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sean View Drop Down
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Joined: 20 July 2005
Location: North Idaho
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Points: 7388 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2012 at 4:28pm
Tom:
Quote ... look what we found! A very very thin brass shim underneath to take care of the crank wear ...
An old-school "field" fix!  Haven't seen one in many years LOL

Quote ... Can you grind the main journals and rod journals down to .030? ...
Sure, but you shouldn't go any further than needed, the shop will know how far once they've accurately mic'd the journals.
 
Quote .... Sean, the rear mains and seals should go out tomorrow.
Looking forward to them, thank you!

Sean
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Points: 7388 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2012 at 9:37pm
Tom:

Got your seals & bearings today, thank you!

One of the bearing shells is the Federal Mogul in your photo, but the other is "CGB" brand!

CGB = Cleveland Graphite Bronze, which in 1952 became Clevite (CLEVland graphITE), so it's been there for a while.  Looks like the PO was making piecemeal repairs! LOL

Seals are the original (good) Victor type, looks like lotsa miles on them, but still functioning.

Will send a PM.

Sean
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TWN View Drop Down
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Joined: 15 Feb. 2011
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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2012 at 3:07am
Sean, I will check the other bearing sets for match/mismatch and report back... Block, crank, and cam go to machine shop next week for inspection and repair.
Tom
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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 July 2012 at 2:45am
I took the distributor apart tonight and found that the magnets did not 'swing' freely at all. So, I removed them, cleaned and lightly lubricated, and they are freed up now. The return springs are badly worn. They will need to be replaced before reassembly. Tom
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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug. 2012 at 10:29pm
I spoke with the machine shop today. They found a small crack in the block near the distributor area, but they said that it is repairable. Crank dressed up nicely - I will be putting .030 over rod bearings in and .020 main bearings in. Cylinders will be bored out to .020 over. So, the engine overhaul parts have been ordered and are on the way. Tom
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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2013 at 9:41pm
I got the head and block back from the machine shope in mid December. I will most likely start going back together with the motor soon. I had a link on my computer for a great step by step rebuild procedure for the L 134 motor. However, I lost it on a computer crash. Can any body help me out with a good link that I can use?
Thanks
Tom
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damar2yxr View Drop Down
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Points: 2632 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damar2yxr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2013 at 2:31am
You will want to go to the G503 website and go to the technical data forum and read John Barton's article on rebuilding the L-134.Big smile



Edited by damar2yxr - 04 Jan. 2013 at 2:35am
eat,sleep,jeep

Proud father of a Marine, Army Dentist, Navy Pilot and a Princess. LIFE IS GOOD!
43MB,47CJ2-A,48CJ2-A X2,70Jeepster Commando 1/2 cab,84CJ-7,
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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2013 at 9:25pm
Thanks - that is just what I needed!
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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2013 at 1:31am
 
I made a little progress over the weekend. Cylinders were bored .020. New valve guides. New exhaust valve seats (hardened). One minor crack in the block was repaired. Crank was ground .030 on mains and .020 on rods. Cam was fine.  Head was cleaned up and was in good shape. I primed the block and installed new valves and new springs. I am using the same tappets.  John Barton's L134 rebuild guide is a great help. Tom
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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec. 2013 at 1:14am
It is hard to believe that it has been nearly a year since I posted on this project. Motor is rebuilt and ready to go. I found a good original body to work with last winter, along with a good frame, and two other jeeps in the deal. I had the frame sand blasted. I primed it and painted it with Chassis Coat in a spray can. Front and rear ends plus new shocks went back under it a couple of weeks ago and transmission went back in it last week. I found that the motor mounts were in poor shape, so I will replace them with a couple of spares that I have. I am going to take Lowenuf's advice and get the mechanical work done before doing much body work. I know a little about mechanical work. I don't know anything about body work, but will tackle it somehow. Here are some pics of where I am at.
Tom
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Points: 372 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kansascat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2013 at 6:31am
Looooookin good.
So many projects and so little time.
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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2014 at 1:17am

Motor is now bolted up to the bell housing. I have put back on the starter, oil filter canister, dip stick tube, and manifold. My old manifold was slightly warped at the back and I cracked the 'ear' where the rear bolt goes though Angry. I knew better than to get rough with it. I have a spare and will get it put on this weekend.





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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr. 2015 at 12:13am
I finally got around to taking my donor body I bought a couple of years ago down to get it dipped. The pics are not the best, but the body is decent with the standard rust we all seem to see in the usual places. They would not dip the seat frames or the windshield frame, as they could not guarantee that all  of the stripping chemical would drain back out of the tubes. Other than that, the rest is there awaiting its' turn in the bath. I have decided to have a local hot rod restoration shop do the body work. They did a good job on my CJ5, so they are going to get this job also.
 
 
 
 
 
I suspect that the ACM is way off for a 46, but I can live with that. Note the handy radio cut out in the dash.... And the nice big brake light holes in the back.... That is the original hood upside down in the tub. I will go back with Pasture green.
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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan. 2018 at 4:57pm
It has been a while, but I finally got back to work on the project. Motor starts and runs well. Brake system is done. Took the body to my local rod shop this week after having it dipped. He has been busy. Floor panels cut out and replaced. Now he is beginning to patch the holes in the firewall that should not be there.




Making headway. Again.
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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan. 2018 at 6:29pm
An update on body work - Floor supports came in from Classic Enterprises and were installed. Holes in firewall, wheel wells, and various other places that did not belong have been closed up. Tail light panels have been replaced.




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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb. 2018 at 4:01pm
Progress report - passenger side cowl and side step piece came in from Classic Enterprises. It seems to be a good fit and will be welded in today. This piece did not come with nut cages in place, so they will have to be put in. Hood and fenders have been primed and are ready for paint.

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Joined: 03 July 2017
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Points: 395 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srlbotanical Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2018 at 3:47pm
Looks great!

What color are you going to paint it?
Steve
1948 CJ2A - The Good Dog
1997 TJ - The Trail Rig
2001 XJ - The kids ride
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Points: 186 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TWN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2018 at 4:18pm
It will be pasture green with the autumn yellow wheels.
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