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Industrial L134

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CBAUER View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 Jan. 2018 at 11:03pm
Ok so I’ve had this industrial motor (L134 later model block) and it had the exhaust and intake man. Off for 3 years. Also the water pump is off as well.
I’m kicking around the idea to clean it up and try to start the motor. If it runs good and has good specs to install it into my 3a.
I’ve pulled the head and it is standard piston with good looking cylinders. The valves operate smooth but I know I should pull them since the there were dirt dauber nest in the block. Lots of rust and scale in the water passages in the block. The outside of the block is really dirty from it previous life as a water transfer pump. This motor has minimal hours on it.

Question:
1. Best way to flush the block!
2. How far do you think I should take it down just to check it for specks

I’ve pulled the distributor and its very solid, the springs and tappets look great.

I have 2 motors ready that need complete rebuilds that are disassembled already.
I’m thinking that this motor might have some really good life left in it!
What do the GoDevil gurus have to say to the best way to clean it up and check it.
I await your most humbling responses in this most likely worthless endever!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 12:00pm
I would clean it up, put the head back on and check the compression and oil pressure andif they checked out OK put all back together and run it. If it is a low hour engine you should be just fine.

   Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 1:45pm
There was a pretty good discussion on a Industrial motor a guy from FL. had last summer with very high compression test readings. Later on E-Bay I saw a head for an industrial motor with different combustion chamber than my stock one. Would sure like a pic of that head(inside), the whole thing for that matter to offer a better opinion, might be able to get a few more ponies with that head. I'm from the WeeWilly school of thought though...clean it up and run it. I'd probably lap the valves.....no better time for easy access. By the way what's a dirt dauber nest? Joe Wadoyado

Edited by wadoyado - 10 Jan. 2018 at 1:52pm
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 2:16pm
Here is a link to the 3A Page and a recent discussion about head seals that finishes with regular heads and industrial heads.  There are some decent photos too.  Also, in one of my posts, I linked to an older discussion here with tons more info on industrial heads.  Lots of these photos are gone, (thanks Photobucket) but there is still something to be learned...




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cowboy64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 3:25pm
dirt daubers are a wasp looking critter that will fill ANY and every available hole with their mud nest..a real pia !!
mam
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 3:25pm
The industrial heads are generally lower compression affairs, and the intakes are smaller.  Everything in the block and rotating assembly should be ordinary L134.

Joe- "Dirt dauber" = mud wasp
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 3:29pm
Originally posted by wadoyado wadoyado wrote:

By the way what's a dirt dauber nest? Joe Wadoyado

We call em mud daubers in Utah.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 7:23pm
Ahawk. thanks for the link, the industrial head looks like the one I saw on E-bay. Cowboy64, mbullism, smfulle thanks for clearing up dirt dauber, in my neck of the woods called mason wasp's...never heard wasps called daubers but I live a pretty sheltered life here in Grand Rapids MI. Mbullism are the intakes(in the block) smaller? Thanks Joe W
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 7:35pm
nope... the block is standard fare... the bore for the intake at the carb seat is smaller, and often the studs to mount the carb are clocked 180 out
1946 CJ2A #69750 - "Plowshare"
2016 JK unlimited (Hers)
1969 Kaiser CJ5 (sold)

Analog spoken here....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CBAUER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 8:09pm
Does anyone think that I should check the crank speck while I have it on the engine stand cleaning the outside for painting or just spray and pray. I'm going to change the head and also the oil pan. I took the timing cover off and can reduce the size of the cam gear oiler if needed as well.
Any suggestions or even derogatory remarks are welcomed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CBAUER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 8:14pm
All the attachments from the 3A original engine will be used with an electronic dist. I love having the timing marks on the timing cover, don't even need to worry about the flywheel aligning for the bell housing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CBAUER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 8:17pm
The intakes and exhaust valves are the same on the motors just the manifolds on the industrials have smaller sizes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gmcjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 9:20pm
Sounds like a prime runner to me! A  Water/Vinegar mix seems to work pretty good at flushing water jackets. 



Gary

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 9:27pm
If you still have the industrial carb and want to get rid of it I might be interested.

And they are either 'mud daubers' or 'dirt daubers' here in the South....both or used. I guess it depends on what 'Moma an nim' taught you.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2018 at 9:31pm
how far you go in cleaning and checking against factory spec will be nothing more than a measure of your tolerance for risk... I pulled an industrial engine out of a welder.  Pulled the heads, gauged the bores, pulled the rod and main caps and plastigauged... then lapped the valves.  The jury is still out.  I didn't have the water jacket rust and daubers to contend with.

Edited by mbullism - 10 Jan. 2018 at 9:37pm
1946 CJ2A #69750 - "Plowshare"
2016 JK unlimited (Hers)
1969 Kaiser CJ5 (sold)

Analog spoken here....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CBAUER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan. 2018 at 2:01pm
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pictures of the industrial motor and the supersonic
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CBAUER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan. 2018 at 2:03pm
posting the pics didn't work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CBAUER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2018 at 5:46pm
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