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Length and angle of shocks

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bobevans View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02 Mar. 2020 at 1:32am
So I got my rear axle back underneath my Reefer Madness project and now I need to fab up some rear shock mounts. I could use the stock upper mounts and flip my lower plates around. I'm using ubolts from an '80s Dodge truck that have the ubolts flipped. The axle was moved back about 2"             
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bobevans View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2020 at 1:41am
Or I could fab up some mounts and put the shocks behind the axle and get a better angle. Trouble with this is I'm either limited to a shock with a static length of about 16.5" or I have to cut the tub. I would like to make removable shock towers 'cause I'm going to have to slide the body off at least one more time. Since it's only me around when it's body moving time, I need to inch the tub on and off by running from one side around to the other!
I think Jpet ended up cutting his tub. How much shock is enough? Is 16+" enough to get good articulation rock crawling? The fronts are closer to 21" using later 1982 and up CJ7 shock towers, but my '79 CJ7 uses the rear shock I have used in the pics.
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'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Lee MN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2020 at 3:19am
IDK, but keep in mind BamBam is an MB, the tubs have cutouts for the shock, 2A’s slant foreword. Good luck 👍🏽

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2020 at 10:25am
Funny - i contemplating the same topic on my CJ5 build. 

Have you determined what your actual wheel travel will be? 

For argument sake, say it's 4 up and 8 down. You'll need to set up a shock with 12 inches of travel. I like to go with a longer shock, as using the shock as a limiting factor typically ends poorly. 

I'm not so concerned about the front. But like you, the rear is the issue. The tub is in the way to get the shock you need. The good news is that at an angle you can cheat travel a bit. 

I"m considering two options. A - cut the tub. This is my least favorite path as the tub is fiberglass. So it's not easily patched up. The benefit is I can get the shock straight up and down where its most efficient. 

Option B - I'm looking at lower shock mounts on the axle. If you look at a YJ, TJ or a JK you can see the lower mount is....well lower. It's around 3-4 inches lower than the actual axle center line. I think if you tucked the mount as near to the wheel as possible, it would be out of harms way. 

Anyway - that's a real long way of saying - determine what you need for a shock. You might find you don't need as big a shock as you think. But I would start there. 

I've already decided that shock mount are one of my final steps, once I have all the weight back on the chassis. 
46 CJ2a rockcrawler
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2020 at 2:26pm
My shocks are valved 255/70 which is about the equivalent of setting a rancho 9000 to 9 and I still think they could be stiffer. I didn't want to angle them because that makes them even less effective. (as nofender stated).

I have shortened my springs up so much now that I don't need 12" shocks anymore but I still need the towers if I want to mount them above the axle, which I do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2020 at 4:29am
Thanks for the replies. I was hoping Jeff would jump in too. I have about 6.5" from the top of the tube to the frame, so by the time I add a bumpstop I think I have about 4" of compression. I haven't really been able to droop it all the way with the pin pulled on my "goofy leaf" spring set up. To be honest, I probably won't use the max droop 'cause now I'm kinda worried about the long term stability and survivability of the extra 1/2 spring. Having said that, I still want to get some good droop and I'm using YJ springs - a decent length spring.
The lower shock mount as actually a plate that goes under the bottom leaf - it's as low as I can get it with out hanging down below the lowest point of the spring pack/keeper. This gives me almost 17" shock at rest. If I get a shock that is 13" long compressed (17" shock compressed 4" -almost all the way to the bumpstop)
The Monroe shock guide shows a model 1000 shock with 11.97" compressed length, but that means I would only end up with about 2" of droop -travel is 7.xx". To get 10" of travel, I need at least a16.5" COMPRESSED length. I think I will need to build something up into the tub at least 3" to the top of the shock - probably 5" into the tub for the bracket.
Or not??
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2020 at 5:18am
I too, like the spring to be the limiting part rather than the shock.
Then purchase a shock to fit as you have mentioned you need 12-inches to cover both compression and extension total.
I'd hate to have to cut my body, but it may be the option for you.

Good Droop helps keep the rubber on the tarmac. :)

Edited by Greaser007 - 03 Mar. 2020 at 5:21am
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