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Lock-Rite in the snow??

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duffer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote duffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov. 2017 at 7:27pm
My 3B has a Powr-Lok in the rear and it is manageable on ice/packed snow but you really need to remain cognizant that it's back there.  If you hit the throttle a bit to much on a corner, you can swap ends quickly.  No way do I want either a limited slip or locker in the front axle under those conditions.  And I had a Detroit Locker in the rear of that Willys for a while and just couldn't handle the road manners on dry pavement let alone snow.

While Ken's extra set of axles solution would work-sort of anyway-that is a lot of trouble.  Best solution, IMO, ditch the D25 for a bolt-in D30 and buy something like an ARB or Eaton e-locker that you can have in either mode with the flip of a switch.  I put an ARB in the new front axle for my B but still using the Powr-Lok in the rear.
1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2017 at 2:42am
Originally posted by David Fillman David Fillman wrote:

I have Lock Rites front and rear in my 1945 Willys. They provide excellent off road traction but make for very wide turns in 4WD. I removed the interlock in my Browne Lipe model 18 transfer case so I can select 2WD low range to make sharp turns easier off road. Take it easy in 2WD low or you will snap an axle. No big deal in the Willys with rear floating hubs, but big deal in a CJ2A.

On road I have to release one of the front hubs or steering will be very jerky on hard top in 2WD high range. The rear diff will clank and rattle going around a turn. You can feel it grabbing and releasing. Apply throttle in a turn on hard top and be ready for instant power oversteer due to the rear locker engaging.

The MB with junk NDTs will go through up to 24" of snow depending on how hard packed it is. I compete in local Jeep events and was having a hard time going through an obstacle course some years ago. I had made it 3/4s of the way through beyond where many drivers had given up when I realized I had forgotten to lock the front hubs. That gives you some idea of how well the rear Lock Rite was working. 


Sweet!

I towed my dad's 74 IH pickup through three feet of snow to get it into it's final resting place next to the house. I just used L/L and chains on the front with open diffs.


Originally posted by duffer duffer wrote:

My 3B has a Powr-Lok in the rear and it is manageable on ice/packed snow but you really need to remain cognizant that it's back there.  If you hit the throttle a bit to much on a corner, you can swap ends quickly.  No way do I want either a limited slip or locker in the front axle under those conditions.  And I had a Detroit Locker in the rear of that Willys for a while and just couldn't handle the road manners on dry pavement let alone snow.

While Ken's extra set of axles solution would work-sort of anyway-that is a lot of trouble.  Best solution, IMO, ditch the D25 for a bolt-in D30 and buy something like an ARB or Eaton e-locker that you can have in either mode with the flip of a switch.  I put an ARB in the new front axle for my B but still using the Powr-Lok in the rear.


Definitely food for thought.
Of course, just as I pick up a two-piece axle D44, some local puts up an ad on CL for a pair of axles: A D30 front with Lincoln locker and a one-piece axle offset D44 with an open diff. Both have brand new 5.38s installed.  $1000 takes the pair.
Ermm

Too rich for my blood... That's okay, though. Included in the pile of parts I picked up from Scott (Work In Progress) was a set of front Rzeppa axle shafts. They need to be cleaned up, but they are in beautiful shape aside from a bit of surface rust.




Edited by LesBerg - 16 Nov. 2017 at 2:53am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stude-a-willys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2017 at 7:48pm
I've had a lock-rite in the back of a 4runner and have one in the back of the CJ2a. I live in Colorado. We get some snow.

Summary: 
It isn't too bad. You just need to expect it to break loose the entire rear end more easily than with an open differential. The times it is "sketchy" is uphill, under power, on a curve, on ice. 
The rest of the time it is much like an open differential except you go farther before you get stuck.

It doesn't take long to learn to "steer with the gas pedal" DukeBoy style when leaving stop signs and on the trail. Not recommended for street use, tends to freak out the passenger/neighbors. It sure is fun when the risk is low.

In most snow conditions, you are probably already in 4x4. With the front end pulling , the back is less likely to try to pass the front. In deep snow things are pretty much the same as open diffs except you get 3x farther before you get stuck. I don't notice it taking more room turn in deep snow or even on ice. Mine ratchets the outside wheel easily in a coast condition even on ice. 

I know it is easier to walk the JK out of ruts when the rear axle is unlocked (if it will move with the rear axle unlocked), so I suppose it is a little harder to get out of the ruts/ditch with the lockright pushing both wheels "full ahead." but at least you are moving where you would be DIGGING out of the ditch with the 1 wheel peal.

Oilleaker's note to make sure the side gear shims return the correct spacing between the halves of the locker is important. 

A selectable locker is the way to go. Open like a normal rig, locked when you need it.


Lock-rite rear Powr-lock front. Start about 2:15 to see my Dad and I not get stuck  about where I got stuck without the LSD front. 





Edited by stude-a-willys - 16 Nov. 2017 at 9:03pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stude-a-willys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2017 at 8:38pm
Love the Videos Stan. fun and educational!

Go slow. pack your track. back up. go again.

One thing I learned snowheeling is that when you get to a drift or virgin snow, the front axle has to work through the hard part leaving an easy trail for the back tires. So the backs get "impatient" and go sideways out of the gooves while the fronts chew ahead. Once the back tires are out of the front tire's tracks, you are pushing 4 tires in deep snow and you get stuck. So that technique you learned works in these situations too.

Bump into the drift with some momentum until the backs start to spin and get out of the groove the fronts have packed down. Stop. Backup. bump the drift again...keep the backs in the packed down tracks. Make good straight tracks.

Now if you have a fire breathing v8 and 44" swampers, just hold it on the floor and fling ALL of the snow off the trail. 

Getting on top of bottomless powder is cool and easier than bashing through it. Once, aired down on 37x12.5s, double low in the 4 runner, I was crawling the last drift just above treeline. doin' just fine at idle in 244:1 low range. I heard my friend call on the radio that he was stuck behind me. So I clutched it to talk to him on the radio. I simply let the clutch out, broke the crust, sunk and got stuck with a single spindly tree 10' farther out than my winch cable reached. I shouldn't have stopped. That's all it took.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2017 at 3:26am
Remember too that there's lots of different kinds of snow.  If it's old snow and the sun has melted the top 6" down to a solid crust, the snow underneath is probably now tiny ice balls.  I once got in trouble trying to climb a hill (just a dirt road normally) covered in ice-ball "snow".  Took me 2-1/2 hours to climb 100 yards in that.  That was not a pleasant day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2017 at 5:15am
My neighbor had an automatic locker in the rear of his CJ7 and did not like it at all on the street. Fine off road. He pulled it out and we put in an Elocker front and rear. Problem solved.
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