Mazda Rotary Wankel Swap Willys

I see five spots on the cap and only four plus on side of block. How does the rotary work?

Jay

chasendeer wrote:

I see five spots on the cap and only four plus on side of block. How does the rotary work?

Jay

4 plugs 2 coils there are 6 connections on the cap.

Edited by Millennium falcon - 07 Feb. 2023 at 7:24am

I needed a change of pace so I moved onto a simple and fun part of this build... the shifter.

The car shifter is about 3" tall with a very heavy knob... Since I dont want to bend over to shift I had to lengthen it a little and also needed to angle it away from the driver and forward just a little bit. I Chucked it in the lathe and turned down a small nub. This part will get pressed into the extension and welded in place.

Turning down the tip to thread 3/8-24 for the knob

Ready to put together.

Done! Its still shorter than a traditional jeep shifter but these transmissions are designed very different and don't require nearly as much leverage as an old 3 and 4 speed. So i needed to find the sweet spot between comfort and not stressing the shifting components.

Here it is installed. Red Rover Parts Sponsored a really cool custom knob for this build.

I put the seat in before I welded it to make sure it was all good. Its comfy and shifts really nice!

Since it was warm enough to open the doors I got a shot of the exhaust from the rear.

Flatfender Ben wrote:

So awesome!! Clap

Thanks Ben!

I welded the heater hose back on to the radiator and plumbed it back to the heater. Once the fenders are on I will route them appropriately. This is where the rx7 heater hose attaches from the factory.

Im still using the inferno Cab heater and now it will work even better since the rotary runs hotter than an L134

I drilled and tapped the Thermostat housing for the Fitech temp sensor.

The EFI requires an O2 sensor. It came with a clamp on bung but I prefer the weld on variety.

Im using all the original Mazda clutch hydraulics to keep things simple and cheap.

After getting some inspiration from "47cj2a" I decided to mount the master right on the frame. It will get a skid plate and mud shield.

I was able to hit holes that were already on the frame, so it is truly "bolt on" no drilling or welding. The rx7 lines and fittings all fit and were the correct length.

I still need to make the clevis and adjustable rod.

The front end is back on and things should fly now!

I wish I had the skillset to fab, machine parts. My focus was wood, and I spent a career as a woodworker. All my machines and shop space are wood forcused.

Anyway, super interesting engine mod and I am pretty much wanting one myself.

1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.

47cj2a wrote:

I was looking at mine since everything is torn apart again for paint and fixing leaks. and noticed that my master sits an inch or so further up.

I cant remember if I measured the relation of the pivot point to the master cylinder rod from the Dakota I pulled most of my parts from as a reference though.

Looks like your making great progress on yours, I wish I had more time to finish mine up. Was hoping to take it to EJS this year but might have to take something else.

Thanks! I positioned mine where it is based on travel. I wanted it as low as possible while still getting full travel. I figured The lower it is the more leverage it will have which should make for a lighter pedal. And that also helped keep the pedal from hitting the master. But until I drive it this is all just in theory. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks again for your help!

1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible

hows the noise on that fuel pump/have you had a chance to run it?

mine is below the fuel tank, its a Bosch unit but its loud.

Edited by 47cj2a - 27 Feb. 2023 at 9:28am

'47 cj2a strewn about
'70 cj5
'98 tj a few things zip tied here and there
'93 Land Rover Defender 110 200TDI
'62 Scout 80 stock
'66 Coronet 2 dr post 426 Hemi 4spd
'68 M35 Multi fuel
'68 M416