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L head torque specs

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neptco19 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote neptco19 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: L head torque specs
    Posted: 08 Mar. 2006 at 6:49am
Looking for the specs for the head and also the bolt tighting pattern.  Thanks.
Jason
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sean View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2006 at 3:34pm
Jason:

The manuals call for 60-70 ft-lbs for bolts, 60-65 ft-lbs for studs.

Sean


Edited by sean - 22 June 2008 at 10:17am
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p3ferris View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2006 at 3:44pm

I am guessing that it is for the 48 cj2a with a L134.

cylinder head bolts  65 to 75 ft.lbs

cylinder head nuts  60 to 65 ft. lbs.

front to back

15----9----5----7----13

10----3----1----2----12

11----6----4----8----14

hope this helps

 

Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2006 at 3:56pm
I checked 3 repair manuals from 1948-49 and the torques are as stated by me above.  Since there were differences I thought I had better  triple check.
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote neptco19 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2006 at 4:22pm
Thanks guys. 
Jason
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul_B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar. 2006 at 1:56am
If I can also add a bit of advice, I changed my head gasket about two weeks ago (see earlier thread) and used above torques setting.   I ended up stripping a thread on a block socket because I oiled the thread (which give a flase and higher torque).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar. 2006 at 5:56am
Ed:

Which manuals did you find your 65-75 torques in?

A '45 manual (which is stud only)  calls for 60-65

A '53 manual calls for 60-70 for bolts

A '65 manual calls for 60-70 for bolts

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar. 2006 at 3:23pm

Jeep service and repair

Motor Age flat rate

Motors auto repair 1948

Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar. 2006 at 3:43pm

I just looked them up again.

BOOK

1. page 186

2.page 998

3.page 773

 Sean, I used these for my 48 and I had no problem

Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote neptco19 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar. 2006 at 2:33am
Well I went to 65 and had no leaks.  So I guess that'll work  
Jason
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar. 2006 at 7:22am
Ed:

So none of these are Willys manuals?

Unusual specs.  I just checked my 2 Motors manuals, and Chiltons manual.  I can find nothing that says 65-75.  All three list 60-65 for years 45 through 49.  Then beginning 1950, they call for 60-70.  All of which jive with the Willys manuals.

I think I'd stick with Willys official specs.

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar. 2006 at 7:24am
Now for my own curiosity,

Has anyone ever heard of a torque spec for the stud-to-block?

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ritt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar. 2006 at 9:59am

Originally posted by sean sean wrote:

Now for my own curiosity,

Has anyone ever heard of a torque spec for the stud-to-block?

Sean

We build compressors & vacuum pumps here for submarine service and we just shoulder the stud. I have to say our mechanic uses an old hand pneumatic stud driver and a #3 fit for the hole (don't know what Willys used for fit ~2 is std.). No torque, but I think after 30 years, he goes by "feel" . If the fit doesn't feel quiet right in a service job or rebuild, he will use a Loctite (sealer type) to be sure of a good hold (on surface ships).

Hope this helps

Rit

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar. 2006 at 5:55am
Ritt:

Lacking a torque spec, I figured I'd just have to make sure they're good and tight, but was hoping to find a torque spec.

I've worked on studded assemblies before, where if the stud wasn't tightened enough to begin with, it would turn some more when you torqued the nut on it.  And if the loctite or other sealant has already set, then this breaks the seal.  I want to avoid that.

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merc_man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan. 2013 at 9:51pm
I loosend a few of the head bolts a while back to take off a few of the things that bolt to the head. Should I take them all loose and retighten in order?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote garage gnome Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan. 2013 at 9:53pm
No. You can just tighten them up. Your head gasket has already be torqued and squashed.
Nate
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepRoger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2013 at 1:47am
Sean... The 1952 Willys Service Standards booklet, pg 34, says "Cylinder head screws - 60-70ft lbs." Not quite sure what they are referring to. I see nothing in there that specifies torques for cylinder head studs or studs-to-block. And as you already pointed out, "Cylinder head stud nuts - 60-70ft lbs". Text also says "Recheck with engine water at 150°F" (and this subject has come up quite a bit). ...R
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Giddy Up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2013 at 9:02am
Excuse my ignorance; but does it mean I have to torque the nuts, start the engine and let it run and then re-torque the nuts while the engine is about 150F?
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