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Make Your Own Canvas Top

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jpet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Make Your Own Canvas Top
    Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 6:45am

I'm ready to start posting some of my work in MCP now.  As I collect data on original canvas I will post it in "Cavas Data" but since this new data is on reproduction, I'm ready to start this new thread.

This thread will be on making a reproduction canvas.  These drawings are not to be taken as an EXACT duplicate to the original.  They are a close guestimation based on the data I have collected in the thread "Canvas Data".  Some of these dimensions are assumptions on my part.  I am also making a prototype which I will demonstrate.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Front Roof:

 

 

These drawings can be used as patterns to make a front roof that looks like this:

The lighting in my garage is not too good but this color is olive drab. (see next pic)

 

To make this canvas I borrowed an ordinary sewing machine but it is an old Singer so it is well made.  I put a canvas sewing needle in it also.

 

The material is an olive drab cotton duck material that I got from a fabric store chain.  This is just a prototype.  I want to get plenty of practice before I start sewing on my mil-spec material. The binding is a cotton webbing from TriVantage.  It is not original but it is the same binding that NewLife, Beachwood, and Weebee webbing use.  It is 1" wide.  I had to fold the tape in half and iron it to use it.

 

Edit:  This binding (or webbing) meets mil-spec MIL-T-43566 type 1 class 3.  The color is called Olive drab 7
 
I also got CS fasteners locally.  they were chrome but I painted them black.  The turn button fasteners are not the original style, i.e. rivet style, but since this is just a prototype, I decided to use them because I can get them locally.

 

First thing I did was preshrink each piece of fabric twice by soaking it and then drying it on high.  Then I cut each piece out using a graph board (or whatever you call it).

 

Each flap is 2 ply.  This flap is 3" wide so I cut out a piece 6" wide, folded it over and then ironed it.  Same with the drip flaps and hold down flaps.  to make the radii I used plates  and bottles around the kitchen, laid them on the fabric and traced around with a pencil.  After I cut the patterns out, I stitched around the edges, sewed the binding on and then installed fasteners.  Since the binding is 1" flat, I had to fold  it in half and iron it so that I could wrap it around the canvas and sew it.

Notice I folded the binding over like the original examples in "Canvas Data"

 

Before I made the flaps, I made the roof pieces:

 

After washing drying, and again washing and drying the fabric, I cut it out and then sewed a french seam down the middle.  The seam is optional.  Sean's does not have a seam and Roger's does.  I am trying to duplicate Roger's since his canvas is  not the rubber backed canvas and his will be easier to duplicate.  I would recommend making the larger pieces first (roof pieces).  If you screw one up, you can always cut the smaller pieces out of the roof pieces.  If you make the flaps and smaller pieces first and then screw up a large roof piece, the material will just be waisted.

 
So, first make the roof pieces according to this pattern:
Then make the rear panel and top flap:
Then make the flaps:

Drip flap

Hold down flap

Then sew the rear panel to the roof and bind it:
Then sew on the flaps:

Front roof assembly (top side)

Of course don't forget to install the fasteners and grommets.  I knocked out the holes for the grommets as I went but waited to install them till after my sewing was done.  On the top flap, I knocked out the grommet holes, then I sewed the flap to the roof, then I installed the grommets, then I used the grommet locations to help me locate the turn button fasteners in the roof:

 
 
 
Next... Put the top on General Willys:
 
 
I forgot to mention that I made a pocket in the corners by folding the canvas and sewing it under the binding:
 
Drip Flap:
 
I know that this turn button fastener is not correct but like I said, this is a prototype.
 
sculpted rear panel:
 
and hold down flaps:
 
Please forgive the sewing.  I have never sewn before but I'm getting better.  All in all I'm pretty happy with what I have.  the canvas fits loosly but can be pulled tight when the rear roof is attached.
 
 
If the canvas were to shrink some, the straps in the rear canvas can be loosened.
 
Anyway as I said, this is really a test to make sure that my patterns are correct.  So if you used the patterns that I have posted, you front roof will look like this.
Now I will start on the rear roof.
 
Edit:  Constructive criticism and suggestions are welcome


Edited by jpet - 02 Nov. 2012 at 12:18pm
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hillbilly21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 9:00am
 That really looks good !!!  ClapClapClapClap


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Harriet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 9:08am
I take my hat off to you Jeff, that's great.
The step by step sewing guide will be really useful too.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vince Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 10:36am
Jeff
 
It looks absolutely superb in every way. I'd like my 2A to be as correct as realistically possible, but given the dearth of anything not MB/GPW related here in the UK, and the costs of (buying/shipping/import duty) sourcing the correct top from the US, I seriously thought I'd have to go down the MB top bows/hood route. What you're doing though at least gives me a chance of doing it how I would really like...
 
But boy, do I shake in fear at the thought of doing any cutting and sewing accurately! My daughters were given old sewing machines my relatives (so they could practice for school design projects), and I couldn't even work out how to thread the bobbins...
 
Maybe Harriet and I could set up a 2A canvas sewing summer school here in the UK (complete with a large pot of coffee and an even bigger swear-box in the corner)...?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russnj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 12:40pm
Wow! Great work! Matt is flying back now as we speak! He can't take missing out on all of the sewing!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 12:58pm
Jeff,
Awesome work AGAIN!!Thumbs UpThumbs UpClapClap
 
You never stop suprise us with your skills.
 
Roger
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 1:29pm
Great job!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 1:32pm
Originally posted by Vince Vince wrote:

 But boy, do I shake in fear at the thought of doing any cutting and sewing accurately!
 
Vince,
 
You CAN do it!  Before this project I had never threaded a bobbin either.  I did not know how to use a sewing machine, and the most sewing that I did was a loose button.  If you have a way to print the drawings out full scale, you can use them as a template.  If you can't print them to scale, you can print portions of them out or you can do like I did and just grab a yard stick and some tupperware lids and draw out the parts with a pencil.  Then just cut on the line.
 
If you have any questions, post up and I'll answer them. (may not be the right answer but your top will look like the pictures or better)


Edited by jpet - 08 Feb. 2009 at 1:34pm
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 1:41pm
One thing that I forgot to mention.
 
I did not install the fasteners that go int the rear panel where the half cab curtain attaches.  I thought I'd wait until I design, or "reverse" design the half cab curtain before I put them in just in case I discover something odd.
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russnj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 3:07pm
Ok, i'll take a full set in black for my 2A and a full set in black for my CJ5!

Thanks!
Russ

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 3:30pm

I think Russ is saying that, after you (jpet) complete your prototype, he wants to be your production facility and will be taking orders from the members here! LOL

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 3:51pm
Awesome Jeff!  Are you going give up machinist and start "Top Canvas Inc"? Wink

Quote The binding is a cotton webbing from TriVantage.  It is not original but it is the same binding that NewLife, Beachwood, and Weebee webbing use.  It is 1" wide.  I had to fold the tape in half and iron it to use it.
For the final product, you'd be better off using a herring-bone tape.  It's "slinkier" and goes around corners better.

For final production, they have an attachment for feeding & folding the tape too.

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 4:03pm
...........When do you sleep and how much?.........Stern Smile
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkreutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 4:22pm
Nice work Jeff, almost sorry I just ordered mine from New Life. (almost, I've tried sewing, not my thingLOL)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 4:59pm
Where did you find the CS fasteners for your windsheid frame?Ace hardware has them,but they want $6.00 eachShocked
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jus*Jack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 6:08pm
"As Usual", Jeff! <g> Looking great! 

Two questions: 

Can you describe (simply) a "French seam" as you used in the middle of the main panel?

How did you "knock out" for the C/S fasteners? Did you purchase the punch for that purpose, or do it some other way? (I know that Matt said that he wouldn't have gotten through his Reedikinis, had he not purchased the punch!)

Congrats!
Seeya!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 7:08pm
It's basically a seam where the raw edge is inside the seam.
http://www.colettepatterns.com/blog/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-how-to-create-a-french-seam
(Googling french seam will give numerous other examples)
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2009 at 7:15pm
Thanks everyone.
 
Originally posted by sean sean wrote:

For the final product, you'd be better off using a herring-bone tape.  It's "slinkier" and goes around corners better.
I can get Type II herringbone twill tape but I've only found one place that I can get it in olive drab and I have to buy 1000 yards minimum.  I may have to consider buying "natural" herringbone and dying it.
Quote
For final production, they have an attachment for feeding & folding the tape too.
Really........ can you post a link!
 
Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

...........When do you sleep and how much?.........Stern Smile
I'm asleep right now.
Originally posted by bkreutz bkreutz wrote:

Nice work Jeff, almost sorry I just ordered mine from New Life. (almost, I've tried sewing, not my thingLOL)
Gale,
You are smart!  Don't be like me.  NewLife makes a better product than this at a reasonable price. ($1000)  When I started this project, I was spooked by stories of sending my doors off to have canvas put on them and waiting over a year and can't get in contact with anybody.  Now it looks like NewLife is in full swing again and getting alot of work done.  If Mona would have been as available when I started this project as she is now, I would have never started.  I still considered dropping this project and getting in line at NewLife but I don't like to leave a project undone.  Besides, If I have NewLife make it, I don't learn nuthin' and with this prototype I want to test how good these spray on waterproofing products work.
 
Originally posted by woody woody wrote:

Where did you find the CS fasteners for your windsheid frame?Ace hardware has them,but they want $6.00 eachShocked
We had a discussion on this earlier:
In a nutshell you can get them from odcloth.com (weebee webbing)
The trouble is finding them in black however,
Not sure how much they are.  You can also get them from dotfastenersdirect.com fairly inexpensive but you have to buy 100.  I got mine from trader_reed when I bought my Reedikini.  I believe that he got them from dotfastenersdirect.  You can probably get 10 guys to go in on some.
Originally posted by Hamhog (from Turn Top Studs) Hamhog (from Turn Top Studs) wrote:

The studs I got from Jungle Jims are black.  They are the same part number, one is followed with an A and one with B.  They are the same except for the screw size.  I bought the larger, like I read on another post, it's easy to make a hole bigger.  Walcks sell them too I believe. 
 
Whew......
 
Originally posted by Jus*Jack Jus*Jack wrote:

Can you describe (simply) a "French seam" as you used in the middle of the main panel?
I don't know if "french" seam is the correct name for it but that's what my mom calls it .
Look down the side of your pants leg on a pair of jeans (vertical seam)  That's the seam
 
I actually cheated on mine.  I did not cut two pieces of fabric, I used one and just folded it like this:
 
This way it looks like a french seam but it is thinner so that I can  sew it easier.  this seam has to be sewn to the rear panel which is 2 plys thick and the roof has another ply here so at that point I would have to sew through 7 plys!  Pretty thick.
 
Quote
How did you "knock out" for the C/S fasteners? Did you purchase the punch for that purpose, or do it some other way? (I know that Matt said that he wouldn't have gotten through his Reedikinis, had he not purchased the punch!)
 
I purchased the tool as well per Matt's advice
 
McMaster Carr.  $40 bucks maybe?
 
Back to what Gale was saying about getting one from New Life.  Usually I like making things that I can't buy (like the bows at the time).  I am continuing with the project because there is a certain pride in making something yourself and it's the data collection that is fun for me.  Not just on the original tops but where the research leads to. (how to sew, where to buy stuff, mil-specs ...)  Just want to say that I'm not doing this because I think I'm going to save alot of money or that I can do a better job than the professionals.
 
Russ is right.  I should be working on a CJ5 top.  I don't think you can buy those.
In the back of my mind I think that I would like to make a CJ1/CJ2 top.  Alot of this data can be transfered to that.  Yes, I obviously don't need one but I think the research would be fun.


Edited by jpet - 08 Feb. 2009 at 7:20pm
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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