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Head Light Switch

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jalbrecht55 View Drop Down

Joined: 29 Apr. 2013
Location: PA
Status: Offline
Points: 114
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jalbrecht55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Head Light Switch
    Posted: 05 June 2013 at 3:09pm
I have had the worst luck with head light switches.  A few years ago I decided to try to fix the problem, so far all has been working well for about 2 years.  Below is something I posted elsewhere on the problem and fix, I thought it might help others.

I have gone through three of the stock replacement style omix-ada switches (and the one that came with the jeep)-- in 4 years and 2500 miles.    The problem I have had with the omix switch is that one day I'll turn on the lights and it will blow the fuse in my fuse panel (30A BTW).  It seems to happen at random, but once it starts happening it will usually happen again a few days later.  And so on.. until I replace the light switch.  

I went to Napa yesterday and dug through the catalog to see if they had anything that might work.  I found this one, Echlin p/n HL6049.  I thought the catalog listed the application as xxx to 1966 ford something.  I did some web searching and all I see it listed as is 'universal'.  At 8-10 bucks it's about half the price of the omix Jeep switch.  Other than the knob hanging out a little bit further on the dash, it pretty much looks the same installed.  I think the threads are a little different for the knobs, but the old knob did fit well enough.

(Left is Omix, right is Napa)

Alternate part numbers are:

Echlin HL6049
BWD S141

After installing the new one, I decided to pull apart the old switch

The problem is that there is a metal tray that slides a lower printed circuit board across an upper printed circuit board (that has the terminals from the battery and to the lights).  This metal tray has only the smallest of clearance between it and the terminals on the upper PCB.  I think what has happened over time is this clearance has changed, allowing the terminal to arc across the edge of the tray.  You can barely see the black arc marks on the tray in this photo (circled in red).  Sorry for the blurry picture...

I decided to grind away those 'close' areas.

I put it back together and it seems to work fine now.  However, I am still running the NAPA switch since it's already installed and works fine.

Also, I measured the current draw from the lights.  The dash lights+marker+tail draw about 3 amps.  Low beams +markers draws about 8 amps, high beams draw 9 amps, .  When you press the high beam switch down all the way both high and low are illuminated.  This maxed out my 10A meter, but it is likely around 17 amps.  (I think I remembered all of that right).  This is on a 12V system running P/N HLA-002395301, 7" Hella Vision Plus Conversion Headlights, H6024 replacement, HB2 bulb.
'47 Willys CJ-2A -- -
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HCAT View Drop Down

Joined: 15 May 2013
Location: Pa
Status: Offline
Points: 386
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HCAT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2013 at 9:59pm
Had same exact problem, breaker would trip and engine would quit. 
-Harvard Red 46' sadly sold
-Bantam T3-C   sold
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JamesJeep View Drop Down

Joined: 18 May 2020
Location: Texas
Status: Offline
Points: 4
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JamesJeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2020 at 10:50pm
What a fantastic solution! My light switch was blowing the fuse every time the lights were turned on, so I pulled it apart as you described above (looks like 7 years ago) and fixed it with a Dremel tool, no problem. Thanks!
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