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Jeep V-6 / Borg Warner transmissions

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oldtime View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr. 2022 at 7:35am
A long stroked aluminum block 266 ? 
Very interesting if the rods have enough clearance.
I suppose increasing the short 215 stroke should notably increase the engines low rpm torque.
So on the 198/215 bellhousing, what does that measure ?
I’m guessing it will be right near 8-7/8” deep ???


Edited by oldtime - 05 Apr. 2022 at 7:37am
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mckaymotoworks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr. 2022 at 9:43am
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

A long stroked aluminum block 266 ? 
Very interesting if the rods have enough clearance.
I suppose increasing the short 215 stroke should notably increase the engines low rpm torque.
So on the 198/215 bellhousing, what does that measure ?
I’m guessing it will be right near 8-7/8” deep ???

Yes, has been done many times, popular with the MGB crowd, which I purchased my 215 for, but leaning towards the CJ5 since I have the correct bell housing. Here's an Offenhauser bell housing, same mating as mine:

I will measure when the rain lets up. 

Here's one article that covers some stroker and build options: http://https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/215_indy.php
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Woof! Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2022 at 6:32pm
Oldtimer, or anyone else.  I got a great deal on a T14 transmission to use with my Buick V6, but it has the later 10 spline 3/4 input shaft. I realize I need the 1-1/8" shaft that the T90J or earlier T14s have, but is there another solution to my issue such as a different clutch and pilot bearing or something else? Thanks in advance, all.  Cool

Edited by Woof! - 15 June 2022 at 7:06pm
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oldtime View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2022 at 7:43pm
IMHO the worst feature of the T14 is it’s oddball 10 spline mainshaft.
(output shaft)
Chances of locating a 10 spline Warn overdrive are getting very scarce.
On the plus side the T14 has near optimum spacing of the selectable ratios (incremental increases) that I generally refer to as steps.
The input shaft is properly referred to as the main drive gear (MDG).
It’s “stickout” length from front of transmission is 2-1/8” less than it’s OAL.
The Jeep T14 was only made in two variations.
Both have 1-1/8” diameter MDG’s .
The early Jeep T14 used behind 1967-1971 Dauntless has 11-1/2“ OAL MDG.
The late Jeep T14 used behind 1972 -1975 AMC I-6 has 1O-1/2” OAL MDG.

I am not aware of any Mfgr. using a T14 with a 3/4” diameter MDG. Are you sure about that ?
That said the T90 J MDG certainly will not fit.

“IF” the T14 has the correct stickout length of 9-3/8” then you will need to find a 10-1/2” diameter clutch driven disk with proper spline count and hub diameter. May also need to change your crank pilot bushing.


Edited by oldtime - 15 June 2022 at 10:14pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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drm101 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 June 2022 at 8:28am
I have one with a 3/4" pilot as well. It has a shorter stick out length (8 1/2"-ish) and the matching Buick bellhousing has the spacer on it. The bell (with spacer) is almost an inch shorter than the bell I am using on my '66 CJ5 that has no spacer. I can take a few pics if you want them. The only reason I am not using it on the '66 CJ5 I'm assembling is I couldn't find a 3/4" pilot bushing, and I have a different T14 with longer stick out and bell with no spacer. I also have that 10 spline Warn OD. 
I believe the clutch is the same for both since they both have the same spline dia and count.  You also have to use the big hole t- case. 
Also, if you have the shorter bell and stickout, the trans crossmember will need to be moved an inch ahead, or the engine mounts moved an inch rearward. That would affect shifter hole locations, too. Lots to think about. 


Edited by drm101 - 16 June 2022 at 8:55am
Dean
'47 CJ2A "Ron"
'66 CJ5 "Buckie"
The less the Power the More the Force
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 June 2022 at 8:56am
Yeah Dean that makes perfect sense.
That would be the 1972-1975 Jeep T14 used behind the 232/258 I-6.
3/4” pilot and not the spline shaft diameter.
You take out your OEM oilite crankshaft bushing and have a machinist refresh the bore to fit your pilot.

The later Jeep T14 has a shorter stickout than was normally used behind a Dauntless. So instead of using a 2-5/8” thick adapter plate one would need a 1-5/8” thick adapter plate.
The 1-5/8” thick adapter plate is a much rarer find than the 2-5/8” thick adapter.
I think I still may have an extra one available with my spare parts.

Yes having a shorter adapter plate shortens the OAL of the drivetrain and could potentially put the engine too far back into the firewall if the transfer case location remains standard.


Edited by oldtime - 16 June 2022 at 9:02am
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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