How to massage firewall?

OK, so this past weekend I replaced both engine mounts, transfer case mount, and transmission mount. The engine mounts were probably 100%. They were in good condition and marked "Made in Korea" which tells me they were replaced at one point. The transfer case mount was garbage, and a bit flattened. The transmission mount was oil soaked, and maybe a bit flat as well. Unfortunately, whatever change in geometry I gained from raising up the transmission was not enough. The linkages still bind against the firewall. I am going to drill the remaining holes in the rear crossmember and then cinch the body completely down, starting at the back. Then I am going to see exactly how much I need to adjust the firewall. I have a bunch of methods I am considering. I bought a round flat planishing bit for my air chisel. I am going to try and heat the area (without cooking off the Line-X) and see if I can lightly planish the metal in the offending area back. I may try a dolly and a ball peen hammer as well. Dead blow hammer and block of hardwood might be next. Lastly, I may drill a hole and use a 10 lb. slide hammer with a heavy duty washer and hockey puck mounted onto it. I should have an update this week. Wish me luck.

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bosshoff Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 206	Post Options Post Reply Quote bosshoff Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Nov. 2020 at 5:55pm
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bosshoff Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 206	Post Options Post Reply Quote bosshoff Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Nov. 2020 at 5:56pm
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bosshoff Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 206	Post Options Post Reply Quote bosshoff Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Nov. 2020 at 5:56pm
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bosshoff Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 206	Post Options Post Reply Quote bosshoff Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Nov. 2020 at 5:57pm
	5th and last picture.
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Rich M. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 03 Oct. 2015 Location: 21757 Status: Offline Points: 185	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rich M. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Nov. 2020 at 7:30pm
	Any chance it's something with the drivetrain position? Old mounts, something tweaked, drivetrain sitting diagonal in the frame, frame tweaked? Just talking out loud.

bosshoff Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 206	Post Options Post Reply Quote bosshoff Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Nov. 2020 at 9:43pm
	Rich, that is a great suggestion. I did not even touch the motor and transmission mounts. If the trans mount is collapsed, that would certainly affect the angle of the motor.
	Chop chop

Oldpappy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4918	Post Options Post Reply Quote Oldpappy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Nov. 2020 at 4:34am
	Yes that certainly could change the angle and even the lateral position of the drive train. The mounts are usually toast after all those years. I was looking at the transmission mount in my 47 while underneath running new brake lines and it looks like crumbly dirt, so I will be replacing mine. Whether or not the mounts are causing your problem, they should still be replaced as a best practice, and now is the time to do it. With the fenders off you can get to the engine mounts fairly easy, and you can put a jack under the transmission and drop the cross member to get to the transmission mount.
	If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!

Oldpappy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 4918	Post Options Post Reply Quote Oldpappy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Nov. 2020 at 5:20am
	Rich's comment above caused me to think of something else that could possibly cause such a problem. Check your driver side engine mount. Beginning with the 1949 CJ3A, and M38 the engine mounting plate has the left side foot facing forward instead of to the rear as on CJ2A up through 1948. This was done to facilitate the larger dual action fuel/vacuum pumps used on those Jeeps to improve the vacuum wiper motor function. I have seen the later engines with this forward facing foot "adapted" to earlier frames in creative ways. If you see something like that please post a picture.
	If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!

fullgarage Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 15 May 2020 Location: Celina, TX Status: Offline Points: 41	Post Options Post Reply Quote fullgarage Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Nov. 2020 at 4:46pm
	Been there, done it! Check the angle of the engine. Should not be more than a couple degrees sloping to the firewall. My crossmember was bent and the mounts were shot and the throttle linkage looked like yours. Another giveaway was the clutch z-bar was not level from the frame to the transmission.
	David - Celina,TX 1948 CJ-2a (on the road but never finished)

bosshoff Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 206	Post Options Post Reply Quote bosshoff Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Nov. 2020 at 4:06pm
	OK, so this past weekend I replaced both engine mounts, transfer case mount, and transmission mount. The engine mounts were probably 100%. They were in good condition and marked "Made in Korea" which tells me they were replaced at one point. The transfer case mount was garbage, and a bit flattened. The transmission mount was oil soaked, and maybe a bit flat as well. Unfortunately, whatever change in geometry I gained from raising up the transmission was not enough. The linkages still bind against the firewall. I am going to drill the remaining holes in the rear crossmember and then cinch the body completely down, starting at the back. Then I am going to see exactly how much I need to adjust the firewall. I have a bunch of methods I am considering. I bought a round flat planishing bit for my air chisel. I am going to try and heat the area (without cooking off the Line-X) and see if I can lightly planish the metal in the offending area back. I may try a dolly and a ball peen hammer as well. Dead blow hammer and block of hardwood might be next. Lastly, I may drill a hole and use a 10 lb. slide hammer with a heavy duty washer and hockey puck mounted onto it. I should have an update this week. Wish me luck.
	Chop chop

Stev Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stev Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Nov. 2020 at 5:48pm
	BFH Just one last thought - going forward even after you bash in the fire wall - you may find it is impossible to remove the engine from the transmission because there will be no room to remove the bolts from the top of the bell housing. An option - You could install a transmission floor cover plate from a M38 - you might be able to modify it instead of the tub with the BFH. https://walcks4wd.com/Bolt-In-Transmission-Floor-Cover-Plate-Assembly-1950-1971-M38-M38A1-CJ5-CJ6_p_1978.html
	Stev 1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored

bosshoff Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 206	Post Options Post Reply Quote bosshoff Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Nov. 2020 at 6:26pm
	Stev, i need to move the firewall towards the driver, not towards the front bumper. It is only a small area where I am having an issue.
	Chop chop

bosshoff Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 206	Post Options Post Reply Quote bosshoff Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Nov. 2020 at 6:27pm
	Inside pic
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TERRY Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400	Post Options Post Reply Quote TERRY Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Nov. 2020 at 6:52pm
	Are you sure the linkage is oriented properly on the engine?
	BOULDER 48 2A

Stev Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stev Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Nov. 2020 at 7:07pm
	Bosshoff, I get that you are trying to make room by moving the firewall towards the rear of the Jeep in that spot. I think you have a bigger problem than just the linkage in the long run. I think you will only be able to pull the engine by removing the tub or by pulling the engine and transmission an assembly. You will just not have room to get to the bolts on the top of the bell housing. You could cut away the part you want to modify (plus the area where the upper bellhousing bolt are) and bend out the linkage area on the cover plate. Here is a link to just a top cover. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-M38A1-Upper-Floor-Board-Section-Pan-Transmission-Cover/373329223165?hash=item56ec27ddfd:g:jDUAAOSwbJhee4lT The good new is you can bash in the tub and see if that works. If not, you can always add the M38 cover. All good - let us know how the bashing goes!
	Stev 1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored

bosshoff Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 30 Apr. 2012 Location: chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 206	Post Options Post Reply Quote bosshoff Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Nov. 2020 at 7:10pm
	I don’t know Terry, it looks like it only goes one way.
	Chop chop

Stev Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stev Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Nov. 2020 at 7:41pm
	The linkage looks to be in the proper orientation.
	Stev 1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored

48cj2a Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bantam Trailer Moderator Sponsor Member Joined: 22 July 2005 Location: Central, IL Status: Offline Points: 4523	Post Options Post Reply Quote 48cj2a Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Nov. 2020 at 12:52am
	You can tell pretty clearly that the area for the pedal is not even close on its forming to factory as see in this 46 2A tub.
	Art C USAF (Retired) 47 CJ2A #134955 Project 48 CJ2A #206759 62 L6226 Station Wagon #58167 10900 45 T3-C #191 Project http://www.bantamt3c.com http://www.48cj2a.com