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Leaking head stud |
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A 
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Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3190 |
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 Posted: 22 Apr. 2021 at 3:37pm |
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Bruce's advice on just about anything "jeep" you can take to the bank.
 The sealant will do no harm.
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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WeeWilly
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Posted: 22 Apr. 2021 at 4:11pm |
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Thanks Bruce, I just ordered a pack of the tablets for my motor that I just rebuilt. I don't have any leaks and sealed the studs threads with RTV sealant but you reminded me of reading one time that it is good insurance on these old engines to add the stop leak.
Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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jgodfrey
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Joined: 07 Oct. 2020 Location: Shakopee MN Status: Offline Points: 663 |
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Posted: 22 Apr. 2021 at 5:02pm |
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Ok. Brief update. I called the shop that rebuilt the engine and they use Permatex "The Right Stuff" on the studs. He said it is very common for these to leak and that you can repair them one at a time - as stated by a few of you here.
But I would have to trailer it 25 miles one way to do that. So..... Under the "Today I Learned" category - I will learn how to pull and reseal a head stud. Steps I will take - (let me know if I missed something)
What did I miss or get wrong? I am also not opposed to stop-leak. But since I am still in the "hey let me touch up that engine paint with a sponge brush" mode, and it is a learning opportunity, what the hell?
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athawk11
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Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Posted: 22 Apr. 2021 at 5:05pm |
 X2 on Bruce's recommendation. X2 on my confusion as to why it's being ignored. Let's take this back to the old adage..."Work smarter...not harder."  |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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cpt logger
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Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3040 |
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Posted: 22 Apr. 2021 at 5:53pm |
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OK, I rarely comment on the use of Stop Leak. However it has been asked twice now, so I will comment, at the risk of upsetting folks. I do not recommend the stuff even for emergency use. My thoughts are fix the problem, do not treat the symptoms. My experience with this stuff is less then stellar. I have replaced brand new radiators as well as heater cores because they plugged up from the use of Stop Leak. All three of the radiator shops that I used to use did not recommend the use of it. I had one customer use this stuff as a preventative measure, on three rigs. We had to either re-core or replace all the heater cores & radiators as the radiator shops tried & failed to rod them out. We replaced the brand new hoses as well. The customer said that he got Stop Leak to pay for some of the cost. I doubt that he did, but that is his story. Obviously my experience is unique & others have had success. I almost always agree with Bruce on his recommendations. He knows his stuff! This is one area that I disagree with him. I expect that we will agree to disagree. Again, I was asked twice for this opinion, so if it upsets you, so be it.
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Lee MN
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Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4949 |
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Posted: 22 Apr. 2021 at 5:56pm |
I agree, I’ve been in heavy equipment repair for over 35 years and have used Bars leak, the so-called horse tablets, black pepper, and a product called “K-Seal”, in systems of 20gallons or more coolant capacity to get a machine through a job, never once have I had a plugged heater core/oil cooler/air cooler. If that’s your issue your using these products more than coolant 😂. The K seal I mentioned is a fantastic product 👍🏿 If you do remove the stud, they are not meant to be screwed into the block tight, if you do that it cocks the stud slightly and when this happens to 15 studs that’s what makes the head very hard to remove. Lee😉 |
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LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History |
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cpt logger
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Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3040 |
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Posted: 22 Apr. 2021 at 6:09pm |
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Jason, yes that works with the exception of bottoming the studs. They should be set to the correct stud height, not just bottomed out. If one insists on bottoming them out , then where they are unable to get the right stud height with the original studs, longer studs should be used. Note the lack of threads sticking out above that nut. That is not good. To repeat myself, it is Industry Standard to have one to three threads sticking out above the nut at final torque. Engineers count on that fact when they design for clamping forces. That head nut is under more strain then it should be. It will probably be OK. Yet why risk it, you are resetting the stud anyway so just set the stud height correctly this time. IHTH, Cpt Logger.
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Bruce W
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Posted: 22 Apr. 2021 at 7:09pm |
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Cpt logger said: “I expect that we will agree to disagree.”
We can do that.
 BW |
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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ggordon49
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Posted: 22 Apr. 2021 at 7:17pm |
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That's what men do....
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- Don't Let The Fatherless Ones Grind You Down -
- I like them stock, survivor's with original paint are my favorites - |
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Michaeltru
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Posted: 22 Apr. 2021 at 8:28pm |
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Get a longer stud? Then you can bottom the stud and have enough threads above the nut when nut is tightened
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Mike in AZ
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cpt logger
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Posted: 22 Apr. 2021 at 10:08pm |
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Kinnett
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Posted: 23 Apr. 2021 at 1:38am |
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I had the exact same problem. One stud seeped around the threads just like yours. I used a small bottle of K-Seal. Problem solved and no adverse effects.
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Oldpappy
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Posted: 23 Apr. 2021 at 2:27am |
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Someone mentioned using black pepper.
I did that once back in the 80s when I was on a camping trip. My truck radiator sprung a leak caused by a tree branch I ran over on the rough road going to our camp. We were way out in the boonies and didn't have much to work with so I poured a can of black pepper from the chuck box into the radiator. It did stop the leak and we were able to finish out the week and pull the trailer home. About a week later the truck started running hot and I did indeed have to have the radiator and heater core rodded out and the original leak soldered afterwards. That was the only time I used black pepper for this sort of thing, it did work as an emergency fix, but I do not recommend it unless it is all you got. I have used other stop leak products without any problems though. |
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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jgodfrey
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Joined: 07 Oct. 2020 Location: Shakopee MN Status: Offline Points: 663 |
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Posted: 24 Apr. 2021 at 11:54pm |
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Old stud pulled. But it didn't come easy. As short as it was I couldn't double nut it. Shout out tow www.midwestmilitary.com for cutting a nut I'm half so I could give it a shot though. John also gave me 3 new studs, just in case I have more issues.
I had to buy a stud extractor and it worked great. I got the hole cleaned up and got the new stud in exactly where it needs to go with new thread sealer. I let it sit for a day before I put the nut on and torqued it. I ran out of time and couldn't get the coolant back in, so I'll start it later this week and see if it worked. And this might seem like a dumb question, but everything else I've done so far has required safety wire, lock washers, cotter pins, etc. But these head nuts require none of the above? What is the logic behind that? Is torqued twice enough?  Edited by jgodfrey - 25 Apr. 2021 at 12:30am |
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Joe Friday
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Posted: 25 Apr. 2021 at 1:10am |
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I love permatex products. But the 'right stuff' is the 'wrong stuff' for head studs. Permatex #2 works much better in my opinion.
As for sealants... I use them fairly regularly now, but I once used "Bars Leak". It looks like rabbit pellets in Maple syrup. NAPA sold be a jar and said just dump it in the radiator. It glued the thermostat stuck, and when the engine warmed up (OVERHEATED) for a few minutes, in unglued the thermostat till the next cold start. I think Lee saw that one coming. There is a one QUART jar for 50 gallon cooling systems, and a 4 ounce bottle for cars. I dumped in the quart.
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jgodfrey
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Posted: 25 Apr. 2021 at 1:30am |
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I ended up using Pemitex #2.
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dasvis
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Posted: 25 Apr. 2021 at 3:43am |
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QXL4F2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ordered this for my upcoming L134 rebuild...
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty" 1964 Thunderbird convertible ..... & one of them moves under it's own power!! |
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Bruce W
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Posted: 25 Apr. 2021 at 4:14am |
 $19.00! This stuff has been around probably close to 100 years, still works very well, and is recommended by most of the experienced engine builders here: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTW80016?partTypeName=Gasket+Sealer&impressionRank=21&keywordInput=permatex+%232 It's your money, spend it how you want. Let us know how that works out for you. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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smfulle wrote: