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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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Not much to report of late. I purchased a carb rebuild kit from The Carburetor Shop in Eldon, MO. Bought some carb cleaner and soaked the carb for a day to remove the crud. Finished the rebuild last night. Motor is now out of jeep and on an engine stand. Gears in tranny and transfer case look good. I may need to replace the bearing in the front of the transmission. Hope to find out more this weekend.
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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Not a great deal to report. I have cleaned the crud off the transmission and transfer case. Bought the light overhaul kit for the transmission. New seals installed (pain to get old ones out - especially those little ones in the transfer case). I have separated the transmission from the transfer case and am planning to follow the Novak T90 transmission rebuild procedure that I found on this site. Never have torn in to a transmission before. We'll see. Happy Easter to all.
Tom
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Harveynailbanger
Member Joined: 23 July 2010 Location: Long Beach,MS Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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is novaks the same as Rick Stivers? he has a rebuild guide thats very easy to understand as well. if when you are doing the tranny you need to replace cluster gear shaft, do not throw the old one away, grind it down just a bit around the entire surface, taking off a couple of thousandsth, smooth it out with some emory cloth then cut it to the same length as the cluster gear (one end is bigger than the other, cut the big end off) when you assemble use the cut down shaft to install bearings and then install cluster gear and use new shaft to push out the old shaft keeping bearings in place. you will understand when you get started. also be sure to use a petroleum based grease to hold needle bearings in place, Vaseline works well.
have fun, Rick
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if the grass is greener on the other side, try waterin your grass.
"I hope I'm half the person that my dogs think I am" I only do what the voices in my toolbox tell me to. 46 CJ2A 71804 |
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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Thanks Rick. I will check out Rick Stivers intro as well. I also have an old service manual that has decent instructions. Got it all taken apart last night. Gears are in good shape. Will give everything a solvent bath and start back with it. Thanks again for the advice.
Tom
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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Got the transmission pretty much finished up this weekend. New seals, gaskets, roller bearings, needle bearings, spacers and lots of vaseline. Truly a learning experience for a rookie like me. I found the Novak site to be extremely helpful. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/t90_rebuild.htm
I have a PTO that I am going to clean up, put a new seal in it and install it in this rig.
Hope to post pics this week.
Tom
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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Pics from the transmission rebuild. I take bad pictures.... Tom
I installed the front yoke and felt oil seal on the front end of the transfer case last night. Put shifter back on and it shifts well. Started on the back end of the transfer case. Cleaned up emergency brake assembly and installed it. A couple of observations:
1. It is a fairly straight forward rebuild.
2. Do not drink three beers and attempt to install the needle bearings in the counter shaft. You will probably struggle with it as I did.
Question on the E brake: One shoe shows more wear than the other. Is this due to a bad adjustment in the past? Would the shoe that was on bottom wear quicker? I would think that if these were adjusted right, they would last a long time, but I guess 66 years on brake shoes is a good run.
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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My neighbor and I repaired the transmission cross member that had seen possibly a tree stump that it could not clear.... Anyway a couple of before and after pics.
Before Skid plate must have hit something hard enough to rip 2 of the bolts out of the x member. A rough repair done in the past was not good enough. Second photo shows repairs that were made - welding plates to top of busted out areas and welding in holes on bottom side. Redrilled the holes and ground them clean.
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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We took our other 46 out for a spin this evening to check out the garden progress. My oldest daughter
took this picture of my wife and I. Tomato plants are starting to take off... |
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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As advised by members here on the site, I am going to remove axles and steering assembly from frame, then sandblast and repair and paint the frame A few small pictures of the frame that is currently coated with some sort of coal tar epoxy I guess.
I am also working on the PTO gearbox cleaning it up and putting in new seals.
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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I have been tearing down the motor over the past few nights. I am learning quite a bit. I need to get it torn down so I can hot tank the block and start back together with it. Tell me about main and rod bearings. Should I replace them since I am this far down into it? Crank looks pretty good. Piston #3 rings are stuck as shown above.
Rear main bearing cap. It appears to me that the rear main seal was put in backwards?? The lip faces inward on both the cap and block.
See what I mean?
Output flange on the PTO shifter. Does the flange for the gearbox input have the same dimensions? My neighbor and I need to build one.
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willys522000
Member Joined: 19 June 2012 Location: Huntingdon Pa. Status: Offline Points: 204 |
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IMHO, I would replace the bearings, You have put and will put a lot more time and work into the project to take a chance.
Brett.
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Harveynailbanger
Member Joined: 23 July 2010 Location: Long Beach,MS Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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there has been a great deal of discussion recently on the rear main seals (do a quick search) i would probably advise you to go back with a rope seal as that seems to be the "safest" as of late from what i can tell there have been issues with some of the newer ones.
at least do a good bit of reading on it and make an informed decision. at min i would pastiguage bearing surfaces and determine what you have. are journals all in good shape? cyls tend to wear in a cone shape and honing doesnt do much for that. rick
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if the grass is greener on the other side, try waterin your grass.
"I hope I'm half the person that my dogs think I am" I only do what the voices in my toolbox tell me to. 46 CJ2A 71804 |
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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I have read some of the rear main seal information out there. I am planning to go back with the rope packing. Journals are in good shape visually - no scarring or anything like that. May just replace bearings while I am this far down. 107 degrees here today in SW Indiana. What a treat... Tom |
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sean
Moderator Group Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: North Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7388 |
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Tom:
Yep, it's backwards. Any idea how many miles were on it that way? Since you're going to rope, I'd like to have that seal, will send a PM.
The bearing shell in your photo is VERY suspect! The center annular groove doesn't run all the way round. It does not look worn down there, and may be intentional, but bearings normally have the groove all the way through. Pop it out, see it there's a manufacturers ID on the outside of the shell. What do the other shells look like? Same, or grooved all the way? Either way, since you've got it torn down this far, as long as the crank is still w/in spec, I would replace the bearings. Sean
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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The motor is about torn down. As you can see, all of the main bearings have a taper in the oil groove. The back of the bearing is marked standard, perhaps you all can figure out the manufacturer. I now have the valves out and will get the cam out and tappets soon so it can make a trip to the machine shop.
I will replace the main and rod bearings. Sean, the rear main seals will be mailed out to you next week. Tom
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sean
Moderator Group Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: North Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7388 |
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Tom:
So it's intentional, very unusual. Are the half-shells identical, or mirror-image pairs?
That script "FM" is old time Federal Mogul.
If you're not going to keep/save the old bearings, could you toss the rear main pair in too? I know it will mean higher shipping cost, but I'll cover it. Sean |
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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Sean, I will send out the rear main bearings as well. I am still trying to figure out whether the front and rear PTO flange are the same. My good neighbor has agreed to make me one, and we can copy the front flange if the rear should match it. If anyone knows, please advise. Tom
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TWN
Member Joined: 15 Feb. 2011 Location: SW Indiana Status: Offline Points: 186 |
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We ran a micrometer over the main journals and crank pin journals. They were all undersized to varying degrees. So, we popped the rear main bearing out of the cap and look what we found! A very very thin brass shim underneath to take care of the crank wear. Can you grind the main journals and rod journals down to .030? Thanks. Tom
Homemade brass shim above. I like the ingenuity...
As it sat in the cap.
I am looking for a good machine shop in Evansville, IN to help me with hot tanking the block, valve guide installation, head planing, crankshaft grinding, and valve seat grinding. Sean, the rear mains and seals should go out tomorrow.
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