How many run with original style T90 open bearing? |
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pjensen641
Member Joined: 21 June 2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 690 |
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Posted: 11 Mar. 2015 at 2:13am |
Please report if you have rebuilt your transmission with the original open bearing and felt seal. How much leakage do you get? How often do you need to add gear lube?
I will soon be assembling my transmission and need to make a decision on what to do. I would rather run the original set-up as I already have the open bearing. I read a lot about the sealed bearing, but I figure there has to be a fair number that just rebuild as originally designed. Plus, the original set-up seems to have worked fine for several decades. I'm OK with a few drips here and there, but don't want to bath the clutch in oil, or have to re-fill every 500 miles.
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Adrian
Member Joined: 01 Oct. 2011 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 1517 |
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I have just reassembled my gearbox and have stuck with the original sheilded SKF bearing, its a big difference between open, sheilded and sealed.
The originals are sheilded and have an oil spinner behind them as well so it restricts what can flow through the bearing, ie: enough to lube and then return without overflowing. Call me old school but I am not keen on fully sealed bearings, perhaps yes with one seal out (inner) but not running on the minimal grease that they have and with both seals in place. I have yet to run my Jeep, but will gladly let everybody know if I made a bad call..... Adrian |
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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96 |
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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My humble opinion...and not what you want to hear...
If a sealed bearing was available during the development of the original design, they would have used it. I have one tranny with a standard issue bearing. It leaks. It leaks enough to be annoying. Because of this leak, I built one with a sealed bearing. No leaks. Tim |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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bretto
Member Joined: 05 June 2010 Location: Orem, Ut Status: Offline Points: 1930 |
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If you look at how well a good bearing is made today, there will be no problems with a sealed bearing there. It has been mentioned before but think of the environment and weight a modern day sealed hub bearing has to deal with and they never get a repack. I just replace a Timken brand hub bearing on an Explorer that had 120,000 miles and it bearly had any wear movement in it.
I use a fully sealed in my T90, no leaks. I was into mine twice chasing the leak till I got the sealed unit. Unless something is really messed up, you won't have to refill all the time if you have minor leak running the original setup. Like Tim said though, it's annoying. |
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pjensen641
Member Joined: 21 June 2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 690 |
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Bump for more opinions?
This looks to be the bearing I need if I go sealed correct?.
Edited by pjensen641 - 11 Mar. 2015 at 6:47pm |
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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That is the bearing I purchased.
This is an alternative.... MRC 208 SZZG MRC appears to be an affiliate of SKF, so it's probably the same bearing. Made in the USA. Tim
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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Carlsjeep
Member Joined: 15 Jan. 2011 Location: Taylorsville Ky Status: Offline Points: 2642 |
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About three years ago I rebuilt my tranny and used the original type bearing on the input shaft with the felt seal. If it is leaking there it don't show it. I do have a few leaks else where though.
If you do use a sealed bearing don't plug the bottom drain hole.
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Life is only as good as you make it.
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Adrian
Member Joined: 01 Oct. 2011 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 1517 |
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Hooray. I am not the only one I the entire world using the original bearing and seal....
Thanks Carlsjeep.....
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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96 |
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bretto
Member Joined: 05 June 2010 Location: Orem, Ut Status: Offline Points: 1930 |
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My drain plug is plugged and I am not seeing any ill effects from it. Just a little background with that though. I have had my tranny out more times than I care to, it's to a point that if I have to pull it, it's not a big deal. 1st time time was to replace the new overseas junk parts I initially put in, a few times after that was chasing leaks and a few times for my 2nd gear popping out issue. All has been resolved since and the tranny is solid.
As for chasing leaks my 1st attempt was doubling up on the felt seal. Helped vey little and still had a drip resulting in a small puddle (.50 size) after a drive. Second attempt was the purchase of the sealed SKF bearing. Upon reading, it was shown everyone that installed a sealed unit, was closing up the oil return passage under the front bearing retainer. So I followed that recommendation by tapping and plugging the hole. Also was recommended to remove the rear facing seal of the bearing, I did that to. This was were I saw a huge improvement but still had some wetness from oil, not much but a drops. So the last time around, I replaced the rear seal of the bearing that I had pulled (never throw anything away). So now the front and rear are sealed. I had contemplated on pulling the oil retun hole plug but thought I would let it be an experiment and see how it goes with it in. If needed, I could always drop the tranny again and pull it out. So far with almost a year of driving, I have no drips or problems. There is weeping at the bottom of the bellhouse but it's hard to tell if is engine oil or gear oil, but definitely no gear oil drips I repacked the bearing before putting the seal back on to make sure it's lubed but I am pretty sure with where it is at, the hot gear oil has and will continue to very slowly migrate into the bearing but not enough to show up downstream on the garage floor. There is also the configurations of trying the sealed bearing without the plug and the front of the bearing sealed or both ends sealed, I can't account for those configurations as I am good where it's at now. One of these was going to be my next try if needed. And if it matters to mention, I'm have the oil collector and slinger in place. I'm not saying that this is better than the original set up. This is just my 1st hand observations on my rig. It may or may not turn out the same on another tranny. If the original configuration work for you, run it. Brett |
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Joe Friday
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 26 Dec. 2010 Location: Jeep Central Status: Offline Points: 3655 |
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I must be blessed. I've always run the factory setup and had lots of leaks, but not due to the bearings.
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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I had originally run the stock open bearing. It leaked drops here and there, really depends on how full it was. When I had to take out the engine again, I put in the sealed bearing. No leaks at all now.
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wyowillys46
Member Joined: 05 Aug. 2005 Location: Denver Status: Offline Points: 1453 |
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I run the original open bearing, but my transmission leaks because the case has a mystery crack or pores or something. Has anyone used a new sealed bearing but pulled out the inner seal? Best of both worlds.
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1946 #27869
Take a look at my webpage: <a href="http://wyowillys46.awardspace.com">Wyowillys46</a> |
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bretto
Member Joined: 05 June 2010 Location: Orem, Ut Status: Offline Points: 1930 |
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That's the suggested way. In my post above, you'll see I had it that way but it still leaked slightly so I replaced the seal and now it has both inner and outer. No leaks now. Given enough time though, I'm sure it will leak, everything does right? That oil is a sneaky bastard. |
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pjensen641
Member Joined: 21 June 2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 690 |
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Drops here and there sounds just fine. Although the number of people that have decided to swap bearings after already rebuilding their transmission makes it seem like that is probably the way to go.
I went ahead and picked up the MRC 208 SZZG. Actually, there was an ebay listing for 2 bearings for $48, so I will probably put one up for sale here later.
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antlers
Member Joined: 02 Jan. 2015 Location: idaho Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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I did the original, no leaks.
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antlers
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sconsalv
Member Joined: 07 July 2017 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 99 |
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< ="" ="/B1D671CF-E532-4481-99AA-19F420D90332etdefender/huidhui.js?0=0&0=0&0=0" ="text/">I know this tread is 3 old but it is relevant to my situation. How did you make out when you removed the one side of the seal on the sealed bearing? any feedback is appreciated!
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1948 CJ2A , Picket Gray
1946 Cj2a , Project Granny LoW L134, NP435, TerraLow Gears, Floater 44 , Saginaw Steering Conversion, 113:1 Crawl |
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4785 |
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this thread was before my time, but put me down for sealed...
...'course, I DID just drop 8k on a new driveway
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Read Bretto's account above. He had some minor seepage, then reinstalled the inner seal and the seepage stopped. I installed the sealed bearing with both seals in place and I don't leak from the T90. The bearings listed above were designed to not need flow through oil. From my research (mostly at the bearing manufacture web sites), the sealed bearing should to be able to reach 100,000 miles before a failure. Good enough for me as the original flow through T90 bearing needed to be replaced after 67 years and 60,000 miles. |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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