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Incrementalism. WTJ, A 1948 2a lefty

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    Posted: 14 Feb. 2022 at 11:34pm
I grew up with a '46 2a with the tool slots and  5 yrs ago was thrilled to find this 1948 lefty to fill the void that selling the '46 had left in my flat fender soul.
In a sputter of inspiration I pulled the T90/D18 bundle to address the classic  2nd gear issue having no idea what changes my recent marriage into an instant family of four would bring to the "discretionary project". All work on the jeep stopped.
Now I can resume, starting with the transmission.

Here is the e-brake as it looked when I pulled the drum 5 yrs ago.

I found a good plug n play T90/D18 with working e-brake to replace the one I took out. It was not cheap but less than a rebuilt one would have cost unless I did it myself. Time being so dear the drop in was a good choice for me. I will rebuild the worn out T90 at some point when the time becomes available.


Edited by jhg - 03 Mar. 2022 at 11:17pm
1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2022 at 11:49pm

Tops on the parts quest besides the trans bundle has been replacing the Solex carb (worked fine as far as I could tell) with the original Carter WO that came from the factory. I got this super duper Scoutpilot built 636sa from Greg on this site and couldn't be happier. I do not have a lot of money in this jeep and felt the expense was well worth it given everything I have read about both the WO and Scoutpilots workmanship.



Edited by jhg - 14 Feb. 2022 at 11:50pm
1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2022 at 11:59pm


Also waiting in the wings for attention is this nice Koenig king winch. I have the pto, the shafting and the cj5 mount/bumper bundle it came with. Excited to see how that fits up and what I need to do to modify it to fit my willys 2a.


Edited by jhg - 15 Feb. 2022 at 12:00am
1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2022 at 12:10am

Wallace as found 5 yrs ago on our only outing

 

I have also acquired the correct signal lights for the front, and want to put STA Traxions on to replace the 6.00 NDT's seen in the photo. I waffled back and forth over the STA 6.50's or 7.00 NDT's. I really liked how little throw the NDT's make when in mud and dirty guck. They are the cleanest running tire I have ever used.

Wife in photo not for sale




Edited by jhg - 15 Feb. 2022 at 12:20am
1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WillysWally Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2022 at 9:12am
Good Morning JHG:

PM sent!

Regards,

Walter
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2022 at 12:39pm
Wallace looks like a solid starting place Thumbs Up
1946 CJ2A #69750 - "Plowshare"
Bantam T3-C #8502
Bantam T3-C #9704
Bantam T3-C #15849
1969 Kaiser CJ5 (sold)

I'm so efficient that I almost always have parts leftover ;)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2022 at 2:56pm
Thanks. I have it pretty good compared to some of the rust and damage and bubbafies others have had to contend with.
1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2022 at 3:23pm

I will need a new companion flange... this ones got a pretty deep groove at the sealing area.

But the front yolk looks good with only discoloration at the seal interface. Good one is on the left for comparison with a bad one.


Edited by jhg - 26 Feb. 2022 at 9:00pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2022 at 3:30pm
I painted some easy parts in a dull moment. Incrementalism. 
1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2022 at 3:36pm

Before I drop in the gear bundle I want to re-seal it. I want to also replace the T90's main bearing with sealed if that is not a stupid idea and more work than my ignorance thinks it is. 

If I do the main bearing I will remove the inside seal and leave it an oil bath. Best of both worlds I think.
1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2022 at 4:24pm
  If I were to remove the inner seal on the bearing (I wouldn’t), I would leave the drain-back hole open (I would anyway) just in case any oil leaked by the bearing it could find its way back into the transmission. 
  This will produce a flurry of responses and opinions rivaling the “What oil” post. LOL
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2022 at 6:21pm
Braced for impact! 
1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2022 at 10:17pm
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

  If I were to remove the inner seal on the bearing (I wouldn’t), I would leave the drain-back hole open (I would anyway) just in case any oil leaked by the bearing it could find its way back into the transmission. 
  This will produce a flurry of responses and opinions rivaling the “What oil” post. LOL
BW 

True, this is one we have beat around a bit. My limited experience is this: I put the sealed bearing in, sealed up the drain hole and kept the felt seal on the shaft. I didn't take long for oil to find its way around the sealed bearing and, with the return hole plugged, it had nowhere to go except up against the felt seal which it overwhelmed and leaked out the nose cone.
Next time in, I kept the sealed bearing, opened up the rerun drain and replaced the felt seal. So far, no leaks in that spot. 
Your milage may vary.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb. 2022 at 4:54pm
Today I finally had some time to work on re-sealing the transmission/T case bundle I acquired. My goal is to be able to drive some fire roads April 2nd, my birthday.




First was to clean off the encrusted unit. Look familiar? A right of passage for many a flat fender steward. 3 hours or so later, and after much scrubbing and chipping, it is good enough to start taking some of it apart. Final clean will be before the paint. Right now all I care about is being able to assure no contamination while its open.




Edited by jhg - 20 Feb. 2022 at 4:57pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb. 2022 at 8:04pm
The first order was to replace the front yolk out of the transfer case. Not sure what adventures it was a part of, but somehow the dust shield was toasted and the outer surface was too far gone to polish back.

 


I had a good take off replacement that needed some polishing to allow a good mate up for the new seal. However, the splines needed chasing as well to remove some burrs. If only used parts could speak, right? 

The castle nut was pretty deformed where a past bubba had used a punch to abuse it past the cotter hole. I don't want to know why that had to happen and fingers crossed I will never know... 
 Stuff like that bugs me so I dressed it with a bastard file.

.
Out with the old, in with the new. 


Edited by jhg - 21 Feb. 2022 at 2:49pm
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Edited by jhg - 05 Mar. 2022 at 10:04pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2022 at 1:46pm
Not much time to work on the jeep but I needed to do something to feed the bear.
 I decided to "recondition" the shift fork pin on the transfer case using JB Weld. The pin was galled in several spots by the forks working side to side. 
Since the pin is easily removed for inspection, lightly stressed and easily replaced, it seemed a good candidate to test the effectiveness of a repair using a filler. Probably the better solution would be to bore out the fork holes and press in a suitable bushing sized for a tighter fit. The sloppy fit is what led to the galling. Maybe that will happen "someday..."

You can see the distinct shoulder lines showing start of the galling

Guessing the wear is as much a result of vibration as from use.
It will be informative to see how well this performs.


Edited by jhg - 26 Feb. 2022 at 9:42pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2022 at 2:06pm
Originally posted by jhg jhg wrote:

... Incrementalism. 

I am SO stealing that for the name of my next flatty Wink
1946 CJ2A #69750 - "Plowshare"
Bantam T3-C #8502
Bantam T3-C #9704
Bantam T3-C #15849
1969 Kaiser CJ5 (sold)

I'm so efficient that I almost always have parts leftover ;)
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