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Knock after rebuild

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RSR_MK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RSR_MK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2021 at 2:10am
Certainly worth looking into. I listened to the timing cover with a rod but the sound might not transfer to the cover in this case. Seems to resonate through the block but not in any one location. 

Thanks for the suggestion. 

Mike

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MooCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2021 at 2:18am
Got around to trying this out tonight, I noticed no difference on any cylinder when pulling the plug wire. I could be totally imagining things as I still hear the knock bit it did not seem as loud tonight. So far I have run the engine 1 hours in the garage and put 15 miles of regular driving. I drained the warm oil into a clean pan tonight and everything looked good.  I let it set a while and ran it past a magnet and found 2 really small specs of metal on the magnet. No bearing dust or anything out of the ordinary so far. Using the stethoscope tonight I am less sure where the sound is coming from. On the side of the oil pan I think I hear it in all cylinders. Any other ideas.  Should I drive it a bit and drop the pan or drop the pan now?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2021 at 7:07am
Lets try the easiest and cheapest tests first.

Since the knock is hard to chase with a stethoscope as well as your other findings, I suspect it may not be as much of an engine issue as it is a engine isolation issue. Look at the engine mounts, are they in good shape & bolted tight to both the frame & the engine?

Is there anything that is attached to the engine that is occasionally touching the body or frame? For example is the generator adjustment arm touching the fender or horn? Is the exhaust pipe suspended from the frame & body by flexible connections or solid metal straps? Are the rubber straps in good shape? Are the engine/exhaust pipe end of these straps free of contact with the body & frame? Is the hood rod touching the engine anywhere? Is the air filter tube attached to the carburetor with flexible hoses?

Is there any sheet metal that is loose? Are the fenders rattling on loose bolts? If so they may be vibrating in sync with the engine & making a knocking sound.

Is there an exhaust leak at or near the manifold? A leak there can sound like a knock, or a rhythmic squeak. I know that an exhaust leak usually gets worse with engine RPM. Yet, every now & then....


I am sure that you get the idea as to what to look for good luck, & let us know what you find.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe DeYoung Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2021 at 1:19pm
Lee's post stirred a long forgotten memory for me. Years ago I had a knocking sound on my empire tractor. Dropped the pan, removed the rod and main caps and all was well so I put it back together and ran it thinking it may be a wrist pin. I ran it some more and noticed the crank pulley wobbling a bit and suspected that may be the source of my knock. Sure enough, when I dismantled my tractor for restoration, the crank diameter were the pulley was mounted was way undersized. That was the source of my knocking.   
Joe DeYoung
to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2021 at 7:35pm
I just have to ask: If the motor only had 20,000 original miles, why did you mess with it in the first place?

Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2021 at 8:24pm
Check valve lash adjustment ? 
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2021 at 8:25pm
Originally posted by Steelyard Blues Steelyard Blues wrote:

I just have to ask: If the motor only had 20,000 original miles, why did you mess with it in the first place?

Micah


I can actually speak to this since I've followed Shane on the trail before and can testify to the amount of oil it was burning. I don't think exhaust is supposed to be blue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2021 at 10:50pm
I'm not a L-Head expert. I'm use to OHV motors burning oil when the guides or stem seals go bad. I didn't think it was an issue with the L-Head. Just trying to see if there was something else going on prior to tear down. I will let the engine experts resume their diagnosis. 

Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MooCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2021 at 1:12am
It’s not anything rattling but I thought you might be on to something with the motor mounts. I switched to big willys bushing motor mounts but they are way more solid than stock, I like the design bit there was not much bushing on them.  I changed to new stock mounts tonight. The knock did seem to quiet down a bit but did not go away. Now it seems to be completely in the oil pan which led me to think I was hitting the oil pick up but I checked that when it was out of the Jeep. I crawled underneath with the scope and it was the same loudness front to back and side to side on the pan.  Drove it another 10 miles with no change.  I can not hear it while driving. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MooCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2021 at 1:25am
My Jeep spent 30 years in my grandpas back yard with no hood and the plugs out. When I restored the Jeep I didn’t do much to the engine other getting it to run.  It ran good for 4000 miles and started to smoke and smell like fuel and exhaust. I did the valves, guides and rings at that time. I made my first error when I did not use the correct bearings when I put it back together, that’s when I started down this road. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote a4cj2a77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2021 at 6:55am
I've heard fan belts make some crazy noises, some brand new and noisy. Forgot you said noisy by 3&4
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2021 at 5:32pm

  We are all just giving reasons for what could cause a noise and not knowing how far you went into the rebuild but one thing that could cause that knocking sound would be the wrong plug in the oil gallery inside the block and the crank is hitting it.

   Jim
47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MooCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 2:01pm
Here are the pictures of my bearings after about 50 miles and an hour of idle time. In the picture are rod caps 1,3 and 4 the center main cap. Thoughts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncamoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 3:01pm
A bit too much scoring. How clean was the inerior of the motor?
john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldmansimek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 3:20pm
The top and third one down have some weird wear patterns, was the new crank polished? Where did you get the crankshaft from and did you or a machine shop check it out.  I had a very similar problem with a chevy straight six, customer had installed an aftermarket crankshaft and it was knocking/ticking however he drove it for about 3000 miles before bringing it in, I found 3 rod bearings and 2 main with very similar marks but more dramatic, it ended up being several crank journals were out of round and needed to be turned and polished.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MooCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 3:28pm
The engine was tore down completely and hot pressure washed inside and out.  The crank came from Kaiser willys and the bearings came with it.  I was going to do the crank locally but with Covid the lead times were crazy. It was 20 over on the mains and 60 over on the rods.  I plastic gaged at time of install and it was right is spec. I did not do any other checking. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 3:57pm
  Did you clean the oil passages in the crank, make sure there was no grinding trash left in there?
  How does a crankshaft get “over”, as in oversize? When a crankshaft is ground, it becomes smaller, or undersize. Undersized bearings are required to fit it. When a cylinder is bored it becomes oversized. 
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MooCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 5:39pm
Sorry about that, I miss spoke. The crank was obviously undersized and the bearings seem to check out upon assembly. I did pull all of the oil galley plugs and cleaned everything with high-pressure water and a brush. I also cleaned all of the holes out on the new crank. Affected to see some thing on the number three or four cylinder because that’s what I originally thought I heard the knock but I did not expect to see it on my number one cylinder as I’ve never had a problem up there. Did not hole number three Because I was tired of getting oil dripped on me so I can check that one tonight. Is the fact that the main bearing looks brand new and indicator that there is not metal traveling through the system?
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