Leaf Spring Bump Stop Trick |
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sconsalv
Member Joined: 07 July 2017 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 99 |
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Posted: 22 Sep. 2017 at 2:12am |
Well I figured id give back to the community for all the contribution in building my 48. Well here it goes. So I was in the process of installing factory ride height leaf springs and notice that bumps would need to be installed but the original ones all but one of the rubber inserts was attached and these needed to be replaced. Upon removing them all but 2 of the bolts came out fine but the others broke off. after bummed but not surprised I questioned what the next step would be. Drilling them out would have not worked and would have been on an angle I went into thinking mode. There was no access especially in the front for a wrench and drilling an access hole in an original 48 frame was out of the question. Upon inspection I noted these were captive nuts and usually not weld real well , at least not on my YJ wrangler, and after starring at my tool box and looking through all the tools that paid the bills for over ten years , I starred at the good ole air hammer. AH Ha I'll air hammer the captive nuts out and put a nut and bolt and life will go on as normal. The next problem was that there was no access to even get your hand in the frame to hold a nut in place to even remotely thread a bolt but I proceeded to knock out each one of the captive nuts anyway. The next task was to figure a way to thread a nut and bolt to make this happen. Then the thought came to me . I used mechanics wire a locking nut with the star washer attached to the nut , feed it through the frame and thread the bolt. The key was to make sure the bolt thread easily as I would only have the tension from the mechanics wire to hold the nut in place. So I went to the local Ace and after 1/2 of making sure the bolts threaded on the nut easily it was off to the project. I compressed the so that it created a hex almost like a wrench and held the nut in place. Worked like a charm!!!
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1948 CJ2A , Picket Gray
1946 Cj2a , Project Granny LoW L134, NP435, TerraLow Gears, Floater 44 , Saginaw Steering Conversion, 113:1 Crawl |
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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I guess I was sort of lucky: when I took off the stops (three missing the rubber) only one of the 8 bolts broke. I just used one bolt when I replaced that one bumpstop.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Dude, you're my hero! I thought I was going to have to pull the axle and bust out the drill.
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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Unkamonkey
Member Joined: 23 Mar. 2016 Location: Greeley CO Status: Offline Points: 2093 |
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An old mechanics trick is use some grease inside the end of a box end wrench to hold the nut in place while you assemble things.
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uncamonkey
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Willy M
Member Joined: 18 July 2017 Location: Dyer, TN Status: Offline Points: 233 |
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I've done the grease trick, but make sure there's in there to get the box end wrench off of the nut after you get it started. Don't ask how I know about that.
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sconsalv
Member Joined: 07 July 2017 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 99 |
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The only room I had for the fronts was an access hole about 10-12 inch from the bump stops and couldn't get a wrench. The locking nut with a star worked like a charm. If I ever have to replace them , which may be never , I could just loosen them and buzz them off and start over again.
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1948 CJ2A , Picket Gray
1946 Cj2a , Project Granny LoW L134, NP435, TerraLow Gears, Floater 44 , Saginaw Steering Conversion, 113:1 Crawl |
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