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Lock Right in front

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smfulle View Drop Down
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    Posted: 24 Feb. 2015 at 5:40pm
Last year I put a Lock Right locker in my rear axle. It made a big difference on what I could do on the rocks, but I still spun out a little when one front tire was in some sand so I decided to add a Lock Right to the front.  It's a pretty easy installation. I thought I would put some pictures  up since the pictures in the Lock Right instructions are just a black blob.

Here's the  box with the part number required for a CJ2A with the original Dana 25 front axle.

The kit is pretty simple. Just these few pieces.

First thing you do is drain the lube out of the diff. and pop the cover off. 
Then pull the tires, hubs, spindles and backing plates off.  No pictures for that process.  You've probably all done that.

Pull the axles out just enough so that they disengage from the differential.

Here's what it looks like before you unbolt anything. I took t his pic to make sure I kept track of the bearing cap orientation. When you  pull them off, make sure you keep track of what one goes on which side and which way is up.

Unbolt the bearing caps. The book says you might need a case spreader or a pry bar to get the diff out, but once I had the caps off, mine rolled right out. Here's a blurry pictures of the caps. I have them lined up just like they came off so I can put them back on the same way.

Mark the ring gear somehow so that you can put it back on the  same place it came off.  I used a bit of paint.

Bend back the tabs and unbolt the ring gear. (You don't have take the ring gear off of some applications of the Lock Right, and on those applications you don't even need to take the diff out of the axle, but you do for a 2A.) The ring gear needed just a little bit of hammer persuasion to get it off of the carrier.

Use a punch to knock the pin that holds the shaft in.

Slide the shaft out.

Rotate the  spiders around so that they can come out the hole.

Once you get the side gears out, be sure and get the thrust washers off of them. They need to be reused with the Lock Right.  They can almost seem invisible on the gear so check closely.

Put some grease on everything so that it all sticks together a bit. This aids in the assembly. This is a picture of one side all grease up and ready to go in . There are 5 pieces  here. The instruction call them the "driver"that splines with the axle, the "coupler", that  locks with the driver, The "spacer" that slides in the doughnut hole between the two and two "sheer pins" that are pressed into the hole in the coupler that has the largest window when  you look at it from the side. 

  They won't fit in the carrier assembled like this. You have to put them in one at a time. The drivers on both sides first (with the side gear thrust washers on them). Then the couplers with the spacers  and two sheer pins each in them. 

Once you have all the pieces in, you use something pointy to push the sheer pins from the side with the big window into the other side to lock the two sides together. The pins have to go all the way to the bottom of the small window so the springs can go in the big window.  You put the small spring inside the big spring and then squeeze them into the big window. Make sure they are seated in there so they won't pop out.  Look in the green circle in this pic. That's the "big window" with the springs installed. You can see the sheer pin is all the way to end of the small window.

Next, you turn the carrier around until the holes line up for the shaft. Slide it back in and knock the locking pin back in.

Re-install the ring gear back the way in came off. Don't forget to bend the locking tabs on the bolts after you torque them.  Put the assembly back in the axle the way it came out. Bolt on the bearing caps. Push the axles in. Re-install backing plates, spindles drums and hubs. 

Don't forget to bleed t he brakes since you had to break the line to get the backing plates off. 

Put the tires back on, re-install diff cover. Fill with gear oil. 

Take it down of the jacks, and go climb something.


I did everything pictured last night in about an hour and a half.  It shouldn't have taken that long, but I had a little trouble with a couple of the sheer pins being too tight and I had to doctor them a little. This made so I had to leave off at putting the assembly together and haven't put it in the axle yet. 


i had to get SOME sleep for my real job. I think I could have had it all done and off the jacks last night in the hour and a half if I had not run into the sheer pin problem.

I'm excited to test this new locker out on a trip we  have planned the first week of April.





Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carsandguns Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb. 2015 at 9:41pm
Thanks for the great step by step instructions.   This is on my "wants" list for my 2A.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 12:36am
Let us know when you go "climb something", I certainly want to see that. Good visual of the installation process, they are pretty easy to put together; and work amazing!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 12:49am
i have been interested in a front locker myself, but have heard mixed reviews if running manual steering.  The force of the engaged locker can pull the wheel to the straight position through a white knuckle grip, was the complaint.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 12:52am
Yep vehicles are a whole nother animal with lockers. They will can either get you in a whole lots of trouble or help out a ton. They are confidence makers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drew46cj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 2:05am
Where you get your lockers from . Ive seen them on acouple web sites price varies , some sites dont sell them for d25 and d41 but did sell them for d30 and 44 which were almost half the cost than d25 d41, they are definitely on my wish list
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 2:22am
The 10 spline D44 kit will fit a D41 axle, the side gears are the same for each. I wish I had known this tidbit of information when I bought mine, I paid $$$ for the kit specifically for the D41. D44 kits are much less money.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 3:02am
I got mine from Summit Racing. Around $400 with free shipping.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwt-2415-lr
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomahawk715 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 3:31am
I had one of these lunch box lockers in a built cj7 I had. Made a huge difference. However They don't like pavement at mild speeds and hate traffic circles. I only had it in the back.
If a man says something in the garage - and his wife can't hear him - is he still wrong???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 5:29am
Originally posted by tomahawk715 tomahawk715 wrote:

I had one of these lunch box lockers in a built cj7 I had. Made a huge difference. However They don't like pavement at mild speeds and hate traffic circles. I only had it in the back.


I haven't had any issues with my rear Lock Right on pavement, although I havent seen many traffic circles. I have locking hubs on the front so that should take the steering issue off the table in two wheel drive. Of course the Lock Right documentation raves on how they eliminate the handling issues with the auto ratcheting action. We have a trip planned in April where I can test it out on the rocks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 1:45pm
I had them installed front and rear in a Cherokee. I never had a problem with them on pavement. When the outer wheel, in a turn, has to go faster then the inside, it will drive forward of the cross shaft and causes it to disengage from the locker, allowing the axle to differentiate between the two shafts. When the two shaft match the same speed again at the end of a turn, they lock back up. Sometimes at that point you will get a bump but it was never bad. You got to watch it on ice or snow because there will be no traction to let the outer wheel drive ahead.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kansascat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 4:28pm
Not to hijack this thread but since its on the same subject somewhat...whats everyones opinion on if just installing one unit in your jeep, which end would you do...or at least do first? In my mind there are pluses to both. Rear end would give added traction while in 2wd which might save having to stop and lock in hubs once in a while. It also would benefit going up steep grades as weight transfers to rear then, but front end is usually engaged when going into something serious which is when added traction would always be wanted, and front end would help it pop up onto rocks ridges and out of holes if both wheels are pulling, and most the weight is on front when on the level so would benefit in mud and snow most id think. Whats your observations those of ya who have one unit only?
So many projects and so little time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 4:57pm
Originally posted by kansascat kansascat wrote:

Whats your observations those of ya who have one unit only?

I went with the rear first, for the reasons you stated. Also, I was a little leery of a front locker because my cousin has his Wrangler and Samurai front diffs welded up, and they could hardly steer with the front hubs locked in on the red rock. My experience with the Lock Right in the rear driving on pavement has given me confidence to put one in the front and give it a go.

This incident here was one of the big drivers for me wanting a front locker. My two back tires were in the sand along with my right front. The left front was on a nice hard rock, but no torque went there.  My cousin giving me crap about having to pull me out also contributed. 



You can see at about the 23 second mark on this video, my one front tire spins. I think with a front locker I wouldn't even  have notices this little step.



As you can see in this one, if  you can get both front wheels on a hard surface, you can go up it even if the back wheels are on something loose.


Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeeper50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 8:57pm
I've had a locker in my model 25 for the last 9 yrs. I have the stock steering and it does affect your turning radius but I just deal with it. 
 During installation there is a clearance minimum and max between the halves. If you hold to the narrower end of the range the dogs on the halves of the unit will engage better, the only way to change the clearance is to replace the side gear washers with new ones. 

 I also corrected the steering issue with my previous jeeps D18 by removing the shift interloc pill out of the front shifter housing, then on a tight trail I could easily shift into 2WD LOW and make the turn and with a slap of the hand put it back into 4WD LOW to continue my trail ride, never had any issues with my D18 with the interloc pill removed.  I had the Hurricane engine in the 'ol 56 CJ5.




Edited by jeeper50 - 25 Feb. 2015 at 9:03pm

Belleview ol skool winch soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomahawk715 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2015 at 12:59am
We'll I never had a problem with it per say. But it "ratcheted" like a sob on the traffic circle down by the dunes at silver lake. Or on a sharp pavement turn for that matter. It was a bit disconcerting the first time it did it.
If a man says something in the garage - and his wife can't hear him - is he still wrong???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar. 2015 at 4:33pm
i mentioned this in another thread, but I thought I would put it here for future reference.

After installation my front locker has not quite been performing as advertised. When in 4 wheel drive the locker seems to ratchet at randoms times causing the steering to pull to one side. Upon further investigation I found a step in the instructions that I missed.  In a paragraph toward the end that starts out "As an additional check..."  It says that the gap between the two sides of the unit should be between .145 and .170 inch, with optimal being .152 inch.  (see picture below for what you should measure.) If it is not, the thing won't work right. There is too much slack and the pin can't press the spacers far enough to keep the gears on both sides locked and  thus you have random ratcheting and dangerous steering pulls. This is not the pull where everything wants to go straight that you get with a Lincoln locker, but a random pull to either side. 

i pulled my cover off and measured. It measured out to about .180, so I ordered some new side gear thrust washers from Kaiser Willys. Once installed it still measured .173. .003 outside the documented tolerances.  I tired putting two washers on one side. This was too much and I couldn't get the pin in. Since we had a trip planned, I decided to put it together and see if that .003 really made a difference. It did, I still have the random pulling. 

So now I am looking for some extra thick side gear washers. If anyone has any clues as to where to find some I would appreciate the help.  if I can't get this sorted out, I am going back to the spider gears and open diff in the front.


Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar. 2015 at 4:42pm
Just an opinion that you didn't ask for but I think you are gonna have a hard time getting out of the random pull. I feel like that's just one of those 'that's the way it is' situations of a locker in the steering axle of a jeep.

I hope you get it worked out and prove me wrong.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar. 2015 at 5:15pm
Chad,
I always like to hear your opinions. I also hope that I can prove you wrong.

But if I cant, I'll just have to put it down as a.$400 lesson learned. I've spent way more "blood and treasure" in the past to learn less.

I'll keep plugging away at it and post what I find here.
Stan
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