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L134 Won't Idle Without Choke

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    Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 9:07pm
Hi Guys, I've never posted here but have been following the page for several months. I have spent many hours researching on this page and others trying to find a solution to my problem. I'm not one to jump in asking questions until I've pretty much exhausted most resources. I realize the subject of this post has been covered many times so please bear with me.

My L134 in a CJ2A that I'm restoring has been completely rebuilt. I can't get it to idle below 850 rpm and only with the choke mostly closed. I've always suspected a vacuum leak but haven't been able to find one. I've tried every suggestion on these pages except the possibility of a cracked intake manifold. I'm about ready for that but thought I'd ask if anyone knows anything else I can try. Here is what I have done:

Compression is 108 lbs +/- 1 across the 4 cylinders.
Vacuum is fluctuating around 14 +/- 1.
I've tried 4 different carbs, one recently rebuilt by Scout Pilot. Another one that I installed without opening then later rebuilding it with a KaiserWillys kit. A third and fourth one that I just installed as is.
I've verified the idle passages are open on each carb. 
I've pulled and cleaned and measured every jet and passage.
I've changed diffuser gaskets 2 or 3 times and have crushed the copper sleeves.
I've used the carb cleaner and propane methods of tracing leaks with none found.
I've tried tweaking the metering rod up and down.
I've verified timing set at 5 degrees.
I've readjusted the valves going over them several time to verify .016 clearance.
Points set at .020, dwell = 41.
Plugs set at .030. Engine running very rich, plugs turn black quickly.

One thing that might be a clue to someone: when I start the engine cold, it runs very rough for the first minute or so, then smooths out. Like one cylinder isn't firing.

No matter what I've done, the result is always the same. I'm about at wits end. I ordered new manifold gaskets today so I guess thats next unless someone has a better idea. I have a couple more manifold sets so I'll try to verify at least one of them doesn't have any leaks. 

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Larry...
 


Larry
46 CJ2A L134
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 9:25pm
couple things come quickly to mind...

14 inches is pretty low vacuum, and it should be steady... kinda odd you have such decent compression
timing will likely be closer to 8 BTDC using pump regular, given the ethanol content
you never mentioned wiper motor
it could be a fuel supply issue, as in sucking air through the lines and not delivering without the choke...

(I'm chasing a similar demon, though I only need a small amount of choke...and I have 19+ inches of steady vacuum) 

Oh, and welcome aboard LOLThumbs Up


Edited by mbullism - 17 Sep. 2018 at 9:30pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russnj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 9:28pm
Post some pictures of your setup, it might help figure it out.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 9:35pm
Lhead,

Some shots is the dark to try:
1. Is the vacuum hose to the windshield wiper cracked or not hooked up and air is getting in there?  Replace the hose with a good section and put a golf tee in the hose to plug it - see if that changes your air leak.
2. Is your PVC valve stuck - Unscrew it from the intake manifold and take it apart.  Clean the internal parts.
3. When installing intake and exhaust manifolds they are not supposed to be bolted to each other until after they are snugged against the gasket.  Then they tighten them to each other.  
4. Could be a bad plug, plug wire, bad bushing in the distributor. 
It will most probably be something simple.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote a4cj2a77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 9:43pm
i had issues with diffuser gasket on mine as well because of the copper sleeves.  sure sounds like a vac leak to me. I would think if you have a carb from scout pilot and you haven't changed settings on it, that would be the carb to stick with to figure out your issue. We use a smoke machine to trace leaks visually, but propane should work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 10:14pm
Thanks for the quick replies. I guess i left off a couple important points earlier. First, I don't have wipers (yet) and the vacuum port on the manifold between the carb and the firewall is blocked off as is the one at the base of the carb. I've removed, cleaned, even eliminated the PCV valve. No change. Distributor has been rebuilt and all components (points, condenser, rotor, cap, wires, and plugs) are new. Fuel pump is new and has about 4 psi pressure. 

One possible point might be that there are two glass strainers, one upside down on the fuel pump, the other at the carb. Maybe too much restriction? It fills the carb bowl up pretty fast so I doubt that is an issue. Plus it seems to run at higher RPM fine, just won't idle right.

The setup is basically stock except 12v upgrade. See photos. One note, I have been doing all the testing so far without the air cleaner installed. Could that make any difference?

I'll post a couple pictures as soon as I can get them to load on my computer from my phone.

I agree it is most likely something simple but I'm simpled out! Ha Ha! 

Thanks,

Larry...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 10:17pm
I've had similar symptoms with just a plugged fuel filter - needs the choke to suck enough fuel.  Does it run OK with power, is it just an idle issue?
If it won't run at power either you might check through the rest of the fuel system ahead of the carb - bad pump, plugged fuel filter plugged/ crimped fuel line etc. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 10:30pm
Here are a couple of pictures of the engine bay. The picture looks too big in the preview. If it comes out that way, I'll try to figure out how to shrink it.

Larry...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 10:41pm
If you need 2 fuel filters and the glass bowl screen to get clean gas, maybe its time to treat yourself to a new gas tank. They are not very expensive. All that filtering creates flow resistance that adds up snd could be contributing to your problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 10:46pm
Well, it is a new tank but it has been sitting around here for a few years so I figured it might have spiders and other creatures looking for a home that needed filtering. Point well taken though, I'll bypass all but one to see if that helps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2018 at 11:19pm
Looks too clean to me.   I think you need more dirt and grime to help plug up all the gasket leaks Embarrassed
Sorry, not being much help here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep. 2018 at 12:31am
Back on the fuel side, if you have the right T fitting you could T in a fuel pressure gauge right at the carb inlet and test your pump as well as all the fuel lines/filters etc.   It should get about 1-2psi I think.  My example of similar symptoms was actually a small inlet screen right at the inlet of the carb that was plugged, but if you have changed carbs it wont be this.

A story just for fun..... many years ago I worked for about a week with a group of about 4 other engineers trying to figure out why a bunch of 4wd loaders wouldn't start after they had been loaded on the shipping truck right out of the factory.   They would drive off to destination but couldn't be unloaded from the truck because they wouldn't start.   After about a week of trying everything, we were at our wits end when a marketing dude stopped over and asked if there was any fuel in the tank........   It turned out that the fuel level gauge calibration was wrong and showing 1/4 tank when they were empty.   The tank designers had also removed a tank baffle to save money.  Whenever they ran up the truck ramp they would suck air.........  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep. 2018 at 1:28am
At sea level, you should be able to acheive 21Hg of steady vacuum on an engine.  I would focus on this issue. Are you sure you don't have a sticky valve?

I think trying a different intake manifold is a good idea.  We had a member at the 3A Page with an internal crack on his intake manifold.  He was having similar issues.  He pulled the intake, then poured water through it. The leak was in the area where the intake manifold bolts to the exhaust manifold.  The leak never showed up with the starter fluid/propane tests.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep. 2018 at 1:51am
I eliminated two filters just leaving the screen/bowl on top of the fuel pump. Should have been a 5 minute job but just to prove the old adage, it doesn't matter how many fittings you have, you won't have the one you need. So a trip to the hardware store. No difference. But I'm not convinced now that it isn't a fuel delivery problem. I'm draining the tank (yes it had fuel in it) and I'm going to rig a temporary tank. I also have another fuel pump to try. If those fail, I'm off to intake manifold land. Problem is that I ordered the gaskets today and KaiserWillys takes a week to get here. Oh well, I guess I can get my windshield finished and in place and finish the wiring while I'm waiting. I don't want to put the fenders on until the engine is dialed in.

Larry...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep. 2018 at 1:52am
See, Scout Pilot. I am too old to learn to understand carbs. I want to drive my Jeep, not work on it. Same with my Piper Cub and the Stromberg Carb. I want to fly, not fiddle with something I don't understand. Of course there is more of a down side (pun intended) to a Stromberg.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep. 2018 at 1:55am
I forgot to ask a question: with the engine running, should the glass bowl on top of the fuel pump fill up? Mine doesn't. I can seen fuel running through it but it doesn't fill up. I did check fuel pressure with a "T" and I had about 4 psi.

Larry...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep. 2018 at 2:14am
Mine fills up and stays filled when running.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep. 2018 at 2:46am
It should be all but full if not full.  Are all your rubber to tubing connections barbed?... flares doubled and not too big?  
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