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lower 90 degree collant ell

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dclear View Drop Down
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    Posted: 25 Dec. 2006 at 5:15am
Ny 46 has what might be an  unusual coolant ell at the bottom of the block to radiator tank. It has a 3/8" galvanized pipe "ell" brazed right before the corner to tap off hot water for the heater [or maybe return cooled water to the tank, I'm not sure--probably the latter because the hot side tap seems to be that valve controlled tap on the front of the head.
 
Sean has some pictures of it--I am the wrong format to post here--and says he will be converting and posting it one of these days.  He seemed interested in the brazing feature.  It is clearly the best weld on the whole vehicle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec. 2006 at 7:18am
Dels lower rad pipe w/heater hose fitting:

Group 35-18 - HEATER
# 640748  TUBE, radiator water outlet connecting and heater FITTING, assembly

    

    

Some installations from other 2A's.  This first one looks like Dels:

    

This one looks home-brew, or dealer.  Heater hose feeds over the block to passenger side:

    

Another, probably DIY or dealer, the parts list don't specify a shut-off valve on the lower rad. pipe.

    

    

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dclear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec. 2006 at 5:38pm
I have just "modified" my lower radiator ell by  reinforcing the rotted ends with some exhaust pipe I bought from a local neighborhood muffler shop.  It was not cheap--about 5 bucks a foot--but it does seem to be a thicker gauge metal than jeep used.  The inside diameter was not quite small enough to fit tightly over the degraded ends, so I sawed about 1/4" out of the 3" pieces I used to reinforce the ends and  squeezed  joints together with hose clamps prior to welding the seam.  I then used JB weld liberallky to give the slip sleeve a base over the corroded ends.  I tested the new slightly larger diameter carefully and found that a hose is flexible enough to slip on over the slightly larger diameter of the resulting inlet and outlet.
I think electrical conduit might be a good size match, but its walls are much thinner than exhaust pipe--much closer to "factory" gauge, I'd guess.   By the way--I have a piece left over that will "do" for the metal pipe insert between the head and the top of the radiator.  Anyone know the exact length of that piece?  I'm can reduce its diameter and "go with it" painted black and all and hope I don't get caught by the perfection police. 
 
Now all I have to do is wait till spring to see if JB Weld will hold up under the heat ranges of the cooling system--it's specs seem to suggest it will--and the pressure--again, it's specs seem to suggest it will--and the chemicals--no news here.
 
I will be keeping careful watch on this thing this coming summer, and will let you all know.  I'm not sure I would want to do this with a daily driver, but with a parade/show/duffer fun vehicle, it might just work.
 
If Sean can fix springs with JB weld, and others cracked blocks around the distributor, why can't I fix a low-pressure leak area with the same stuff?
 
There may be an answer--but we may never know it [the chemicals might be the joker in the deck]
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2007 at 2:10pm
i will try to get pics, but 195769 has this bung in the tube, and inserted into the bung is a petcock for draining the radiator..low
45 #10033 ACM #47
45 #10163 ACM #188
57 CJ5    Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2007 at 3:55pm
Low:

The radiator already has a petcock in the lower left tube.  We're referring to the coupling tube that fits between radiator & water pump.  You've got a petcock in that too?

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2007 at 4:32pm
like duh!!! what the ell was i thinking, yes sean, i was referring to the actual drain, not realizing the 90 degree was a tube by itself..sorry..i shall remove my posts.. do i feel like a heel..lol
45 #10033 ACM #47
45 #10163 ACM #188
57 CJ5    Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2007 at 4:58pm
"what the ell?"  <- I like that! Big%20smile

Don't sweat it, we've all made silly mistakes here at some time, that's how we're larnin!  I'm still trying to figure out all the strange names Willys called their parts.

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dclear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2007 at 5:32pm
Hey, Low--
 
That's two of us!  Simple things get past me real quick.  It's the complex ones that I am real good at--at least I think so--or thought so.  I'll let you know how the bleeding project comes out.
 
Would you believe I checked all the fittings today and actually found one that I had neglected to tighten?  Not possible, you say.
 
I have proof.
 
DOH
 
 


Edited by dclear - 05 Jan. 2007 at 5:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dclear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2007 at 5:39pm
It's kind of odd, Sean, but that turn-off tap you show on one of the lower ell pictures you posted a few days ago really looks a lot like the turn-off tap that is on the rear right corner of the head on my rig.  Suppose taps were an "off the shelf" item a dealer would likely have access to?  I also think that barazing weld has the same characteristics of the pipe tap from mine.  I suppose it would stop water from circulating, but wouldn't some hot water keep getting the the heater core all the time.  Not fun on a real hot day.  On yet another hand, it is pointing the "wrong" way for logical access to the heater core input.
 
del
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2007 at 8:14am
Del:
Quote Suppose taps were an "off the shelf" item a dealer would likely have access to?
The shut-off valve was part of the option kt, and was installed at the back of the head.  Can't say if the one in the pipe is the exact same part though.  That was probably DIY.

Quote I suppose it would stop water from circulating, but wouldn't some hot water keep getting the the heater core all the time.
Seems to me that if it wasn't circulating, the heater core would remain at ambient.  The MB heater DID use a shutoff at both ends though.  Who knows.

Sean
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