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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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Posted: 15 Jan. 2012 at 8:02pm |
We brought home #39615 from Ohio last Friday. The jeep appears to be fairly original, with some very rough body work that was done long ago. It has sat in a barn for the last 25+ years. I sprayed the salt scum off yesterday and took out the spark plugs. The motor turns freely - which hopefully is a bonus. First order of business will be to have a deputy sheriff come out and verify the S/N with the title so we can get it transferred to Indiana. I would appreciate any input and threads that you all can provide on getting started with a restoration. Also, I am having trouble posting pictures, but will do so if I can get some guidance on that as well. Thanks.
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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Some pictures as is.
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kilroy
Member Joined: 14 Dec. 2009 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 2096 |
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"BIG" battery cables! These old Girls like the juice to turn over. Can't remember what I got at NAPA, looks like they are something off a semi or a welder... Or is it converted to 12vlt.?
Oil change. Fire her up! She looks pretty darn good in the pics! Is that radiator oversized? How's the hat channels? Pics of pass. side? Fix what needs fixing and drive it for a season before you tear it down. MHO. At least you'll know what to look forward to after the rebuild.
Edited by kilroy - 16 Jan. 2012 at 6:34pm |
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"You know, I'm too old a bunny to get very excited about all this."
General H.E. von Salmuth Commander German Fourth Army France: 5 June 1944 1947 Willys CJ2A 1947 Bantam T3-C Trailer |
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damar2yxr
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 23 Aug. 2010 Location: Watertown, Wisc Status: Offline Points: 2632 |
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Guidance or advice will probably be tailored to what it is you actually want to accomplish. I know what I would do -----but that may not jive with your desire for the final result. What are you prepared to do and how much do you want to spend? You can do a complete frame off and not drive it for years or you can get it running--drive it---and then fix it up slowly part by part or system by system. Once you tear into something you will look at what it is attached to and realize that since it is apart you might as well get at that as well. As Forrest Gump might say...Willys Jeeps are like a box of chocolates---you never know what yer gonna get." Anything you want to know about a CJ2-A is found on these pages. Ask your specific question and hold on tight. The answers will flow. Good luck!!!!!
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eat,sleep,jeep
Proud father of a Marine, Army Dentist, Navy Pilot and a Princess. LIFE IS GOOD! 43MB,47CJ2-A,48CJ2-A X2,70Jeepster Commando 1/2 cab,84CJ-7, |
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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It's still 6V. Radiator looks standard size to me. Hat channels were very poorly replaced years ago. Will post a pic of passenger side. Pretty much the same as drivers side.
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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I like the box of chocolates analogy... Not looking for a quick fix, just a project with the intended goal of a decent restoration. |
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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I changed out spark plugs, points, condensor and had spark. I rigged up a temporary fuel container. Cranked it over with starter and by hand crank. It offered to start a couple of times, but the battery and I wore out... Took plugs out and checked compression. I did not have much compression on any cylinders, so I added some Mystery oil and let it soak in each cylinder for a few minutes. Compression readings after that: #1 30 psi
#2 60 psi
#3 20 psi
#4 10 psi
Rings? Valves? Both? Motor has set for 35+ years best I can figure. It is coming out anyway, but wanted to get some ideas.
Thanks
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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Probably both.. check your valve clearances, I have a feeling a few valves, especially number four, will have large clearance indicating they are not fully seated.....When these motors sit around that long. the valve stems get rusty and they tend to stick in the guides....What did the plugs that you originally took out look like? Your cylinders probably look similar to the plugs...I have a V6 here that has several plugs that looked new, but two cylinders the plugs look like someone buried them in the back yard for decades...those two cylinders were exposed to the moist air during storage and rusted badly, seizing up the motor. Yours obviously wasn't quite that bad but if the old plugs were rusty it is time to dismantle and rebuild.
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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Plugs were not too bad. Hopefully the cylinders look the same. We will see....
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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Making some progress on removing bolts, etc. Having a tough time with steering wheel removal. Any words of wisdom on this? That is all that is holding me up from removing the tub. Also, bought a parts Jeep yesterday close to the house. Frame tag shows 116031 - so i guess it is a 47. Frame on parts rig looks great. Front end has not been beat up. I planned to use it as a jig for the tub rebuild, but it may be the new frame... Will have to compare both and go from there.
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ralf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 06 May 2008 Location: Fayetteville WV Status: Offline Points: 4861 |
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Try some of this on the hood with fine steel wool. You will be surprised with the results.
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/216032/post/1712505/ http://lowbus.com/BB/index.php?topic=335.90 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=447159 Edited by ralf - 01 Feb. 2012 at 8:05pm |
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1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor 1941 J-3 Cub 1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor 1942 Clarktor WW2 tug |
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damar2yxr
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 23 Aug. 2010 Location: Watertown, Wisc Status: Offline Points: 2632 |
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Steering wheel removal help.......check the home page here and you will find the link. There is also plenty of advice here...do a search. Take your time with this---don't rush and screw it up. Look at all the cool "puller" tools that were created...copy one of them. They REALLY DO work.
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eat,sleep,jeep
Proud father of a Marine, Army Dentist, Navy Pilot and a Princess. LIFE IS GOOD! 43MB,47CJ2-A,48CJ2-A X2,70Jeepster Commando 1/2 cab,84CJ-7, |
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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My gracious machinist neighbor is making me a puller! Will cost me some Crown Royal and deer sausage I am sure. Hope to get a hold of it this weekend and see what i can do. |
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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I made some progress today. Removed oil filter assembly, exhaust manifold, radiator, and head. Cylinders were not scored at all. You can see an 'S' on the pistons from the pics. What does this mean? Looks like area around valve area on #3 is pitted some. Frame horns have the standard patch job that will need to be dealt with. Have 2 exhaust manifold bolts twisted off... Motor # is CJ2A 40847 best I could read.
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bkreutz
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 17 Oct. 2006 Location: Fruitland Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7037 |
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I'm going to guess Standard, measuring the bore would validate this idea.
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RA472A
Member Joined: 15 Nov. 2005 Status: Offline Points: 367 |
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If you can get ahold of a bearing seperator and clamp it below the steering wheel, you have something very solid for the puller arms to connect to ( I got a cheap one at Harbor Freight). Also, be sure to use a stack of washers where the "point" of the puller will rest on the steering wheel nut(to keep from crushing it) which you will loosen a little bit, but leave it on. Pull a bit, then loosen the nut a little more. So on and so on until it's free. You'll also need alot of Deep Creep penetrating oil. It's my favorite. Hope this helps.
Edited by RA472A - 11 Feb. 2012 at 3:12pm |
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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Ran a micrometer into the cylinders today. We made numerous measurements on all 4 cylinders and they ranged from 3.127" to 3.132". My service manual says that factory bore was 3.125-3.127". As far as I am concerned, things look pretty good at this point wrt motor tolerances. Finally got the steering wheel pulled off and removed the tub. Took off the covers on both differentials and the ring gears show very little wear. Lots of gunk in the differentials. Starting to clean them out. Will post pics tomorrow. Planning to pull tranny to inspect and pull motor to replace rings and valves at a minimum. Comments?
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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Some pictures from yesterday's work. Note prior fabrication work on tub. It was very roughly done. Did not mess up steering wheel or steering column removing wheel - wow! Frame seems to be sound. Other than being somewhat 'gunky', the differentials appear to be in good order.
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