Lower Transfer Case Gears

You're exactly right Bob. stev tried a Novak pan with Jeff's gears and it would not clear the wider intermediate gear and could not be modified(at least easily). It would be nice to have the extra oil capacity though. On mine, the stock pan cleared the new intermediate gear just fine after a little cave man heat-N-beat body work and a socket head bolt in that spot. I just need to find a pan that is not dented in on the bottom and full of rust holes! LOL

-Barry

1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB 413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487

Thanks Bob! I have one more pan that might be usable - if not I may be in touch.

-Barry

1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB 413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487

In case anyone what’s an update. I’ve sent out 5 sets of gears. 3 sets are installed and in action.

I’ve decided to make some sets from 9310. One set for myself, and one for duffer. 9310 is a superior metal that does not “breaks” as easy. The down side is that it is twice as expensive. All steel is high now, but this is super high. 9310 is used in heavy duty gears and racing so I read.

Heat treating has been slow. They wait for a “load” or parts to accumulate before they run them to keep the cost down.

Hopefully in the coming weeks I will be visiting a company about purchasing my own hobber. He has a copy of my drawings and has agreed to set my job up, run it, and train me. So far it’s all talk but it sounds promising. If I get this machine, The idea is to not only do transfercase gears but also axle shafts or whatever.

If anyone is interested in these gears, you may shoot me a PM to discuss. I might be making a large investment soon.

Edited by jpet - 01 Nov. 2021 at 9:24pm

CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"

I did notice that no gears can overcome slick mud. LOL

I also noticed that the M151 seems about a capable as a flat fender.

Keep up the good work Jeff.

1946 CJ2A 14098

jpet wrote:

In case anyone what’s an update. I’ve sent out 5 sets of gears. 3 sets are installed and in action.

Actually it’s now 4 sets in action!

Putting in the break in miles now. No leaks! Which is a first for me!

I don’t have a lot of pictures, but I took this crappy pic before installing the rear driveline:

Stev wrote:

Roostre -Nice work!

Did you modify the aluminum cover pictured about? If so how?

I used a small file sander to thin out the area where the gear would hit. Lots of trial an error.

It may be a bit on the thin side for some. It would be super easy to have the CNC that makes these modified so the “bolt wells” were smaller. That would use the same amount of material, and allow the inside to be machined with a full thickness wall that clears larger gears.

Edited by Roostre - 12 Nov. 2021 at 10:35am

Put about 60 miles on the gears today. They are as quiet as the old ones. This transfer case has always been a quiet one. I've owned a few that really cried loud. One difference in our build is we used the Novak shaft and roller bearings that were already in it.

I'd like to thank Jeff again for making these. Apologies for not getting them installed and tested as soon as I had hoped. Also thanks to everyone that posted pictures and write ups of their gear change. I spent a great deal of time reading and re-reading these to make sure I was not messing up.

I made a little video from today's adventures. There are a few clips in here that really show how well the low gears work. This is my wife's Willys, so she drives it. She has even crawled under it and gotten greasy with it a few times. She likes that it feels so much safer now when descending hills.

https://youtu.be/j6cJigiUg8Y

Edited by Roostre - 13 Nov. 2021 at 9:11pm

I’m need some Tig welding advise. I have a T18 transfer case and I need the cover over the gears welded to the case. The cover is made of mild metal. And the case is cast. I have a guy that has a AC Tig welder but he has never welded cast. What filler rod should he use?

Casting must be as clean as possible.

And by all means DO NOT use brake cleaner on it.

Phosgene gas can take a man out with a tiny whiff.

TIG Machine must be DC straight polarity.

Amperage depends a lot on your cover thickness.

Mild steel filler rod should work or rod containing nickel will work best if you can find some.

Edit: The stainless rods contain some nickel, but not so much however the chromium content is not really going help in the fusion process.

I expect that’s why Jeff’s welder tried it using stainless rod due to it’s added nickel content.

The casting is a cast steel and not cast cast iron.

So that implies the already has some carbon content.

One could also be arc welded using AC current and 55% nickel rods. However a good TIG weld should make a much nicer looking bead.

Edited by oldtime - 09 Dec. 2021 at 10:50am

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts