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Lower Transfer Case Gears |
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Jw60 
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Joined: 17 Jan. 2018 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 129 |
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 Posted: 06 Mar. 2021 at 3:22am |
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There is a "kit" when you add a PTO onto the Overdrive that has the spacer for the case and a "drive sprocket" for the guts to work that replaces a metal spacer on the Overdrive shaft.
My theory is if your gears are short enough of a hub you can use the same design "drive sprocket" behind it and as long as the intermediate gear does not contact the sprocket all is well. By no means is it as strong as a dana 20 output but it's surely enough for a PTO winch or pump. Edited by Jw60 - 06 Mar. 2021 at 3:26am |
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Joe Friday
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Posted: 06 Mar. 2021 at 8:05am |
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Jeff brainstormed this in the beginning. With an overdrive, the transmission output gear is removed, and a set of planetary gears on a shaft replace the output gear. those planetary gears run inside the bowl gear, and the outer gear of the bowl gear drives the intermediate gear in the transfer case.
The PTO gear you describe is not only too weak, but it connects the wrong parts. (not to mention the transmission output shaft is too short to accommodate it). I've got a scrap overdrive at home I'm eventually going to cut in half to demonstrate that,
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jpet
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Posted: 06 Mar. 2021 at 10:33am |
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I get it now, you are talking about adding a separate cog or clutch after the input gear. That was discussed here in page 11:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/lower-transfer-case-gears_topic47516_post490337.html#490337 I am doing that for Stev. |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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duffer
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Joined: 02 Feb. 2012 Location: Bozeman, MT Status: Offline Points: 1086 |
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Posted: 06 Mar. 2021 at 9:15pm |
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If someone needs a 18-5-7 intermediate gear for this, I have at least one extra that isn't chipped up I can send Jeff on Monday. I also have several of the 18-8-17 sliding gears.
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1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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Jw60
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Posted: 07 Mar. 2021 at 4:25am |
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Sorry guys I guess I missed all of page 11.
 I can't wait to see the guys running the super gears this spring. I'll be that guy with the v6 and not enough crawl breaking stuff and overheating.
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Stev
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Posted: 09 Mar. 2021 at 9:14pm |
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I need to order a rebuild kit for this Dana 18 project - But not 100% sure what to order.
Here is what I have: I have the guts (good condition gears) from a 1 1/8" shaft intermediate gear box. I sent the 1 1/8" intermediate gear to JPet for machining and magic. I have a early Dana 20 large hole transfer case with a 1 1/4" intermediate shaft that I plan to use to build a Dana 18 lower gear twin stick box with a parking brake. So, I think I need to order: Dana 18 1 1/8" seals & small parts kit and a new 1 1/8" intermediate shaft - Correct? (Jeff is making a set of bushings so the 1 1/8 shaft will fit into the 1 1/4" case). Sorry if this causes more questions or confusion. |
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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oldtime
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Posted: 09 Mar. 2021 at 10:09pm |
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Dana 18 @ 1/1/8” shaft vs. 1-1/4” shaft.
First off there will be no difference in parts or kits used excepting the intermediate shaft diameter itself and the intermediate bearings. If you use a tapered bearing kit then only the shaft diameter is different. Nothing else. Unless you already have a shaft there is no reason not to buy a 1-1/4” diameter shaft. After all the big hole case will mandate that you use a 1-1/4” diameter intermediate shaft. Buy a 1-1/4” diameter intermediate shaft and you do not need any improvised shaft bushings. You can buy an AA taper shaft kit or use standard 1-1/4” intermediate shaft and rollers (qty.48). I should also add that excepting MB’s /GPW’s all D18 and D20 intermediate gear bores are the same inside diameter. This greatly simplifies gear and shaft interchange.
Edited by oldtime - 09 Mar. 2021 at 10:55pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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oldtime
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Posted: 09 Mar. 2021 at 10:34pm |
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To complicate things a tad more note that the later manufactured 1-1/4” shafts were machined to accept an additional “o” ring which is located where the shaft enters the side of case.
That added “o” ring is of no consequence. The neoprene “o” ring typically shears off when being installed and silicone or better yet Permatex gear lube sealer just works better anyway.
Edited by oldtime - 09 Mar. 2021 at 10:35pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Bob W
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Posted: 09 Mar. 2021 at 11:44pm |
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Agreeing with oldtime, use a 1-1/4" intermediate shaft in a 1-1/4" case. No need for bushings. Both intermediate gears have the same bore. The difference is in the size of the needle bearings.
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Stev
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Posted: 10 Mar. 2021 at 1:06pm |
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Very helpful information. Thanks!
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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duffer
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Posted: 11 Mar. 2021 at 3:28pm |
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I'm more than a little skeptical of the quality of available rebuild kits these days. I am using the gaskets from one but sourced new Timken bearings from Denny's Driveshafts and Summit, and am using doubled SKF/CR 15655 seals (NAPA) both front and back. Those doubled seals work well but you can not use the felt seals with them.
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1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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Stev
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Posted: 25 Mar. 2021 at 8:36pm |
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It is great to see that Bob W. pictures are back on this thread for reference!
Thinking about cutting the case using Bob's 6.5"paper gear concept and making the hole .813 wide plus .085ish side clearance on the hole. Just have to put the hole in the correct location. The cover looks like could be made out of cutting the correct shape from a section of 1/4" thick square tube stock to make something similar to what JPet did for a cover. Not going to rush into the case cutting - just pondering it.
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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jpet
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Posted: 07 Apr. 2021 at 2:38pm |
 For those following, I broke three teeth half off. No idea how or when it happened. I just went to make a random inspection and they were broken off. I just know it happened here in Moab. I haven’t had a chance to analyze it. |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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Barry S
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Posted: 07 Apr. 2021 at 2:47pm |
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Hopefully you have a spare with you.
-Barry
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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jpet
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Posted: 07 Apr. 2021 at 2:52pm |
No, I found the parts to rebuild a stock big hole d18 The other two gears look fine. The pinion is the only gear with bad teeth. Edited by jpet - 07 Apr. 2021 at 2:54pm |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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Barry S
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Posted: 07 Apr. 2021 at 4:12pm |
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Great! That will keep you wheeling out there. Have fun!!
We're making progress on this end. My brother Ron made a Solid Works drawing based on your specs for a test fit gear to cut the case. Then he printed it out and machined it to exact size. We're planning to make one with a 1 1/4" bore also. Should be cutting the case soon. -Barry    |
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Bob W
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Posted: 07 Apr. 2021 at 6:33pm |
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The problem I found with using a gear simulator like that is - being a full round gear it wont even fit into the case until you have the hole and clearance grinding completed. I was thinking that making a "flag" shaped simulator might be better. The flag would be just a thin cross section of the gear. The flag style will fit into the case, with the flag sticking out the pan side, before any modifications are done to the case. Then turn the flag around until it hits something and begin grinding and cutting until the flag will rotate 360 degrees without touching anything. Grinding and cutting could be done without even removing the simulator.
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Barry S
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Posted: 07 Apr. 2021 at 7:00pm |
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Hi Bob, Thanks to your pictures I saw that would be the case. I liked your idea of the cardboard disk with a section cut out to miss. We are planning to do the same thing - cut a section from the disk that will allow installing it that will also show the contact point on the inside of the case when rotated. If this works out we figure guys on the page can pass them around.
-Barry
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Barry S wrote: