Lower Transfer Case Gears |
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Barry S
Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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You're exactly right Bob. stev tried a Novak pan with Jeff's gears and it would not clear the wider intermediate gear and could not be modified(at least easily). It would be nice to have the extra oil capacity though. On mine, the stock pan cleared the new intermediate gear just fine after a little cave man heat-N-beat body work and a socket head bolt in that spot. I just need to find a pan that is not dented in on the bottom and full of rust holes!
-Barry
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Bob W
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 08 Aug. 2005 Location: Monticello, NY Status: Offline Points: 1693 |
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Barry,
I'm sure I have an extra stock pan that you can have. |
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Barry S
Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 664 |
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Thanks Bob! I have one more pan that might be usable - if not I may be in touch.
-Barry
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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Here is a good example of what these gears are like in an otherwise stock CJ2A with T90-A transmission (check out 5:43 mark):
This is a direct link to 5:43: https://youtu.be/_hTjZ5Io3c8?t=343 Sounds like Shaun is in the gas slightly so they would even be slower than that at idle. Edited by jpet - 01 Nov. 2021 at 11:34am |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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In case anyone what’s an update. I’ve sent out 5 sets of gears. 3 sets are installed and in action.
I’ve decided to make some sets from 9310. One set for myself, and one for duffer. 9310 is a superior metal that does not “breaks” as easy. The down side is that it is twice as expensive. All steel is high now, but this is super high. 9310 is used in heavy duty gears and racing so I read. Heat treating has been slow. They wait for a “load” or parts to accumulate before they run them to keep the cost down. Hopefully in the coming weeks I will be visiting a company about purchasing my own hobber. He has a copy of my drawings and has agreed to set my job up, run it, and train me. So far it’s all talk but it sounds promising. If I get this machine, The idea is to not only do transfercase gears but also axle shafts or whatever. If anyone is interested in these gears, you may shoot me a PM to discuss. I might be making a large investment soon. Edited by jpet - 01 Nov. 2021 at 9:24pm |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4186 |
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13:15 and 21:20 are also good views of the low gears in action albeit open/open.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Bill2A
Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2018 Location: Fort Worth, Tex Status: Offline Points: 517 |
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I did notice that no gears can overcome slick mud.
I also noticed that the M151 seems about a capable as a flat fender. Keep up the good work Jeff.
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1946 CJ2A 14098
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391 |
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"Hopefully in the conking weeks I will be visiting a company about purchasing my own hobber. "
Wow - that would be amazing. Possible products: Rear full floating 10 /19 spline axles for a Dana 41/44 would be nice to enable lockouts or drive flanges on the rear axle. The next step would be rear slid locker for a Dana 41/44 that would allow the driver to have spool or open rear differential on the fly. Edited by Stev - 01 Nov. 2021 at 4:17pm |
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Roostre
Member Joined: 06 Feb. 2021 Location: Alpine, Ut Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Actually it’s now 4 sets in action! Putting in the break in miles now. No leaks! Which is a first for me! I don’t have a lot of pictures, but I took this crappy pic before installing the rear driveline: |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391 |
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Roostre -Nice work!
Did you modify the aluminum cover pictured about? If so how?
Edited by Stev - 12 Nov. 2021 at 10:20am |
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Roostre
Member Joined: 06 Feb. 2021 Location: Alpine, Ut Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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I used a small file sander to thin out the area where the gear would hit. Lots of trial an error. It may be a bit on the thin side for some. It would be super easy to have the CNC that makes these modified so the “bolt wells” were smaller. That would use the same amount of material, and allow the inside to be machined with a full thickness wall that clears larger gears. Edited by Roostre - 12 Nov. 2021 at 10:35am |
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Nick_
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 05 May 2014 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1138 |
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That's great to hear Jeff. If we had a trustworthy aftermarket parts supplier (gears, axle kits, etc), I can only imagine how many people would start building super stock flatties. Advertising on social media could gain support from the younger crowd as well. I'm excited to watch your future endeavors.
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Roostre
Member Joined: 06 Feb. 2021 Location: Alpine, Ut Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Put about 60 miles on the gears today. They are as quiet as the old ones. This transfer case has always been a quiet one. I've owned a few that really cried loud. One difference in our build is we used the Novak shaft and roller bearings that were already in it.
I'd like to thank Jeff again for making these. Apologies for not getting them installed and tested as soon as I had hoped. Also thanks to everyone that posted pictures and write ups of their gear change. I spent a great deal of time reading and re-reading these to make sure I was not messing up. I made a little video from today's adventures. There are a few clips in here that really show how well the low gears work. This is my wife's Willys, so she drives it. She has even crawled under it and gotten greasy with it a few times. She likes that it feels so much safer now when descending hills. Edited by Roostre - 13 Nov. 2021 at 9:11pm |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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Cmercier
Member Joined: 22 Jan. 2020 Location: Du Quoin IL Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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I’m need some Tig welding advise. I have a T18 transfer case and I need the cover over the gears welded to the case. The cover is made of mild metal. And the case is cast. I have a guy that has a AC Tig welder but he has never welded cast. What filler rod should he use?
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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I don’t know if this is the right way or not but I did two of them and it worked. (Actually, I did one and our welder did the other. )
Tig weld with 1/16” stainless rod. 80 amps. I preheated my case to 500 deg with a rose bud. Owen, (the welder) did not. There is probably an expert here who knows a better way. Mine both work so I’m happy. |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4186 |
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Casting must be as clean as possible.
And by all means DO NOT use brake cleaner on it. Phosgene gas can take a man out with a tiny whiff. TIG Machine must be DC straight polarity. Amperage depends a lot on your cover thickness. Mild steel filler rod should work or rod containing nickel will work best if you can find some. Edit: The stainless rods contain some nickel, but not so much however the chromium content is not really going help in the fusion process. I expect that’s why Jeff’s welder tried it using stainless rod due to it’s added nickel content. The casting is a cast steel and not cast cast iron. So that implies the already has some carbon content. One could also be arc welded using AC current and 55% nickel rods. However a good TIG weld should make a much nicer looking bead.
Edited by oldtime - 09 Dec. 2021 at 10:50am |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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We used stainless because that’s what we had. No more science than that
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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