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Head Stud Removal - Last One |
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RSR_MK 
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Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2009 Location: Cabool Mo Status: Offline Points: 657 |
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 Posted: 17 Jan. 2018 at 2:04am |
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I just used the taper in the block as a guide. I was just drilling out an open hole for the helicoil though. I had a clean hole with pulled threads.
If it were me I would look at using the head with a few bolts in it as a guide but see what others think, there would be some risk of head damage. Mike |
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Mark W.
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Posted: 17 Jan. 2018 at 2:23am |
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I take a piece of 1" thick material be it Oak Steel Aluminum what ever and using a drill press I drill the same sized hole I want to guide. The drill press will make it square. I then hold that over the hole (or better yet clamp it in place) and I drill through the perfectly straight hole and into what I want to redrill or RETAP.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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WillyBill
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Joined: 02 Feb. 2014 Location: Northwest TN Status: Offline Points: 211 |
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Posted: 17 Jan. 2018 at 2:36am |
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ralf: thanks for the tip on the rescue bit. I'll be getting some of those. http://www.timesert.com/ (I tried several times to make this an active link but finally gave up) I made the jig below to drill the hole straight. I used the head and a transfer punch to locate the holes and then drilled 3 holes to just fit the head studs. The 4th hole is the size for the Time sert bit. The holes in the jig were drilled on a milling machine so they would be straight. As it turned out I was a little off on the hole location in the top left so I didn't bolt the jig there.  Here is the installed Time sert.  Edited by WillyBill - 17 Jan. 2018 at 4:32am |
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1947 CJ2A #146428
1947 CJ2A #103567 |
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Ol' Unreliable
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Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Posted: 18 Jan. 2018 at 1:45am |
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That looks pretty nice. New valves, seats, and sleeves. Lotsa life left in that block!
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Alpine
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Joined: 04 Oct. 2012 Location: Katy,TX Status: Offline Points: 530 |
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Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 1:58pm |
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I do not have the ability to make a jig like WillyBill's. What is the best way to make sure when I drill out the new hole for the insert that I am drilling in exactly the right spot. I figure I have one shot at getting this right. I have a guide to drill the hole straight but now i need to make sure its exactly spot on.
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RSR_MK
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Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 3:02pm |
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Your old head gasket would make a good template to mark out some hole locations in a hard wood block.
I was able to use the taper in the block from the damaged thread location. I did check an old head gasket and the needed 29/64’s drill bit will fit through the bolt holes in the gasket. I don’t have a head handy at the house but you might check if the drill bit will have clearance enough to use it as a guide. Mike
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ralf
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Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 3:38pm |
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If the bolt broke off below the surface of the block and your broken Studis deep enough, you can use a 7/16 Drill bit or a 13/32 bit to just dimple the end of your broken StudTo find dead center. then use the rescue bit to drill down the center of the stud
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1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor 1941 J-3 Cub 1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor 1942 Clarktor WW2 tug |
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WillyBill
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Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 4:26pm |
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Alpine, Can you post a good clear picture, looking straight down, of the stud hole you are dealing with?
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1947 CJ2A #146428
1947 CJ2A #103567 |
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WeeWilly
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Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 5:24pm |
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As was mentioned before, you could use the head for a guide. Just bolt the head on the block and find a combinations of pipe and or tubing that will just fit in the hole of the head with out to much slop. This is where a lathe would come in handy but you might be able to find some parts that will work, like and old valve guide for example. It would be nice if you could make the first guide to accept a 1/4 or 5/16" drill bit then go up from there to the desired size to thread the new hole.
Or if you had a friend or local machine shop you could have them to make you a set of guides, one for the pilot hole and one for the tap size to thread it. While you were at it you could have a set made for the manifold studs too. Jim |
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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ndnchf
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Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 7:08pm |
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Here is a pretty neat tutorial on removing a broken stud using TIG welding, a washer and a nut.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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RICKG
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Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 7:28pm |
I liked the ending..  Now throw away every one of your drill guides, your so-called easy-outs (easy-brokes), and your 'screw extractors' before someone gets hurt! Do it now! Right this minute!
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I never met a mule I didn't like!
MC51986 "OD MULE" DOD 01-52 '50 CJ3A "Bucksnort". Keep 'em Rollin' |
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Alpine
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Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 7:37pm |
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The stud is out, I am trying to figure out how to accurately drill the hole for the insert. I am thinking that creating a wood template using the gasket and then utilizing that with a drill guide and it might work.
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ralf
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Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 7:58pm |
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If the block is out of the Jeep, take it to the machine shop.
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1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor 1941 J-3 Cub 1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor 1942 Clarktor WW2 tug |
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WeeWilly
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Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 8:00pm |
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I wouldn't say that is the right way but rather that is one way because all applications wouldn't accept that much heat.
Jim |
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Joe DeYoung
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Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 8:17pm |
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I like their method way better then what I have been doing. I've always just placed a nut over the end of the stud and welded down the center of the nut to the stud, but sometimes I hit the side of the nut with the wire first and the nut doesn't weld to the stud very well... never considered the washer first.
 So thanks for the link ndnchf
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Joe DeYoung
to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife. |
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
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Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 10:29pm |
I hope I never break another stud, but if I do... 
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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Alpine
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Joined: 04 Oct. 2012 Location: Katy,TX Status: Offline Points: 530 |
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2018 at 2:44am |
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I read it but it just registered in my brain. I will use the head , well the old head, as a guide. That will get me going straight.
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Greaser007
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Joined: 16 Jan. 2018 Location: Anderson, Calif Status: Offline Points: 850 |
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Posted: 05 Feb. 2018 at 4:24am |
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I have one-more method of removing broken studs.
An old mechanic told me of this old-school-trick to remove broken studs. First thing i would recommend is drill a 1/8-inch Pilot hole 1/4-inch deep into the broken stud. The old-timer just said to put the Heat to the stud and Blow-it-out. Second thing - fire up the cutting torch and put the tip on the edge of the pilot hole until melted and put the Oxygen to it. The oxygen will Blow the stud back out of the hole. ... it's True ! I have done this numerous times successfully. The old timer reminded me that the steel melts way sooner than the Cast Iron. Once you have the stud blown-out, then you carefully pick the remaining pieces out of the hole and chase the threads with a Tap. Worse case - you drill and install the Heli-coil threads. Tada ! Len |
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ndnchf wrote: