usually too destroyed upon removal. Edited by Oilleaker1 - 06 Feb. 2023 at 7:41am
	Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!

tamnalan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 08 Oct. 2013 Location: Port Orford, OR Status: Offline Points: 930	Post Options Post Reply Quote tamnalan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Feb. 2023 at 10:46pm
	I'm with oilleaker.... the copper head gaskets are really nice. A sealer (I use permatex #2) on the stud threads into the block, finger tight. No goop on the nut threads. Compression check? Edited by tamnalan - 06 Feb. 2023 at 10:47pm
	Alan Johnson 1943 MB - "Lt Bob" 1950 cj3a M-100 x2 teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740

Oldpappy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 3713	Post Options Post Reply Quote Oldpappy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Feb. 2023 at 8:27am
	I used one of the copper Best Gaskets when I replaced a blown head gasket on a L134 last month. I think they are the best available nowadays and won't bother with the others going forward. Worth the price.
	If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there

oldtime Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 3745	Post Options Post Reply Quote oldtime Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Feb. 2023 at 10:10am
	Absolutely. I bought my copper F-134 head gasket from Dan Sharon.
	Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts

Oldpappy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 3713	Post Options Post Reply Quote Oldpappy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Feb. 2023 at 10:18am
	That is where I got mine from as well. CMV doesn't have a huge inventory but I have been pleased with the quality of everything I have bought from Dan. I think he does his best to source the best quality parts available.
	If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there

oldtime Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 3745	Post Options Post Reply Quote oldtime Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Feb. 2023 at 10:29am
	Absolutely I have bought other high quality parts from Dan. Like NOS “Seal Tested” steering parts.
	Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B . T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts