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Head Stud Removal - Last One

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Alpine View Drop Down
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    Posted: 08 Jan. 2018 at 9:35am
Well I got all but one stud out and was looking for ideas other than heating up the engine block (I am not sure how to do that nor do I have the equipment). Every stud came out with the two nut method but the last one. The threads somehow stripped and I cannot get any bite when I turn the nut. I tried a pipe wrench several times and the stud moved maybe a 1/4 turn, it is difficult to get a good grip and use a cheater bar and have a enough room to turn the stud. I have been soaking the stud and tapping on it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2018 at 9:45am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2018 at 4:18pm
YEP a decent stud remover like the one NAPA sells will put the bite on just about any stuck stud. If you can only rock the stud make sure you have a good penetrating oil or rust dissolver to soak in as it wiggles back and forth.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alpine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2018 at 6:08pm
Terry, it took only two hard pulls with that device and the stud broke right below the hole. Now to figure out how to drill the stud out. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2018 at 7:34pm
Hindsight is 20/20. No hard pulls on a stud. If it was moving slightly it should be worked back and forth and more PB Blaster or Automatic Transmission Fluid/acetone mixture (50%/50%) is added. Work it back and forth some more. Repeat after the PB Blaster or ATF/acetone has has a chance to soak in.

There are several methods of removing a stud, but most start with center drilling the stud with the appropriate size of drill for the right size EZ out. The first thing will have to be to center punch the stud with a center punch. This needs to be dead center. If you have punched it and it isn't dead center on the stud, the punch hole can be moved by directing the punch towards the center at an angle and with a series of soft blows direct the punch mark back to the center. If the punch mark isn't on center, then you run the risk of hitting threads in the block when you drill out the center of the stud.

Drill the stud all the way through. On a head stud I wouldn't use anything larger than a 5/16" drill bit. At this point you could apply some heat to just the stud until it gets slightly red and let it cool completely. Some use heat, others don't. I use it as a last resort. I personally wouldn't heat the block, but others may have a suggestion on that note.

There are two styles of EZ Outs. One drives straight in and the other has a left hand thread. I have used both, but prefer the straight drive-in type. install the EZ-Out, Keeping in mind that when it is tight in the hole that it is also somewhat brittle and will break if enough force is used. The idea is to work the EZ-out gently but firmly back and forth twisting motion with a wrench or tap handle being very careful not to apply sideways pressure. Use PB Blaster or ATF/acetone mix and if the broken stud is moving keep using your choice of penetrant and plenty of patience. Don't rush things, let the penetrant work it's way in to treads over the course of several days.

With enough patience, most studs will come loose eventually. Clean the treads in the block up with the appropriate size tap (7/16" x 14 tpi)and use #2 Permatex on the replacement studs.

Good luck, and I hope this helps. Patience is a virtue....

46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red"



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HCAT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2018 at 8:41pm
I went through this in 2013 removing the head bolt closest to the fire wall. The bolt was very brittle and broke or chipped with every try.

I just took my time and made sure the first drill was as dead center and level in the broken bolt as I could get.   I drilled several times, increasing the bit size slightly each time, until it was just about into the threads within the head.

There was no easy out available, so I needed to get as close to the head threads as possible and scrape the remnants of the bolt threads while holding a magnet at the hole. Worked out very well, must have been my lucky day.

I then ran a tap to clean the threads and replaced the bolts with studs coated with Permatex thread sealant.

I lost a lot of hair during that surgery, so just take your time and it will work out.

Good luck

Edited by HCAT - 08 Jan. 2018 at 8:47pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2018 at 9:01pm
Another old trick is to place a nut over the end of the broken stud. Then weld itto the stud from the inside of the nut. The heat causes the stud to expand and then contract, helping to break the bond. Then a wrench can be put on the nut and the stud turned out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alpine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2018 at 10:11pm
Thanks. i will update in a few days after I work on this .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan. 2018 at 10:50pm
Try a rescue bit. It could rescue your project. Google it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan. 2018 at 9:55am
Be even more careful with an "easyout" than with the stud removal tool. Easyouts usually break and are next impossible to drill out.
Left handed drill bits are available and when used in a reversible drill not only make a hole but can actually back the stud out as the hole enlarges.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan. 2018 at 12:19pm
Originally posted by TERRY TERRY wrote:

Be even more careful with an "easyout" than with the stud removal tool. Easyouts usually break and are next impossible to drill out.
Left handed drill bits are available and when used in a reversible drill not only make a hole but can actually back the stud out as the hole enlarges.
While it is true that an EZ-Out is easy to break if used improperly, you do have to know how far you can "push" one without breaking it. If you know that limit, then you know when to quit and try something else. I've used EZ-outs in dozens of situations and may broke 3 or 4...That's not saying that the next time I use one that I won't break it! lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan. 2018 at 4:52pm
  All broken-stud-removal devices are very hard, they have to be to work. this makes them brittle, and as TERRY said, very hard, almost impossible to drill. I like the straight splined removers (mine came from Snap-On but I see them in other places now) better than the tapered kind. One reason is if you break it off in this case and some others, you can drive the broken piece on thru into the water jacket and continue on. BW
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 6:22pm
Originally posted by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A wrote:

Originally posted by TERRY TERRY wrote:

Be even more careful with an "easyout" than with the stud removal tool. Easyouts usually break and are next impossible to drill out.
Left handed drill bits are available and when used in a reversible drill not only make a hole but can actually back the stud out as the hole enlarges.
While it is true that an EZ-Out is easy to break if used improperly, you do have to know how far you can "push" one without breaking it. If you know that limit, then you know when to quit and try something else. I've used EZ-outs in dozens of situations and may broke 3 or 4...That's not saying that the next time I use one that I won't break it! lol


Of course the only way to learn how far you can "push" one without breaking it, is to break a few of them. AMHIK!

Like SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A, I have a lot of experience with EZ-OUTs. After 30+ years, I am still learning this lesson. 

Patience is the key. That & a lot of the penetrating oil of your choice. NOT WD-40. It is not a penetrating oil. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RSR_MK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2018 at 8:07am
If all else fails you can put a helicoil in. The last one I was into had one stripped out in the block, would not torque down. I went ahead and picked up a helicoil kit and a 29/64’s cobalt drill bit. Worked out just fine. I’ve checked it several times and it’s holding torque. 

The kit came with 6 coils and I doubt I will ever need them all, I could send it to you and donate a coil to your project. Just send it back when your done. 

I picked up the cobalt bit because I have broken easy outs before and was able to drill them out with cobalt. Not a fun place to be. 

Good luck, it’s not as bad a problem as it seems some times. 

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alpine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2018 at 6:04pm
I have a hole drilled all the way through the stud and tried an eazy out but the stud will not budge. If I try to heat the stud up, can it be done with propane or butane? Is there anything safety wise I need to worry about. Also, I just realized I bent a the valve next to the stud using the tool Terry posted. It was a stupid mistake by me just wanted to mention incase anyone is doing the same thing. I dont know why it did not occur to me that that might happen. But first things first, what next on the stud. I dont think a helicoil will work since it broke below the engine deck.BTW I did break an eazy out but fortunately was able to punch it through. 

Edited by Alpine - 13 Jan. 2018 at 6:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2018 at 8:25pm
A Heli-coil would work if you have the hole drilled in the exact place.  You'd drill the new hole and tap it for the heli-coil and everything is okay.  If the hole you drilled in the stud is on center you could also drill it for the existing-size thread and then re-tap it for the original threads. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2018 at 1:31pm
https://the-original-rescue-bit.myshopify.com/

Worth every penny, saved my project.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alpine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2018 at 8:05pm
So, what do you use to drill a straight hole in the block? I tried to just re-tap the thread (which I know probably wouldn't work anyway) and it is just crooked enough (despite being very careful and slow) where I do not think it will work, not that it would be strong enough anyway. I am going to do the helicoil but I figure this is my last chance to get it right. Is there a preferred drill guide or something else to use?
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